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profec e-01?

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by kell211, Aug 31, 2003.

  1. kell211

    kell211 Member

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    is anyone here familiar enough with the Greddy profec e-01 to offer help. my car is running like shit, and i'm very new to the car and the system running it. the motor is an ls/vtec with je 9:1 pistons, crower rods, str cam gears, the motor has already been sleeved and is running a t3-04e .57 a/r. any way, the car runs extremely rough and i'm wondering if anyone would be able to help me learn to use the profec to tune the car. any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    e-01 is a boost controller, not a device that makes a car run rough or great.
    what are you running for fuel management?
     
  3. kell211

    kell211 Member

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    the greddy e-manage. both were on the car when i bought it, so i know very litttle about using either one. i know that the profec will allow me to adjust about anything in the computer within reason, i just aren't sure where to start. one specific question is about the vtec. it has been adjusted to kick on at 4800 and on the same screen it has an air adjustment of 17%. what would be that benefit and hinderences of having the vtec kick in that early and is the 17% too much or too little air. i thought this may be the source of the problem because it starts running rough at about that time. of course i also thought it may be a problem with air/fuel or the timing. the profec and e-manage have an auto learn for setting the boost, which hasn't been done. would it be better to use the auto learn or to manually set the parameters for boost? and if so, where do i start? sorry for all the questions, but i'm really lost for what to do on the car and there is no one within 2 hours of where i live to take it to.
     
  4. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    e-manage is basically a glorified VAFC.

    the profec allows for boost control only. everything else will be done on the emanage.

    4800 is low- very low. on an ls vtec, id say it shold be crossing over in the 5500 range. only a dyno can tell you for sure, but i'd bump it to there at least.

    the vafc doesn't control air- it controls fuel. 17% is plus 17%. so you are throwing in 17% more fuel.

    i wouldn't run the auto learn. you have too many problems as it is right now....

    first thing to do is to find out what equipment you have:
    What size injectors are you running? oem or 3-bar map sensor? fuel pump? check valves? missing link? or is it setup vafc-hack style? FMU?
     
  5. kell211

    kell211 Member

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    i'll start with what i know, it has 370cc injectors and the guy i bought i from said the fuel pump would push 450cc's or better, though i dont' know what type it is specifically. and are you sure that when the e-manage say's "air adjustment 17%" that doesn't mean that the car is decreasing fuel 17%, therefore increasing the ratio of air 17%. I don't know, so i'm merely asking. i've been having a very hard time finding anyone that is familiar with this set up to even ask questions to. as for the other equipment questions, quite honestly i don't know and could you help me find out how to tell? much of the termenalogy for these cars is very new to me so any and all help is very appreciated. what is the disadvantage of having the vtec kick in higher in the rpm range, and for that matter, what is the redline on an ls/vtec? and do you know what all the auto learn will change, ex. will it retard timing, adjust fuel, etc. and if anyone knows of someone in my area that would be good to tune the car, please let me know. i live about 3hrs south of St. Louis and 2hrs north of Nashville. thanks for any and all information.
     
  6. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    370s are kinda tiny. you will end up topping out your injectors duty cycle at roughly 250-ish whp. Jeff topped out his 440s at about 270.

    if you are looking to make more (which you easily can) you will need some larger injectors. i recommend the 550cc's. the e-mange should be able to control those.

    as for the air adjustment-
    the ONLY way to adjust air flow is via your right foot, or getting a restrictor plate in the throttle body. when you add 17%, you are richening up the mixture 17% by adding more fuel.... but that can only take you as far as your injectors can take you too don't forget.

    there is NO disadvantage to having VTEC kick in at a higher RPM. its all about where it makes the most power.

    take your average non-vtec car- it starts dying powerwise around like 5-6000 rpms. well, guess what- so do our hondas. at this point, we switch to the larger profile of the cam.
    if you switch to low, you will have a dip in the power band
    if you switch to high, you will have a huge dip in the power band.
    you want it to change at its most effect spot. 3 pulls on the dyno should have you figuring that out.

    redline on an ls/vtec is what you built it for, but more so, what computer is powering it. be that as it may, 8k is really as high as you need to go, especially on gsr/b16 cams... maybe 82-8400 on itr cams

    i have o idea how that auto-learn setting works, so im going to advise against you using it. most of the time, it needs a wideband o2 hook up for it to truely work properly, something honda's don't have from the factory

    if your by nahsville- talk to jody on here (SiR Kid) he hs conenctions to a couple shops that can probably get your all tuned up with what you have for now, and later if you want to go bigger with the larger injectors and a real pump.
     
  7. Slo86GT

    Slo86GT Super Moderator

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    B!!! I'm in MEMPHIS, dude. That's 2.5 hours from Nashville. ;)



    Anyway. Do you know what cams are you running? Are the cam gears dialed at 0?

    If it's running rough, you may want to close the gap on your spark plugs. Does the car run pretty well at part throttle, if you keep it out of boost?

    Help me help you, man! :)
     
  8. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    :doh:

    i always forget that....
     
  9. kell211

    kell211 Member

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    i have gsr cams and str cam gears. the exhaust cam is dialed very slightly clockwise, not even enough to fully go to a different mark though. i've never dealt with adjustable came gears, so i'm not sure if someone has moved it slightly on purpose, or it's moved over time, or if it's moved enough to even make a difference. i also looked at the map sensor on top of the throttle body and other than the fact it is made by denso, i know nothing. is there any way of knowing whether it is or isn't a 3 bar sensor? i can take the part number off it if it would help or is someone knew where i could look that up. also, what should the gap on the plugs be at? they range from .033 to about .035. the only other turbo car i've ever had was set at .035, what do you guy's suggest? the car ran fine at lower rpm's last time i drove it, the trouble only started in the late 4000 range. i'm wondering if this may have had something to do with the vtec being set too low? right now the car is boosing really high, without setting up the profec, either manually or using it's auto learn, it's doesn't seem to be giving the car a boost limit. that's one reason i'm really wanting to get that thing set. i know i could disconnect the profec and run straight off the wastegate, but i'd like to not have to hook and unhook that thing. either way, i'm only about 2.5 hrs from Memphis, so are there any really good tune shops there? i may have to find one to ever get this car running right. i have no idea who built the motor and the guy i got it from doesn't know anything about it really, so i'm having to go piece by piece to find out things about it. please help.
     
  10. Slo86GT

    Slo86GT Super Moderator

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    Best place to take it to have them take a look is Polk Performance in Little Rock, Arkansas. They are pretty damn good with boosted Imports.

    GSR cams are good. As far as plug gap, you might want to back them up to 25 or 28. That worked MUCH better for my car at 15 PSI.

    YOU HAVE GOT to get that boost controller working, or just have the wastegate control the boost. If it's jsut boosting without limits, you're BEGGING to blow your engine up. Seriously. Get that straightened out, whatever it takes.

    Denso only makes stock MAP sensors, so that's a 2 bar. No boosting over 12-13 PSI for joo! ;)
     
  11. kell211

    kell211 Member

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    here's the update. i adjusted the vtec back to 5400 rpm's set the plugs at .030 and took it out this morning. the car ran pretty damn good. the idle is a little rough, but almost all of the bogging down is gone. there is still the occasional hesitation about the time vtec kicks in. but when my can hits, it goes to like 7500-8000 rpms in like a second. so that's strong as hell. any chance this has something to do with valve overlap (i have a very basic understanding of this concept only, but i know turbo cars deal with it and adjustable cam gears are a way to help)? i still can't get that boost controller to set though. i guess i'll try to set it up manually instead of the auto set, any ideas on that? what are other boost controllers like to set up, what do i need to adjust, etc.? when i turn it on manual, (where i would put in the amount of psi i want to push on auto mode), it turns into a % symbol. i've no idea what this is a percent of i'm supposed to be inputting. any ideas would be helpful. i also noticed today that there is a little anit-freeze dripping from around the head, it's not overheating yet, but i'm going to go ahead and change the gasket. what kind should i get a turbo one, one for a ls, or what? and since i'm going to be replacing some simple parts already, any suggestions on plugs, wires (i currently have msd 8.5mm, but one of the boots is messed up and they don't fit like they were even for this car), 3 bar map sensor. and do you know of any where to get the car tuned toward Nashville or in Memphis? sorry for all the questions, but this forum is all the help i've been able to find.
     
  12. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    not really. gsr cams don't really have much overlap.



    ut ohhhhhhhhh

    sounds like you popped the headgasket. that would also explain your hesitation.

    read the post in the FAQ forum about ls/vtec build for more info on what heasgasket to use.



    NGK for both.

    more info on plugs: http://home.att.net/~ngkaz/wsb/html/view.c...home.html-.html



    must be the GM part. its the only one that really works on our cars.... but im not sure if the e-manage supports it or not. you'll have to find that info out.




    i hope we are giving you some direction at least.... its kinda hard, seeing as you are using semi-unpopular stuff.
     
  13. Slo86GT

    Slo86GT Super Moderator

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    The percentage on the boost controller is PROBABLY a percentage OVER the rating of the wastegate spring. Like if you have a 7 PSI spring and you set it at 50%, then 7 + (7 * .5) = 10.5 PSI. Make sense? Don't quote me on that, but that sounds logical to me. It is a digital controller, after all. ;)

    With GSR cams, DO NOT mess with your cam gears unless you're on a dyno. 0's work FINE. Hybrid901 on Honda-Tech made over 400 HP at the wheels on a b18c1 with GSR cams set at 0.

    Bogging sounds like a fuel/timing issue. Yet another reason to find a tuner.

    Apparently there's a few HARD CORE improt shops in KY somewhere. There are 3, yes three All Wheel Drive dyno's in Kentucky, and those things are RARE and EXPENSIVE. You might want to ask around locally to see if anyone's heard of any local shops that specialize in Honda's.

    Yeah, NGK wires and plugs are a must. They're cheapest on eBay, believe it or not. Don't pay over $40 for wires, and $10 for a 4 pack of copper V power or copper standard plugs.

    Good Luck!
     
  14. kell211

    kell211 Member

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    thanks alot for the help, and of course i do have a few more questions, sorry. after reading, i know i need the ls head gasket, will any stock one do, or is any paticular brand better than others? by the way, what probably caused the head gasket to blow, bad luck ,too much boost, etc., is this a common thing with turbo honda's, and would this expain any of the hesitation at mid to high rpm's? how did you find out about the dyno's in kentucky and do you know where they are located? where are ngk plugs and wires readily available without going over the internet? and finally, i got a very brief description of how the profec boost controller is to be set up. this i concerning the percentage that was mentione earlier, and i quote:

    the manual input mode. this feature will allow the user to input a boost setting for a custom boost curve. this feature requires the user to input boost controller solenoid duty cycyle value and monitor the boost in display mode to see how much boost is increased at the inputted duty cycle. 0% will be the same as base boost or boost controller turned off. 100% will be the same as disconnecting the wastegate signal line. select this mode and input the desired solenoid duty cycle.

    ok, that being said, i understand most of it i think. i know i can set that percentage and then go run the car and see what happens, but i you guy's know of any equation or any educated quesses that might help me figure out what type of boost i may run on whatever percent i would appreciate any opinions you can give. to set it up manually you also must input gain and start boost. any suggestions on what would be desirable settings there either?
     
  15. kell211

    kell211 Member

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    i got it working. it's taken many many setups and screwups, but as of today i've got the thing controlling boost. if anyone ever needs any help setting up a profec e-01, let me know, i've researched the hell out of it. i still have a rough idle, any suggestions on that. i'm going to pull the head off this weekend and replace the gasket, which may be some of it. i also backed the plugs back to .030, with a rough idle would i shorten the gap, or make it longer to help cure it?

    the car, unfortunately, doesn't make near as much power now without the boost going up to about 15psi. what should i do to find out how much boost i can run safely? still looking for a dyno, but is that the only option?

    it was also said that i couldn't run mor than 12-13psi of boost without a 3 bar map sensor, so how does the car make like 15 psi? which it has. is that just because it was a spike or what? or is there actually a 3 bar sensor in it? but i swear it says denso on it.

    thanks again for the help so far.
     
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