Q's about traction bars/systems

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hybrid89

hybrid89

thistownsucks...
Heres the sitch....I would love to run a traction bar on my rex. Unfortunatley I went the route of Place racing mounts and front x-member(i wanted the fourth mount on the x-member due to me snapping axles like twigs and the motor sagging) Place's setup does not have a traction linkage for wheel hop, and retains the stock radius rods. Now I have a great fabricator that can build anything I want. I want to adapt me place x-member to serve dual function(mount and traction system).

My questions are....how does a linkage setup really differ from stock radius rods(what the fuck does it actually do to stop wheel hop)? Is there a difference in design between companies(ie jim fab vs. ????)? and 3rd, I am assuming that you adjust the setup by tightening/loosening the linkage, doesn't that have the same affect as tightening/loosening the stock radius rods(adjusting caster???)

matt

:worthy:
 
in all honesty, i would switch mounts and x-member. hasport has the best mounts, and ive never had axle problems since i switched to them. full-race has the best crossmember. its stronger, lighter, and provides more clearance then any other company out there. jimfab comes in second place to me, it doesnt have that great of clearance. only down side to both are cost, but you do get what you pay for.

im not trying to tell you what to do, its just my opinion on what you should do. but as to your question on whats different between them and the stock peice is that they use hiem joints which make it almost impossible for the suspension to move back and forth, while still allowing it to move up and down. also they are generally built with stronger materials, better welds, and so forth.

Click here for JimFab
Click here and scroll down for Full Race bars and info

in addition the Full race bars do have adjustable caster. you adjust it by just turning the radius rod, its threaded on both ends, with one end having a reverse thread. the jimfab bar is adjustable too but not as good. its only threaded on one end so you would have to disconnect it from the control arm to adjust it.

if you say you have a fabricator, you could probably try to make something similar to the full race design, but i dont think the place racing bar is strong enough, just my .02.
 
Originally posted by GSRCRXsi@Jul 30 2004, 03:22 PM
but as to your question on whats different between them and the stock peice is that they use hiem joints which make it almost impossible for the suspension to move back and forth, while still allowing it to move up and down. also they are generally built with stronger materials, better welds, and so forth.
[post=370441]Quoted post[/post]​
Click to expand...


The CRX traction bar kits effectively just replace the soft rubber bushing with a ball type joint... it takes out the forward/backward slop from the radius arm, and it allows it to pivot more freely at the same time. A cheap way to get this effect without paying more than $10 is to change out the rubber radius arm bushings with really thick washers, then bolt everything up. It won't pivot nearly as well as a traction bar kit (or even stock), but it will help keep your wheel hop under control.
 
the full-race bars are EXACTLY what you are after
 
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