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Pro's and con's of B-series swap?

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by integrawow, Dec 20, 2005.

  1. integrawow

    integrawow Member

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    For people that have done the b-series into a 92-95 civic HB.

    What are the pro's and con's of B-series swaps?

    I have read many swap articles, but what are some of the things that these articles don't tell the reader?

    What kind of 1/4 mile times can I expect? I want to swap in a B18b or a B20.
     
  2. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    pros- you actually have power


    cons- you never have enough power

    1/4 mile times you would probably run would be like maybe 10's to 11's
     
  3. driver1

    driver1 Senior Member

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    ummmm 10's to 11's on a stock b series setup in a civic......not even close.....look for more along the lines of 15 sec 1/4 times
     
  4. 92civicb18b1

    92civicb18b1 The Trisexual

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    maybe he meant 1/8's

    You could probably pull a high 15 with a b20.

    Pros: it doesn't have sub 100 hp figures

    Cons: Like vtec said, it's never enough and is still "slow" and costs money.
     
  5. integrawow

    integrawow Member

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    Is there really anything special that I need to know, such as:
    -Which EG chassis is the best to use?
    -Is it a bolt in deal like some sources have said?
    -Any problems with tranny swap that should be mentioned?
    -Any special brackets?
    -Any special parts?
    -Should I use the EG's ecu?
    -Anything at all?

    I would appreciate it if ya'll could recommend me to a specific article on this swap. One that ya'll think covers just about all of the little tricks involved in the swap.

    Sorry if I sound like a new guy, but I don't like unexpected surprises.
     
  6. 92civicb18b1

    92civicb18b1 The Trisexual

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    its a stright forward bolt in.

    Faster - VX or CX, they're the lightest
     
  7. integrawow

    integrawow Member

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    And the real reason that I am considering this swap is that the EG 92-95 hatchback weighs nearly 300 pounds less than my integra rs, so I expect it to run low 15's or high 14's.

    If I decide not to leave the B20 engine stock, I will probably be using the B20 with the P8R head, 403 cams, header/intake, and maybe a 50-75hp wet shot.
     
  8. 92civicb18b1

    92civicb18b1 The Trisexual

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    you can probably pull mid-high 14s with slicks in the EG/b20

    Just turbo the teg and you can be in the 13s
     
  9. Estorvito

    Estorvito Soy Boricua

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    a hatch is fine...Its a bolt on swap..Itll drop right in with no problem...now if the hatch was an auto and you wanted to make it stick, then you'll need the auto to manual mount from hasport, and rewire your backup lights.Thats all....other than that...Its a wrap...
    so ahh...
    If its was already a manual vehicle, no special parts are required other than the stock teg mounts,,,and the linkage...
    for the ecu i would go for the one that the engine came from, and for the b18b it would be and obd1 p75 ecu..since of course the eg is an obd1....
    I've used p28, p75 and p72 ecu's for my b18bswap in my fodo' and they all seem to work...but now i have the obd1 p75 and seems to be working fine so my best choise for a b18b would be an obd1 p75..i dunno/
    so ahh ..

    You should be fine..

    Good luck..
    Im highhhhh,,,


    JoJO
     
  10. integrawow

    integrawow Member

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    JoJo, what kind of 1/4 mile did you run? What all have you done to your car?

    Everyone keeps telling me that I should just go turbo with my integra, but the cost is outrageous.

    I have considered using the crx, but good luck finding one.

    And one more thing. What about the differences in transmissions, I know that I will need a hydro-clutch tranny like the one that comes with the EG, but what would be the best tranny to use? And will I have to purchase a bracket to use the EG's A/C compressor?

    Also, could someone recommend me to a swap guide or article that they think would be alot of help for this particular swap.

    By the way, thanks to everyone that has posted!!!
     
  11. 92civicb18b1

    92civicb18b1 The Trisexual

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    My stock LS hatches were low 15's.

    My LS-T hatches were mid/low 13's.

    It cost me less then 1500 for my turbo setup and I had some issues with the turbo, rebuilt and upgraded it to a 60/48 and surpassed my original goal of 250 hp. I spent somewhere around mid 3K including the car for a ~260 hp LS-T civic.
     
  12. integrawow

    integrawow Member

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    I am not saying that I don't believe you, but I am having trouble figuring out how you got a turbo setup for less than $1500. What is your combination as far as your turbo setup?
     
  13. 92civicb18b1

    92civicb18b1 The Trisexual

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    Turbo - started as a 42/48 - 100 bucks, you can find em on ebay all day.

    Upgrade - 90 bucks, I got lucky and got a 60/63 cheap. I just wanted the Compressor housing though

    IC - 150

    Chipped/Socketed ECU - I believe it was 45 for socketed ECU and basemap

    Manifold - 125

    Injectors - 60

    Internal gate was $20

    Piping, made by me for $136

    Oil lines, HD special - not more then 50 bucks

    OIL adapter was like $30

    El cheapo boost gauge

    DP - 80, they're so simple to make, flex, bend, straight and a couple flanges

    BOV was like 50-60

    Exhaust was $225

    Plus random mic parts....then tuning and blah

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Cashizslick

    Cashizslick !i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!

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    ^ Did u run slicks at the track?
     
  15. 92civicb18b1

    92civicb18b1 The Trisexual

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    1st run I didn't, I ran a 13.9, then some guy actually let me use his and I ran a 13.48
     
  16. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    I was fuking being sarcastic

    noob questions get noob responses

    nobody can tell you what your car will run blah blah been covered 8998789003654780235 times.

    search

    and by the way you would have to be retarded not to be able to run high 14s with a b series anything in a hatch
     
  17. DelSlo

    DelSlo Senior Member

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    first off, dont listen to him on the price of his turbo setup, he may be 100% correct in what it cost him, you can be asssured that it wont cost YOU that much, especially when done with good known parts, sure you can pick up BOVs for 20 bucks, but they are used and not a good known brand. its alot of research, and alot more parts to buy and know ALOT about. i think anyone here who has done a turbo setup that was custom., that it was not easy your first time to find all the right parts, and not only the right parts, but to know what sizes work together well.

    you got a bit of an odd opinion, a swap, or a turbo on your already existing integra. #1, if you get an EG that costs money, you do a swap, that costs money.

    you keep your integra and go boost. either way both routes are gonna cost you a healthy amount of money. these guys are absolutely correct that a b series is never enough power. when you first drop a b16 or b18 into an EG and go for a rip, you're gonna think, this thing is fuckin fast, and sure it is, from what you were driving before, but soon you will crave more.

    we dont know the extent of your knowledge or how capable you are of working with cars and ecu's and wiring in general. ill suggest this to you though, as its the route i have chosen and i will tell you why i think its one of the better ways to go.

    either keep your TEG or get an EG. EG being the better of the two. do a b series swap, preferably a b16 because of its potential, but a b18c1 (GSR) has just as much potential. now you are cookin, youve got a good chassis with lots of aftermarket parts available to it. youre gonna think its fast, and like i said, it is, but not compared to most other "fast" cars. so now youve spent a good amount of cash on the car and the swap. if you're still lookin for more power, save some cash, then start looking into boosting. a b16 or b18 can hold a good amount of boost stock, assuming the motor is in good shape) make your own or buy a kit and boost it and make as much power as the car will ever need. what i mean by that is, on a stock chassis, 250-300 hp is all you will really need for the street, after that, its traction issues and its time to modify and upgrade that chassis. ive done this exact thing with an EG chassis but a del sol, not a civic, loved the b16a2, but needed more, boosted, and now ive got it. now if i wanted to go any faster, its time to start race team haha. so to build a good reliable car, get a powerplant that is reliable itself whether stock, or under boost. the moral of this would have to be, plan for the future. what i mean by this is, i do swaps for a race shop here in toronto, and i see guys come in and they want that ever so loved, TYPE R, and they spend the huge bucks to get it, we swap it in, and just like a b16, its fast at first. but wait, now you want more power? i wouldnt suggest boosting a TYPE R for significant/reliable power gains. see what im saying? you got tons of options and alot of ppl have gone alot of different routes, research your options and think about what you want, a daily driver and fun car, or track car to put some awesome numbers down. lots of options out there, and each one suits a different requirement quite well! again all this is MY OPINION only based on EXPERIENCE not reading or spreading the word, other members feel free to offer your own as well!

    best of luck! hondaswap is sureley here to help ppl like yourself! :)
     
  18. Cashizslick

    Cashizslick !i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!

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    Im guessing ur mph was somewhere around 105 ish . . .

    Nice time. 13.9 @ 105 is what i ran w/my 240.
     
  19. 92civicb18b1

    92civicb18b1 The Trisexual

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    I think it was around 103.

    anyone can make a Honda turbo kit for under 1500 bucks, it's really not that hard.
     
  20. integrawow

    integrawow Member

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    DelSlo, I really appreciate it, and I mean alot. And I wanna say thanks to everyone else that posted also, because believe it or not, you are definitely helping me here.

    First things first, I would like to go turbo, but I notice that I will have to move the radiator and fan forwards to clear the turbo. Next, with some kits, I will have to remove A/C or power steering. Next, it will take a really long time to complete the turbo install (the car is going to be a daily driver). Next, if something happens to the turbo or related parts, it just may take forever to get the parts to fix it and I would have to "bum" a ride until I fix the broken part(s). Next, I have to do a little fabing to get the intercooler mounted into the front end of the car (hint: I don't like cutting on a car).

    It just turns out to be a big mess, and good luck selling the car and not losing money (the money put into the car versus what you end up selling it for). A really good source told me once that it is best to buy a car with a swap already done, or buy a car with a turbo already installed, therefore, you end up saving lots of cash.

    I am not trying to sound like a cheap a$$. I would love to have a turbo setup, but I would like to use nitrous, so I sort of have to choose one for the other. I know how to make a custom nitrous setup for little to no money at all.

    But the main focus on getting good numbers regardless of what engine combo you go with is the weight of the chassis. I know for sure that a CRX is gonna run faster that an EG, and an EG is gonna be faster than an integra, given that they all have the same engine and tranny. If I swap in a B18b or a B20 (p8r) motor into an EG chassis, and spray it with a 50-75hp wetshot, I could hopefully run mid 13's or even faster. Everyone truthfully wants to run 12's or even 11's, but some people need to be realistic about the cash that they have to spend on a project.

    But I guess this post has gotten long enough for now, and I really appreciate everyone's opinions.
     
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