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problems with high compression swap... possibly tuning?

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by dustyb20, Nov 15, 2008.

  1. dustyb20

    dustyb20 New Member

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    Ok here is my problem, yesterday i went to pay a few bills... well i have a tendency with my setup (which is mentioned below) to sit for a moment or two and load up on fuel. Needless to say, i ended up sitting at a traffic light for about 7-10 minutes with an already warm car, took off and car was hesitant, or maybe i should say jumpy, as it acts when it tends to load up. I proceeded to clear it out a bit taching the car out 2nd thru 4th to about 6.5k rpm's, CAR DROVE FINE, hence my reasoning for thinking a fuel load up... well i went in paid my bill, come out and can't start the car. Fuel pump engages, everything comes on fine, whirls over and then BOOM followed by a white smoke coming from my INTAKE! backfire, sounds like it's coming mid exhaust... well i let the car sit a few hours had a buddy come pick me up. Later on i went back, removed plugs (which were BLACK black) manually turned crank to check timing, which is good, getting spark (which is evident), fuel pressure regulator functioning properly... so i decide to retard the timing a bit thru dizzy (thinking it may be bad fuel), to my astonishment, cranks up drive it home.

    Now this morning, thinking (from personal experience) possibly a distributor problem, since no clunking sounds or anything of the sort coming from the bottom end, removed valve cover and all valves retainers and such seem fine, placed on new dizzy (used same rotor button and cap though), new plugs (NGK iridium 4's), and REDID the timing (just because it looked about a half notch off (figured that might've been why when i retarded the timing it started no problem, possibly off a tooth or 2)... go to start it up again and same thing happens!!!!

    WHAT CAN I DO!?!?!?!

    now for my setup, this is all in a 93 civic coupe...
    B20b bottom end
    R-spec 84mm ITR replica pistons
    stock rods and crank
    B16a1 HEAD
    stock valvetrain
    aftermarket cam, stage 1 most likely but resemble GSR cam in markings and lobe
    AEM adjustable cam gears (tru-time)
    310cc precision injectors
    warlboro 255lph fuel pump
    ebay fuel pressure regulator
    AEM fuel rail
    stock b16 intake manifol w/ intake (no filter)
    type r 4-1 header replica with 3" coupler connected to straight pipe 2.5" exhaust with 40 series flowmaster muffler (no cat, no resinator)
    NGK iridium 4 plugs
    NGK 10.5mm wires
    95 GSR dizzy

    this setup was "street-tuned" on chrome, by a friend... has ran GREAT for last 6 months on 60 lbs thru the fuel pressure regulator... i have no intake filter on the car because mid summer when i put one on, it killed the actual preformance of my car... went from what i see being around 200whp atm, to feeling a lil less powerful then your stock b16...

    now with all this being said, new dizzy, plugs, and timing being adjusted, can ANYONE give me an idea of where i should try next, as well as can anyone tell me if the change in moisture of the air will cause this to happen... i know that atmospheric and barometric conditions can effect the preformance of an engine, especially one that's been altered... and the compression of my motor is right high at the moment. Maybe a fuel system flush, drop the gas tank, clean it out nicely, run some 93 octane with fuel cleaner and pray for the best? Maybe a problem within the ECU, since no CEL's? ANY HELP with this problem would be much appreciated

    thanks in advance, and sorry for such a long description, just figured it might help
     
  2. Luis998

    Luis998 Honda Enthusiast

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    :doh:
     
  3. dustyb20

    dustyb20 New Member

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    First of all the actual point of me not having a filter on the intake is completely irrelevant evidently since i spent 3 hours meticulously taking apart my entire block looking for flaws and debris.... as it was a concern i had as well... although a bigger concern of mine was that i might've had a stuck or hanging valve, needless to say me and my friend examined everything to determine it hasn't effected the internals of the block, but i do appreciate your smartass feedback, THANK YOU

    second, for me being the supposed "moron" you should read the full article saying that my car was on an actual "street tune" that a buddy had wrote for me to use as a temporary chip... technically it's a chrome program designed for a 1.9 lsvtec application with advanced timing and fuel curve... if YOU KNEW ANYTHING MORON, you'd know that a dyno will not send you away on 60lbs of fuel running thru a fpr, most actually prefer for you to use stock fpr for any applications under 350whp (which you'll have a hard time finding a 4 cyl. N/A setup with over 350whp moron)

    as for a car not supposed to load up on fuel.. well no shit sherlock, it's not supposed to, but shit does happen and i'm sure this isn't the first setup and sure as hell won't be the last setup you read about that has a problem with loading up on fuel...

    my plugs, by you're reference link, say that my car is loading up due to a fuel/air ratio being off or unstable... WOW, guess you proved my point, thank you for your 2 cents...

    NOW back to the point... can someone of a semi intelligent nature help, instead of just coming off as a random a$$hole? as i stated, i've taken the block apart completely, everything is checked out fine... compression is solid across all cylinders... new dizzy, and plugs... fuel filter is ok i'm guessing since fpr is getting consistant 60lbs... getting spark... my next step is complete rundown for vacuum leak... i've been told to replace injectors, and possibly tps... any other logical ideas?
     
  4. Ethan

    Ethan Well-Known Member

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    :newbie::doh: lol

    Good luck after bashing quality members.....
     
  5. SneakyTouchYourPlace

    SneakyTouchYourPlace New Member

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    black plugs? 60psi? Sounds like you are loading up. And if your cat loads up with fuel it can turn into a solid wall of crud, causing high backpressure which can feel almost the exact same as leaking injectors.
     
  6. dustyb20

    dustyb20 New Member

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    If you consider a quality member someone who comes into a thread, tells someone they're and idiot, because of something that has absolutely nothing to do with their problem, then i can tell exactly what type of morons/cockriders are here, period.

    as for my cat loading up, there isn't one, i'm running a 4-1 type-r style header with 3' outlet, 2.5" piping, to a 40 series flowmaster muffler, but i will try dropping the completel exhaust after i change out injectors here in the next 20-30 minutes. thank you for some actual decent input though :)



    first i didn't go head to head with you, you're an asshole, honestly i prefer to not deal with you completely. 2nd you're right, you know everything, actually you sound like you're on the wrong site, go to vadriven.com, YOU'd get along with the idiots on there well, you can even make an SPO forum about yourself on boring days! Third, i've known that there might actually be a problem with the ECU, or atleast the program that was written for me, it just hasn't surfaced until 8 months later, when we have a drastic weather change in the area (which really shouldn't explain this, which is why i came to evidentially the wrong forum to discuss, being filled with fine people such as yourself) Fourth, with your vast knowledge in all your wise years, you still aren't listening to me that your idea of not having a filter on my motor amounts to a hill of beans, and is definately not my problem, so anyone who wants to ride along on your cock is an idiot as well. I have some work to do running down vacuum lines, changing injectors and maybe dropping exhaust, thank you, have a nice day.
     
  7. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    im guessing that ebay fuel regulator as done what its real purpose is,,crap out and make you wonder.get a quality regulator and a real tune,not just a basemap,
     
  8. dustyb20

    dustyb20 New Member

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    the ebay fpr seems to be in working order... i tried adjusting it accordingly, and threw a secondary gauge on as well to check if it was getting an accurate reading, which they were both dead on, but i have a stock gsr fpr as well as b16, i'll try one of those as well if all else fails. i was planning to use them for the actual "tuning" of my car at the dyno, but i did need to compensate a bit while running this map my buddy wrote for me...

    i'm about to remove the exhaust again and try it to make sure nothing is clogged/built up there as well, as well as changing the injectors out... i'm running very short on ideas, checked everything from the internals of block and head, to tps, vacuum lines, dizzy, plugs, wires, etc, etc... i'd have the car thrown on a dyno for an actual tune, but it's hard to do when you can't crank it up, other informative people from another forum have been telling me to check the electrical... the only problem is, i've been thru the wiring with a fine tooth comb about 3 weeks ago and nothing looks out of the ordinary... the harnesses themselves are unmolested like most you find, so that'll make it easier to do again, BUT DAMN I HATE WIRING!
     
  9. SneakyTouchYourPlace

    SneakyTouchYourPlace New Member

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    If you can remove the chip and reinstall the original fpr, id do it just for testing purposes.
     
  10. dustyb20

    dustyb20 New Member

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    timing jumped a single tooth, noticed it while troubleshooting this afternoon... evidently timing belt had stretched, thank you for the advice though sneaky...
     
  11. GlassHeadlights

    GlassHeadlights West West Yall

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    Set it all to TDC and throw on a new timing belt. I would try to get a real tune though, as said before.
     
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