re-doing the f*ck#r

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have typer oil squirters added . replace the sleaves or pin the block to prevent cyclinder walk . have all sharpe egdes deburred .
 
i failed to mention the head is of a 99 b16a. and Im using the stock harness wich is the same as the SI. (vtec, knock sensor,crank angle, etc) what do you think?
 
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Oh yeah and the sleeves is what i meant by getting did, there in the pic. And are oil squirters worth it ive heard both no and yes.
 
So what happened with the GSR head that came with the GSR swap you bought that spun the bearing?

Oil squirters are ALWAYS worth it. Whoever said no is a complete retard. Oil is the blood of your motor, why would oil squirters not benefit you... However, they aren't a must-need thing with every build but getting/using them is ALWAYS a good investment.
 
It was bought with the b16a head on it thats why im kinda doing this post, making sure nobody trusts other people sh*t. So what does that mean with the p2t , am i right. And the oil squirters i believe were designed to cool higher reving engines (b18c1-5) than lubricate the ls, correct me if im wrong.
 
Oh ok...

Yes, you'd need to use the p2t. But you're not limited to that particular ecu. You can use another ecu and get it tuned...

You're right about the oil squirters but you answered your own question...

higher reving engines
Are you not gonna be reving that LS motor higher now to take advantage of the Vtec power band? You see where i'm getting at?...
 
Sorry,I guess i better fill every one in on my setup before posting crap. I have a b16a head, stage 2 crower cams, pnp to the nuts. now swithching to ls block as you can see, getting shipped to be sleeved with darton 81-84 M.I.D sleeves , coming back to be bored to fit my 84 mm je 9-1 pistons and a 00 gsr tranny. t3/t4 turbo (soon to be upgraded).
 
I also think I was screwed on the p72, I think that it was for a auto, but im goin to try the p2t, and ive got some ties with the best tuner (I think) in the west. so befaore i even fire it up im just going to hand it over to him.
 
I never understood the cams/turbo setups, that would be another thing i would like to become familiar with. thanks
 
I never understood the cams/turbo setups, that would be another thing i would like to become familiar with. thanks
Well n/a cams have an overlap period where both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time. Obviously the higher the stage, the higher the lift and duration the valves stay open. In a nutshell, this is bad for turbo applications since you'd be shooting the boost entering the intake valves right out the exhaust valves.
 
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i'd have the mains all align honed to make sure there's no lips protruding into the bearing zone.

:yes:

BUT... boring the journal surface makes you run into all kinds of fun issues when sizing up bearings. It may still be cheaper to get the aftermarket girdle kit, unless you don't care about all your bearing clearances exactly matching up with each other. I know I do. :)

The GSR girdle also only covers 3 of mains. Some of the aftermarket units (I didn't look at the link) go all the way across.

Oil squirters are ALWAYS worth it. Whoever said no is a complete retard. Oil is the blood of your motor, why would oil squirters not benefit you... However, they aren't a must-need thing with every build but getting/using them is ALWAYS a good investment.

Not always worth it. Windage loss, physical obstruction- there are a large number of reasons why you wouldn't want them in your engine. The whole purpose of the oil squirters is to remove heat from the bottoms of the pistons, not to lubricate them. When you're not worried about excessive heat coming through the pistons, you don't really need the squirters anymore. That being said, they're not just there for high RPM engines- they're for engines that need better heat management inside the combustion chambers.

FYI- my GSR block had the squirters blocked off.
 
I did not know they made them all the way across. but bearings shouldn't be an issue when i get my block back from darton i will definately be doing lots of plastiguage and machining to make sure every thing is perfect. I dont want to skimp, or miss any thing on this build, i want it to be powerful and reliable. So thanks and I hope every one stays tuned so i dont skimp or miss something.
 
Why did you have them blocked off? what kind of setup made yours produce less heat? just machining for less friction?
 
The OEM girdle didn't go all the way across. Some of the aftermarket ones do.

As far as bearings go, sometimes it's VERY difficult to source some of the odd size bearings you might need to get clearances just right after you screw with the main journals.

I had mine blocked off because my piston skirts started knocking them off. When you go to a large bore, you start running into problems like that. To protect against heat, I had my pistons coated by Swain Technologies. The ceramic coatings on top really helped to block a lot of the heat from getting through the pistons.
 
well calesta to nullify that problem of searching for obscure bearing sizes, you could shave down both of the mating surfaces on both the main caps and the block where they bolt to. then have the hole enlarged to the factory spec by align honing. then you get to use the GSR girdle for free, because you paid for the align hone, and got free machining to make your stolen girdle work. two birds, same stone.
 
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