Post your audio sytems!
- Thread starter Taco15
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GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
cjvictoria
Active Member
This one here would do well enough for me... fuck spending 500 bucks on something that I don't quite need as much as, say... gas? I'm comfortable with spending a lil less and getting less distortion, http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Amplifiers/GMSeries/GM-3300T?tab=B
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
LOL I have that amp. It's right next to me in my bedroom right now.
Taco15
I wear stretchy pants
i have to disagree with the alpine statement. I used to love the way they look. and dont get me wrong they sound good but a high volume the distorion is horrible. the more you turn it up the more muffled it sounds.
Its not my speakers either
i have JL C5 6.5 components up front with kicker 6x9 in the back. My Eclipse in my truck sounds so much better even when you turn the volume up. It gets louder not muffled.my next CDP is prolly going to be JVC or Pioneer. they have definitly stepped up there game in the past years. Eclipse is overrated now and not as user friendly.
with the right setup even american pro will sound good....
i have to disagree with the alpine statement. I used to love the way they look. and dont get me wrong they sound good but a high volume the distorion is horrible. the more you turn it up the more muffled it sounds.
Its not my speakers either
my next CDP is prolly going to be JVC or Pioneer. they have definitly stepped up there game in the past years. Eclipse is overrated now and not as user friendly.
with the right setup even american pro will sound good....
hmm i understand where you are coming from about alpine HU's.
problem is they require GOOD power. before i had my alpines hooked up through the tiny wiring from the car harness, at high volume i experienced clipping, distortion, and mosfet kicking in to shut down the radio. the reason is that they have built in amplifiers. the older units had an amp "dongle" that sat off the radio a few inches.
once i got smart, i always ran the switched power straight to the battery using the same wire gauge as coming from the radio, not the car harness. sound quality improved tenfold.
now when i install radios for friends, i do the same. make sure it is fused properly, of course.
Taco15
I wear stretchy pants
DAMN. I used to DB Drag with my 13w7 and 1000/1 in crx.
I got beat by a guy with another crx and 2 10'' solarbaric L7 and 2 mmatts amp. He hit 155+
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K2e2vin
Senior Member
There's s difference between SQ and SPL.
Some of the older Alpine HUs didn't have amps at all; it was just pre-amp outputs. TurboMirage's comment may explain the issue you were having. I personally run my components through another amp vs. using the internal amp.
IMO, Eclipse units are overpriced but what makes them so desirable is it allows you to tweak your system along with the higher voltage preamp outputs..
Some of the older Alpine HUs didn't have amps at all; it was just pre-amp outputs. TurboMirage's comment may explain the issue you were having. I personally run my components through another amp vs. using the internal amp.
IMO, Eclipse units are overpriced but what makes them so desirable is it allows you to tweak your system along with the higher voltage preamp outputs..
up until recently alpine had high-voltage preouts. now they no longer have the internal amplifier.
what one do you have taco?
Taco15
I wear stretchy pants
i think its the cd 6998 i think. I have the ipod control with it. I like the way it looks but it sucks when i have to turn it up only to 23. at 24 you can tell the audible difference, like really notice it.
t eh 2 boston 10's pound but not as loud as they should becuase i cant turn up. If i turn the bass up it overpowers the highs and mids alittle.
sorry guys but i like my system to be so loud and clear that you cant tell. the type that the bass is so loud but you cant tell becae the mids and highs are just as loud and clean with no distortion. thats what i'm working on with my s-10.
t eh 2 boston 10's pound but not as loud as they should becuase i cant turn up. If i turn the bass up it overpowers the highs and mids alittle.
sorry guys but i like my system to be so loud and clear that you cant tell. the type that the bass is so loud but you cant tell becae the mids and highs are just as loud and clean with no distortion. thats what i'm working on with my s-10.
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Do you see how it "says" 1200 watts. WTF? If you look you will se it only puts out 75 watts per channel (4 channels total) at 4ohm so thats 300 watts total...not 1200. Or it does 150X4 at 2ohm and thats 600 watts...still not 1200. It may be close to 600X2 bridged at 2ohm but thats runninng the amp hard and if you notice...it does not state that statistic.
ohm loads are like being in certain gears when driving. You can run in 4th gear at 70mph and have tons of power but we all know if we're driving down the highway...we should have it in 5th gear. 5th gear is like 4ohm and 4th gear is like 2ohm. it gets even more drastic if we're talking about 2ohm bridged vs 4ohm bridged. Amp runs hotter at lower ohm loads...it puts out more power but is working really effing hard. I run 2ohm stereo (b/c I only want one amp and it was 2 channel) but I have to sacrafice being able to adjust the fade (front to back). But I moved from 75X2 at 4ohm stereo to 150X2 at 2ohm stereo. Its split between 4 speakers so i get 75 clean watts per speaker. I have an old presicion power amp and they kick ass...hands down.
I would say you look for a JL audio amp....but its pricey and you will get true facts of watts....but its super clean watts....not some skewed statistic that makes you think you're gonna be bumpin'. Other Amps are fine too....but I say no to the Pioneer. For $500...and only 300 watts....thats like $1.66 per watt (clean watt not their stupid claim)
I, personally, don't like ANY amps made by companies that make head units. So I say no to the pioneer....its $500 and you can get many different amps for that price. A four channel is good for a few things. Its good to run mids/highs on the front channel and a sub on the rear...or to just run 4 mid-range speakers and get a seperate amp for your sub (if you so choose to)
And head unit watts are the biggest skewed statistic you will come accross with car audio
They say 30 watts X4 or whateva but thats at like a distortion level that many people's ear will begin to bleed. a car with distortion is worse for your ears then a clean set up at three times the volume.
They say 30 watts X4 or whateva but thats at like a distortion level that many people's ear will begin to bleed. a car with distortion is worse for your ears then a clean set up at three times the volume.
holy shit taco, my alpine head unit in my xterra is the same way... it pushes my kicker 6.5s, 6x9s and factory tweeters pretty damn loud, but i can only turn it up to 24, after that they break up and distort badly. but its still so loud that i havent bothered to add an amp for the mids/highs.
i had to use my eq and subwoofer controls and amp settings to basically kill all the bass to the surrounds and balance the sounds out with the sub.
Taco15
I wear stretchy pants
my headunit model was off. i looked at yesterday and now i forgot
if your looking for an amp. Alot of forums have quality amps for cheap. I actually was trying to sell my JL 1000/1 for $350 not too long ago. its just where to look. Alot of people dont care about quality as long as it makes it go boom and its cheap. When you try the real deal stuff you will see the difference.
of course you guys know i'm biased towards JL
if your looking for an amp. Alot of forums have quality amps for cheap. I actually was trying to sell my JL 1000/1 for $350 not too long ago. its just where to look. Alot of people dont care about quality as long as it makes it go boom and its cheap. When you try the real deal stuff you will see the difference.
of course you guys know i'm biased towards JL
