rear disc conversion

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highperboi

Senior Member
ok so i got my integra rear brakes on and hooked everything up and it works sorta...

im using the civic booster, master cylinder and prop valve. i drove it around and the pedal goes all the way to the floor. it still locks up but it doesnt have a good feeling to it and it has no brakeing power until its almost to the flooor. is this normal sence im using the civic booster and master cylinder?
 
Sounds like you should rebleed the system to make it stiff.

It shouldn't matter too much using the civic booster or master cylinder, but it could have something to do with the porpotioning valve since its used to drum type breaks.
 
You need to use a different prop valve, one the is numbered at least 40/30, if not 40/40. You can use one from any civic/Del Sol/ integra with rear disc. Some have the six fittings some have five, if you didn't have ABS then the six fitting ones are a direct swap. Try finding one from a a pre 96 Si, even the 88-91's, that's what I am using. Also you will need a bigger master cylinder, as your stock one doesn't allow for the displacement of fluid nescessary to properly fill the larger brakes, and push the piston.
 
what does the 40/30 mean?? could i flip the prop valve upside down?
 
After trying to find this out for myself, I have no really idea. I thought it was a ratio by which fluid was metered, but it seems it is just a numbering system. Just get a prop valve from a car with rear disc.
 
the prop valve would not cause that. i had a rear disc conversion on my car while keeping the prop valve for rear drum, works fine. sounds to me like you need to rebleed the system.
 
thanks you guys

now there is another problem. my driver side has more camber then my passanger side. Is it possible that i put it on wrong? if not then it is because these trailing arms came from my integra which is totaled and i think it bent or something. would it be safe it i just put washers on the driverside to make it have less camber?
 
extremely possible that it is warped. I see no reason why a few washers would be wrong, as long as it's only slightly cambered.
 
sorry heres more questions (havent driven car in while and want it to be done)

i was reading up on post and i read this

The rears will definitely bolt up. Just don't change your compensator arms or your upper/lower control arms. How much is PasswordJDM selling you all this for anyway?


what are compensator arms?

also i have the booster and master cylinder from my integra also but i read that i need to bend the hardlines and its hard to squeeze it in because i have my b18c1 iab and runner in the way. Is there a mastercylinder i can buy that is bigger then my dx one but bolts on to the stock booster?
 
Originally posted by B16@Nov 25 2003, 03:35 PM
the prop valve would not cause that. i had a rear disc conversion on my car while keeping the prop valve for rear drum, works fine. sounds to me like you need to rebleed the system.

My buddies car did, locked up the rears almost everytime. He changed the prop and all was fine. I drove mine with the VX prop, and it stopped fine, except that I had no pads on one side, and it was metal on metal.

what are compensator arms?

The compensator arm is the little one at the top, closest to the front. It is used to align the rear suspension. They say not to replace it because you have to get a alignment afterwards, but if you remove your trailing arms then you're going to need one anyway.

Is there a mastercylinder i can buy that is bigger then my dx one but bolts on to the stock booster?

Yes, you can use a 89-91 MC, with the teg resevoir, and stock booster.
 
oh i see yeah i didnt take those off.

what are the arm things with 2 14mm bolts that go into the chassis ontop of the brakes called? are civic ones different from integra ones?
 
Originally posted by highperboi@Nov 25 2003, 07:54 PM
oh i see yeah i didnt take those off.

what are the arm things with 2 14mm bolts that go into the chassis ontop of the brakes called? are civic ones different from integra ones?

upper arm inner bushings.
 
Originally posted by 92b16vx+Nov 25 2003, 10:46 AM-->
@Nov 25 2003, 03:35 PM
the prop valve would not cause that.  i had a rear disc conversion on my car while keeping the prop valve for rear drum, works fine.  sounds to me like you need to rebleed the system.

My buddies car did, locked up the rears almost everytime. He changed the prop and all was fine. I drove mine with the VX prop, and it stopped fine, except that I had no pads on one side, and it was metal on metal.

i thought the problem was the pedal was going to the floor :D
 
and i have one for sale, $40 shipped
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yeah it was the problem but now i have another. which is the camber on the driver side is more then the other. i think the trailor arm is bent or something or my upper bushing arm is bent but i will find out tonight.
 
well yet another proble.... :( i stripped the threds inside one of the holes for the upper arm inner bushing. errrr my plan is to put a heli-coil inside and use a bigger bolt. hopfully i can get my friend to let me use his tool and do it. to solve my problem with camber i am gonna use the civci upper arm inner bushing because i think my integra ones are bent from accident. if not im gonna put washers in there.
 
Originally posted by B16+Nov 25 2003, 10:54 PM-->
Originally posted by 92b16vx@Nov 25 2003, 10:46 AM
B16
@Nov 25 2003, 03:35 PM
the prop valve would not cause that.  i had a rear disc conversion on my car while keeping the prop valve for rear drum, works fine.  sounds to me like you need to rebleed the system.

My buddies car did, locked up the rears almost everytime. He changed the prop and all was fine. I drove mine with the VX prop, and it stopped fine, except that I had no pads on one side, and it was metal on metal.

i thought the problem was the pedal was going to the floor :D

That's the MC not displacing enough fluid, I had both :)
 
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