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umm my b16 came from a 91 XSI and its OBD0. wernt all integras 91-93 obd0? or did they switch for 92-93? i know the 94-95 were obd1 and most had the b18b in them, but i could be wrong
90-91 Integra XSi engines are OBD0 with cable transaxles. The 92-93 Integra XSi was in the same four year generation as the 90-91s (hence the constant reference to 90-93) however the OBD changed over in 92. OBD is a mandated change over, so this generation has two OBD styles in it.
The 92-93 XSi B16A also makes I believe 10 more HP and two more ft\lbs of torque while maintaining the cable transaxle. The valve cover is semi-rare from what I understand as it has a larger VTEC emblem than the DOHC emblem right above it, whereas the 88-91 Civic|CRX SiRs and 90-91 Integra XSi B16As have larger DOHC emblems than VTEC emblems. Though trivial, it's a nice added JDM bling factor to your engine bay, especially if a lot of fan-boys get to look under your hood.
Helical-type limited slip equipped transaxles, I BELIEVE, were available for all of the above mentioned combinations, available in the Y1 and YS1 (JDM YS1 only, not the 92-93 USDM GSR YS1) transaxles as a factory option from the factory. Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this.
Since you've already got a four wire 02 sensor, that will save you some wiring work. Depending on the trim level of your vehicle, you may still need to wire VTEC, VTEC Oil Pressure (don't forget the branched ground on this circuit) and Knock Sensor for the engine to operate without a cameo from the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp, or Check Engine light in laymens terms). Wiring these is a simple process, you can run the wires straight from the ECU into the engine bay to the connectors, through the factory harnesses, with VTEC controllers, ETC... it's up to you. I prefer to try to modify the interior and engine harnesses to make more of a stock look, however, there isn't anything wrong with running somewhat of a subharness from the ECU through the firewall. Just make sure if you choose the latter option to use wire loom, as ambient temperatures in the engine bay as well as other conditions may damage your wiring and lead you on a wild goose chase to figure out your new found Check Engine light.
A lot of people snip the wire on the ECU plug that goes into the slot where the new wire must go in and then tee off of that. I recommend de-pinning the wire, snipping the end and then soldering the wire stub and new wire together to ensure a more solid connection as trying to solder while the wiring is still under your dash can prove annoying and difficult. Also, heat shrink is highly recommended to protect the new solder joint. Try to avoid just twisting and taping the new wire to the stub with the pin on it, more often than not it will eventually come undone or not even work properly the first time you start the car after the swap. Using the factory harnesses can prove to be a lengthy process but can be well worth it. You'll need to remove both harnesses and open them up to add circuitry, however, if you've removed anything that uses a circuit from your vehicle, like AC for instance, now would be the time to remove extraneous wiring. Also, this gives you the opportunity to remove old wire loom and\or electrical tape and redo it or also clean the existing harness of any oil, grease, or other nasty stuff to get all over your hands and car. Use a non-CRC based cleaner and spray out the inside of your plugs, followed by compressed air, and you will be less likely to run into any electrical problems in the future. A lot of electrical problems can be subverted when you already have your harness(es) out and readily available to maintenance. Some people will replace a lot of components and spend a lot of money when something goes out, only to find out it was a dirty connector or broken circuit (broken wire) after all of their wasted money, time and effort. Spend the extra time now, do it the way that you want it done and you will have much greater success in the end as well as less hassles down the road
