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Rebuilt GSR Motor Burns Oil

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by GlassHeadlights, Apr 15, 2013.

  1. GlassHeadlights

    GlassHeadlights West West Yall

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    Block was machined and assembled my a reputable shop, head was taken apart & inspected then just had the valve seals relaced (honda valve seals)

    It seems to burn oil on deceleration. I had it idling the other day for maybe 10 minutes then moved it and as soon as I touched the gas (not high revving, just enough to get it moving in first gear) it let out a fair sized puff of smoke. Also, at the track people notice it puffs when I let off the gas then hit it again.

    Under normal daily driving it goes through a liter within 2500 kms or 1500 miles.

    I have a friend with a GSR and he got new aftermarket valve guides pressed in, he claims the GSR heads specifically have poor valve guides. My motor had over 300,000 kms or almost 200,000 miles at the time of rebuild.
     
  2. GlassHeadlights

    GlassHeadlights West West Yall

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    Another note - As for the break in I did about half an hour of breaking in the rings; accelerating then decelerating at various RPMs, but after that I'll admit to beating on it a bit, I'm wondering if that did some damage to the rings possibly... Then again the block was properly measured and sized up by the machine shop.
     
  3. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    biggest mistake, not breaking in engine properly , good way too waste all that money on engine build and not break it in properly, bet you drain the oil and its chunked full like glitter
     
  4. GlassHeadlights

    GlassHeadlights West West Yall

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    Nope I've done a couple oil changes and it seems fine, even took apart the first oil filter and no debris. Has tons of power also
     
  5. FLounder

    FLounder power hungry VIP

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    i have broken-in several built b series and it was always done hard, and on the dyno. and they always lasted a long time, while boosted. i would suspect its in the head. Last time my b16a head was worked, I replaced the valves, valve guides, and seals on the advice of my tuner when the head was at the machine shop.
     
  6. GlassHeadlights

    GlassHeadlights West West Yall

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    Yeah I could see some play in between the valves and valve guides due to the age of the motor. So I guess even with new valve seals some oil could pass by? I would love to just take the head off and just leave the block in the car, block build alone was $1200
     
  7. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Were the rings clocked correctly when it was rebuilt? One every motor I've seen that had valve sealing issues, the car smoked a bunch during cold starts due to oil seeping down.
     
  8. |Chaz|

    |Chaz| Well-Known Member VIP

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    I always think its funny when people say the problem is a bad break in. A hard break in won't hurt a motor. I've always heard a "grandma" break in period is worse than a hard break in period.
     
  9. dc4dude

    dc4dude Member

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    i had a similar issue with my older integra engine. deceleration sucks in oil from the head past the worn valve guides... its not so much the valve seals not sealing, its the valve guides allowing too much movement and oil into the combustion chamber.
     
  10. GlassHeadlights

    GlassHeadlights West West Yall

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    You mean the ring gaps were set apart from each other equally? I would assume so coming from one of the best machine shops from town haha.

    Ill try to get a video for you guys!!
     
  11. TurboMirage

    TurboMirage YEEAAAHHH VIP

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    by clocked, the ring gaps are not seated on top of each other, ie. staggered.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. GlassHeadlights

    GlassHeadlights West West Yall

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    That's what I was trying to explain haha, even I knew that, I'm sure it's standard knowledge for an engine builder
     
  13. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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    check your pcv valve. bill rebuilt his whole motor only to figure out it still burnt oil. lol
     
  14. B16

    B16 Super Moderator VIP

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    Yup, I vote PCV.
     
  15. GlassHeadlights

    GlassHeadlights West West Yall

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    PCV was changed about 30,000 ago for an oem Honda one, it only cost $7 so maybe it's worth the try
     
  16. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    Any news on the motor's status?
     
  17. GlassHeadlights

    GlassHeadlights West West Yall

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    No I havent looked into it, been busy and the car runs great haha, I'd like to get it sorted out some time though
     
  18. GlassHeadlights

    GlassHeadlights West West Yall

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    Did a track event today and I had my dad keeping a close eye on the exhaust, he said the only time it burnt oil was when I backed into my spot in the pits. Nothing during full acceleration or deceleration. Maybe the motor is getting better with more mileage on her, like I think I just rolled over 10,000kms or 6300 miles (2 regurarly scheduled oil changes). Ill keep watching but it may not be anything to worry about, it's just a civic...
     
  19. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    Just a Civic? Just a Civic??! JK

    Glad it seems better. Just keep an eye on oil disappearing.
     
  20. Magana559

    Magana559 The Warden

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    Just keep smashing the gas peddle, It will sort itself out lol.

    Sometimes the piston to wall clearance is too loose or even if the walls were honed too fine you will burn oil.

    I have always broken the engine in on a Dyno, first they tune out the Air to fuel then they smash on the gas.
     
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