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Replacing aftermarket springs

Discussion in 'Wheels / Suspension / Tires / Brakes' started by CiViC_SOHC, Aug 17, 2005.

  1. CiViC_SOHC

    CiViC_SOHC Senior Member

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    Ok I just want to start off saying I FINALLY GOT MY BRAKES DONE LOL...well fronts that is I had to drill out 3 of the 4 set screws. (little basterds) o ya and I broke one of my driver heads for my impact driver lol...ok so anyways! back to topic here. I have bought some skunk2 racing springs for my car for 125 dollars at a local performance shop around here (aeiperformance.com) and I need to know if I need a wall mounted spring compressor to put them on or not? I have KYB AGX adjustable shocks and some neon green lowering springs on there now...that came with my car and I want to switch the springs with my skunk2 ones I got...help me out like steps and if I can just slide them on? thanks!--anyone know what could be making a scratching noise in the front while im driving? im thinking its the dust sheild behind the rotor but I didn't bend that? im hoping its nothing that can damage my rotor!
     
  2. CiViC_SOHC

    CiViC_SOHC Senior Member

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    bump...I think someone should make a movable smiley for a bump...
     
  3. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    yeah, you'll need a spring compressor.

    not necessarily a wall mount--- they make portable ones that autozone rents-- but they suck ass.
     
  4. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    1) remove entire shock/spring assembly from car.

    2) using a spring compressor to hold the spring tight, remove the bolt hold the hat on.

    3) remove hat, and spring.

    4) replace spring with new one

    5) bolt hat back on.

    6) reinstall

    x 3

    You don't need a "wall mounted" spring compressor, a small hand held will work. But if you have "sport" springs, and are installing race springs, you probably won't even need one, since they are usually wound tighter, and therefor shorter. I have never needed to use one going from aftermarket to aftermarket, only to remove OEM springs.
     
  5. adnoh

    adnoh Senior Member

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    And while you're in there, remove the dust covers for your brakes...they're robbing you of ventilation :)
     
  6. CiViC_SOHC

    CiViC_SOHC Senior Member

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    so just remove the dust covers? I heard I shouldn't do taht cuase if a rock gets caughtt up there im screwed...
     
  7. CiViC_SOHC

    CiViC_SOHC Senior Member

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    im coming from some neon green aftermarket ones to skunk 2 ones...the springs I have on there now are kinda loose when I jack my car up.....I dunno im just gonna finsih my brakes lol should I buy a new axle or should I just reboot the one I have cuase its torn and its bugging me lol
     
  8. wanderinman

    wanderinman Senior Member

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    Not if he's already got lowering springs on there. There's no need to compress them unless you can tell they are putting tension on the top of the tower. I dont know the exact amount, but if its around a 1.5" drop or more you shouldn't need the compressor. Also if you said they are loose when you jack up the car you certainly dont need to compress them.

    As for your axle, it depends on how long its been torn, and what you've driven through. If its fairly recent and you've been outta the rain/dust etc, you should be ok just rebooting it, but if its been more than a week or two your probably safer just replacing the axle.
     
  9. CiViC_SOHC

    CiViC_SOHC Senior Member

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    ya its been torn for a while and ive driven through rain and dirt so im surprised its still working....im putting a Z6 in soon HOPEFULLY so should if I do need to replace them where should I get them from fairly cheap? all D-series use the same axles correct? and what do I need to do to remove the shocks? just the nut on the shock tower under the hood and in the trunk right? and do I need to get an alignement after I do that if so im gonna need to wait until I can afford it lol
     
  10. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

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    I have offed a few times, driven on many dirt roads, driven through a full Upper Pennusula of michigan winters and never had a problem with running no dust covers.


    To remove the front shocks, you need to remove the top 2 bolts from under the hood, then remove the shock fork (2 bolts). To put back on, you may need a floor jack to align the shock fork again (the lower control arm will swing down without and it is pretty heavy)

    For the rears. If you have a rear swaybar, remove the bolt that attaches the endlink to the LCA. Take off wheels. Take off the top 2 nuts from the trunk. Remove the LCA Bolt that links the LCA to the subframe, then the shock to LCA. Shock will drop. For reassembly, put antiseize on ALL your bolts.
     
  11. CiViC_SOHC

    CiViC_SOHC Senior Member

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    thx for that info but im not putting springs on yet cuase my damn brakes are still messed up...it sounds like my rotor is getting tore up its like a train sound (chuga chuga chuga) its weird I don't see any rubbing at all. Except for when I took the wheel off to check it in the first place it looks like one of my pads was stuck on the closed postion almost like my piston is staying closed...took it off and the piston was fine...but one of the boots to the slider bar has a hole in it could that cause the front pad to stay closed?---closed as in not realeasing from the pad...I have powerslot rotors and some Auto Advanced ceramics brake pads (tire rack didn't have the pads I wanted in)
     
  12. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    interesting

    i have never had to use a spring compressor when lowering a car...

    i just step on the spring on the ground and take off the hat with a gun... strut travels about a foot across the floor but nothing too major...

    and i've most certainly never had to use a spring compressor to get ANY lowering springs back on... and i've lowered many cars...
    all the way from 88-91 hatches to brand new SI's...
     
  13. phyregod

    phyregod !!YTINASNI

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    I use the same method here, I went and got the crappy auto-zone compressor and didn't even use it. I've done several vehicles as well.. I've never needed one on a honda/acura.
     
  14. b204dr

    b204dr Senior Member

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    i shoot my fronts off the car into a pillow or some thing of the sort- the rears i take off completly and shoot into a wall
     
  15. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

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    lol, when I had an integra shell in my garage, I needed the top hats so I just bolted the top hats in, and unscrewed the top bolt. The thing shot down on the floor hard enough to put a chip in the floor.
     
  16. CiViC_SOHC

    CiViC_SOHC Senior Member

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    well I got them on and its a noticable difference...I can actually pull out of my friends driveway now without needing blocks lol...it rides to much stiffer...so it took us like 45 mins...took us the extra 15 becuase the damn rear drivers side one of the nuts were stripped on the shock tower <_< but the process was so easy becuase the guy b4 me was nice enough to put anti-seaze on the bolts in the back LOL..so it was ez...took old springs off put new ones on and we were done...we just set the springs sideways and took the top nut off..no springing there..I had my shocks set at 4 also so they were pretty stiff lol
     
  17. evoracer03

    evoracer03 Senior Member

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    i shoot my fronts off the car into a pillow or some thing of the sort- the rears i take off completly and shoot into a wall
    [post=543570]Quoted post[/post]​
    [/quote]
    :werd:


    i shoot em at which ever one of my boys is doin more drinkin than helpin in the garage!!!
     
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