Potential Power: 3 Setups

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ExplicitSnow

Senior Member
Setup 1:
JDM B16 SiR2 P30 bottom end
USDM 98 GSR P72 head
DC 4-1 header
Tsudo catback
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
255lph fuel pump
450cc bluetop DSM injectors
8lb Flywheel
6 puck clutch
Y1 LSD B16 cable tranny
obd0-obd1 conversion with P28 OBD1 ECU w/ Hondata S100
AEM UEGO Wideband air/fuel controller

Setup 2:
USDM 98 GSR P72 bottom with Eagle H-Beam rods and SRP High Compression Pistons
USDM 98 GSR P72 head
DC 4-1 header
Tsudo catback
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
255lph fuel pump
450cc bluetop DSM injectors
8lb Flywheel
6 puck clutch
Y1 LSD B16 cable tranny
obd0-obd1 conversion with P28 OBD1 ECU w/ Hondata S100
AEM UEGO Wideband air/fuel controller

Setup 3:
B20Z bottom end
USDM 98 GSR P72 head
DC 4-1 header
Tsudo catback
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
255lph fuel pump
450cc bluetop DSM injectors
8lb Flywheel
6 puck clutch
Y1 LSD B16 cable tranny
obd0-obd1 conversion with P28 OBD1 ECU w/ Hondata S100
AEM UEGO Wideband air/fuel controller

curious to what kind of power numbers each of these setups are capable of with a nice tune by one of the houston tuners (st00pid most likely)
 
well i can't really give exact numbers but i can tell you you'd be better off with the second build, the b20vtec would probably get you around the same as a stock gsr, the p30block with a gsr head wouldn't get you a whole lot of more power over stock, the thing that'd be the best is the upgraded pistons for the second build it'd be the most powerful of the ones there (i'm assuming when you say high compression pistons you mean to get you into the 12:1 compression range)

by the way bigger fuel rails don't do much for you unless you're making something like 400-500 hp

it'll be a bitch to drive with the clutch/flywheel combo
 
tartymctang2357 said:
it'll be a bitch to drive with the clutch/flywheel combo
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i love the hard-to drive type clutches...really stiff...bairly let off like 1/4" and the car starts to pull...i just want to make some decent power and have good times on the street and a little better on the track...i dont really have time/nor a 2nd car to have the block redone in any way

oh yeah, someone else told me not to worry about the fuel rail, just add an adjustable fpr and pump
 
Yup, setup #2 is what I would go with- unless you can put high compression pistons and some forged rods into setup #3, and then you'll walk all over setup #2.
 
#3
just swap pistons and boom Serious torque & hp
plus it cheaper to put together
plus the b20 block is cheaper than the first two so why wouldn't you swap pistons and rods if your going to do it to #2?
 
I would say #2 also, but just like Blanco said you wont break 180 in either with a stock head.
 
alterdcreations said:
#3
just swap pistons and boom Serious torque & hp
plus it cheaper to put together
plus the b20 block is cheaper than the first two so why wouldn't you swap pistons and rods if your going to do it to #2?
Click to expand...

setup #2 with the h beam rods and high comp pistons is already put together...im buying it from a guy already done...thats why the pistons/rods are aftermarket in that setup
 
:shrug2:

I made 190whp under a stock head with high compression pistons, and 13:1 static was streetable before the cams.
 
Blanco said:
And how long did that engine last? :)
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It ran awesome until Jeff tuned it... then it died a nasty death.

Counterpoint- the B20/B16 setup I ran the first time got a good 45k miles until I overrevved it, and that was with 12.6:1 static compression.
 
I don't know how much timing was pulled- it was so long ago, and the first build was set up on a VAFC on top of a Mugen chip. This was before the Hondata days. The base timing was set at stock though.

As far as no higher than 12:1 on 93 octane, that is a general safe region to stay in- but you can go higher on 93 and still make even better power without compromising your timing. You just have to know a few tricks. :D

Yup, agreed on IB.
 
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