red line

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Here is an idea.....Practice....Why don't you just go to a desserted road and practice. If you hear your tires squealing then you are revving too high. Oh and another thing about the ecu....swap the head to a b16 then you can stick with your p30 plus you have the benefits of vtec! damn what a concept.
 
You guys are correct it does run richer but it dont rev the balls off of it. Thats what the question was about, if it was safe to go past the stock redline even if it was a little bit.
 
hazzardboy95 said:
You guys are correct it does run richer but it dont rev the balls off of it. Thats what the question was about, if it was safe to go past the stock redline even if it was a little bit.
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none of us said richer. your still incorrect. your running LEAN. you have a higher air to gas ratio. there is more air than there should be. not enough gas. this is worse than running rich! take the time to read correctly.

Stock internals. Stock redline. Stock shift point. Typically 400rpm less than stated stock redline (not the start of the red area on your guage, which sometimes isnt right on).
 
YBLEGAL said:
none of us said richer. your still incorrect. your running LEAN. you have a higher air to gas ratio. there is more air than there should be. not enough gas. this is worse than running rich! take the time to read correctly.

Stock internals. Stock redline. Stock shift point. Typically 400rpm less than stated stock redline (not the start of the red area on your guage, which sometimes isnt right on).
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Actually some of us did say richer...

Are you sure on that? I figured it would be injecting more fuel on a B16 ECU, but I guess I could be wrong though, please correct me if I am...either way, the point is that running that ECU isn't a healthy way to boost performance on an LS engine. Like I said, it's akin to one of those E-Bay hack performance chips that you splice in. It's just messing with the air/fuel ratios and the timing...
 
aha! i didnt see you corrected yourself.

i would assume it would run leaner, since your running a 1.6 liter map on a 1.8 liter motor. more volume, same amount of gas. also, seems to me B16's run with more advance than the GSR i've looked at before. that's where i drew my logic
 
If it makes you guys feel any better, im looking at a spoon chipped p75. It is on ebay though which makes me a little skeptical but the seller has like a 95percent dealer rate. How much do you think i could sell this jdm p30 for?
 
hazzardboy95 said:
i have an air fuel guage and it runs richer.
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you mean you have a light show.. unless its a wideband, its useless

umm.. spoon chipped p75.. its most likely a generic chip thats gonna dump a bunch of fuel into the motor.. buy the correct ecu and a chipping kit.. have someone burn you a custom basemap for your setup
 
@OP:

You should buy my s300. Then you can rev the hell out of your engine, blow it up, and have launch control all with the same box.
 
hazzardboy95 said:
If it makes you guys feel any better, im looking at a spoon chipped p75. It is on ebay though which makes me a little skeptical but the seller has like a 95percent dealer rate. How much do you think i could sell this jdm p30 for?
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Link?
 
I dont feel like finding the link but its on ebay if you type in 1995 acura integra ls non-vtec in the parts and accesories column. Can anyone help me with my other thread, about the speed sensor, need help there in the worst way.
 
BrutalB83 said:
You are very right. I'm sorry, I was thinking rich and typed lean by mistake, my bad...

And I'm with you on the piggyback thing as well. I was just trying to lay out the "correct" tuning options as opposed to just throwing a different ECU at a motor and hoping it improves performance...
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actually they said rich...lol
 
hazzardboy95 said:
I dont feel like finding the link but its on ebay if you type in 1995 acura integra ls non-vtec in the parts and accesories column. Can anyone help me with my other thread, about the speed sensor, need help there in the worst way.
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This one maybe?

eBay Motors: CIVIC / INTEGRA LS NON VTEC OBD1 p75 SPOON SPORTS ECU (item 380010189477 end time Mar-31-08 08:29:16 PDT)

If so, I'd probably skip that as well. It sounds like they're just selling a P75 with a junk Ebay chip in it. It's got all the tell-tale signs..."increased air/fuel injection," "rev limit increased," "timing advanced." It would essentially be doing the same thing that the P30 is now...treating your engine like it's a different motor that's built to handle all that stuff.

Like we said earlier, the only thing you should really be looking into is having your stock ECU chipped and tuned on a dyno (or tuned with a piggyback) by a professional engine tuner. If you're thinking boost or built motor in the future than that's gonna be a necessity anyway. There really isn't a cheap solution that works well and is healthy for your motor when it comes to tuning.

If you're just running a pretty much stock motor with bolt-ons right now (which I think you are, correct me if I'm wrong) then really ECU tuning isn't necessary. At that stage of the game all you really need to do is reset your stock ECU and let it adjust to your mods, or just let readjust itself over time...
 
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hazzardboy95 said:
do you mean just have my ecu flashed, is that what your refering to.
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Flashing requires an OBD2 ECU. I'm talking about actually taking your ECU to a tuner or sending it in somewhere to have it fitted with a programmable chip and then having a tuner tune it on a dyno using Crome or whatever you (or the tuner) prefers.
 
dont want to intrude but i randomly jumped into this one, i have my cusin sitting right next to me with ironically this same setup b18a1 p30ecu for the last year, and we just came from the shop with his referbed D16 dohc head, zcdohcnontec i guess for short in jdm terms "idk hes doing the talkin im doing the writing:eek:" lol, which on a b18 give it slightly less power then GSR/B16vtech head with its p30 but thats his next step in a few months. so hes saids keep running how it is. your running rich most likely, because yur literally one cam gear tooth advanced, exsust valves open just befor bottom center on ignition stroke and in its intake stroke, valves are shut momentarily then intake opens, it only runs rich because of the lower compression. now racing 1st keep it safe its not worth the heat and damage you can do with the lightweight application, rev higher on 2nd and if your not killing your opponent by about 6.5k take it to 7.0-7.2 for a good power shot.. and you and 3rd you should be done with a 1/4 mile by the tym you hit a higher rev. "but then again hes got my civic lx 95 tranny y80" just had to throw that in there since we dont know you tranny ratio. ok back to what hes saying....:rolleyes:"youll be alright with your set up, but the power your feeling is because the piston is on its way down slightly before the ignition... =)
"and plz noone argue this cuz his friend and him :worthy: "whatever":glare: put this badboy together and his friend works for acura and hes got some kind of sensor computer thing made buy nissan <-"the devil, jkjk lol" that some how sences timeing and positioning and ignition by vibration and temp, its really cool. neways now for my problem if anyone can help im going to post a thread i got on cus i need help with my integra b18a1,ill have it up in about 10mins. plez help if you can and sorry for throwing that info on this thread. hope my cuzzin was a helpful hand!!!! :imgone:
 
First of all, your post was kind of confusing and hard to read. If you want to be taken seriously here than at least try to write legibly and use appropriate punctuation.

Second, if your friend/cousin/whoever actually does work for Acura, then he should know that using an incorrect ECU on a motor will cause it to run at less than peak performance. Maybe the OP's timing is off, I don't know, but either way, the P30 ECU isn't good for it.

Seriously, what's so hard to understand about this? Why would you run a computer meant for a high-revving, VTEC-equipped, 1.6 liter on a non-VTEC 1.8? Does that make any sense to you at all? Because it doesn't to me...

Third, you CANNOT USE A D16 ZC HEAD ON A B18 BLOCK!!!!! It won't bolt up, not even close! B-series and D-series heads and blocks DO NOT mix. The very fact that he said that tells me he's 100% full of shit and probably some fucktard ricer who thinks he's bad ass...

So what exactly does this guy do for Acura? Mop the bay floors? Sell cars? Unless he's a Honda certified master mechanic (which from what you've told me he's definitely NOT) then I really don't give a shit about his engine tuning advice...

And why is he using Nissan diagnostic equipment on Hondas???

:confused:

Sorry for arguing, but I could not in good conscience let that slip by...
 
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