Capt. Orygun
Win the Day
so I changed the GF's pads and rotors last night and I changed out her 70K mile brake fluid 
it was nasty and black as sin, but anyways
the speed bleeder hose fit well with no adapter, just as the instruction book said. The fluid catch jar was however a temperamental son of a bitch, requiring constant readjustment to hold a seal. The "smoke it down" theory just doesnt work with it.
so I pump until I have a nice vacuum and open the lines, immediately I get some serious air bubble which is odd because the lines should have been full of fluid.
I read the instruction manual and it said sometimes the pump draws air into the bleed line from the threads of the open bleed screw, it say to option Teflon tape, so I do.
It works a little better but still allot of air, I wasn't losing vacuum off the gauge though so I felt pretty safe that no air was entering the caliper. I continued to draw out fluid until it was coming through clear then proceeded to the next caliper.
When it was all done I dejacked and cautiously (fucking air bubbles) took it for an ops check.
the new pads and rotors were nice, the squeaking from the warped rotors was gone. The peddle felt nice and firm, maybe firmer then before (thanks new brake fluid). I wore in the brakes a bit then did hard stopping from 20, 40, & 60 MPH. Then I brought it up to 50 and rode the brakes. No sponginess, no fade, no pedal rumble, it was fine. GF drove it 30 miles on the HWY to work this morning and everything felt normal.
Conclusion: The speed bleeder works but it's hardly the invention of the future. And serious improvements need to be made to the fluid canister sealing assembly
it was nasty and black as sin, but anyways
the speed bleeder hose fit well with no adapter, just as the instruction book said. The fluid catch jar was however a temperamental son of a bitch, requiring constant readjustment to hold a seal. The "smoke it down" theory just doesnt work with it.
so I pump until I have a nice vacuum and open the lines, immediately I get some serious air bubble which is odd because the lines should have been full of fluid.
I read the instruction manual and it said sometimes the pump draws air into the bleed line from the threads of the open bleed screw, it say to option Teflon tape, so I do.
It works a little better but still allot of air, I wasn't losing vacuum off the gauge though so I felt pretty safe that no air was entering the caliper. I continued to draw out fluid until it was coming through clear then proceeded to the next caliper.
When it was all done I dejacked and cautiously (fucking air bubbles) took it for an ops check.
the new pads and rotors were nice, the squeaking from the warped rotors was gone. The peddle felt nice and firm, maybe firmer then before (thanks new brake fluid). I wore in the brakes a bit then did hard stopping from 20, 40, & 60 MPH. Then I brought it up to 50 and rode the brakes. No sponginess, no fade, no pedal rumble, it was fine. GF drove it 30 miles on the HWY to work this morning and everything felt normal.
Conclusion: The speed bleeder works but it's hardly the invention of the future. And serious improvements need to be made to the fluid canister sealing assembly
Last edited:
