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return of the brakes

Discussion in 'Wheels / Suspension / Tires / Brakes' started by Capt. Orygun, Aug 10, 2007.

  1. Capt. Orygun

    Capt. Orygun Win the Day

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    so I did all the brakes on the teggy the first night and the drivers side rear brake ended up having a stripped rotor retention bolt

    I changed the pads that night and changed out the rotor the next day after I bought some easy outs

    I didn't have a new botl to replace it so I just used the one remianing and made sure it was level. then I put it all back together

    a day later that same brake during demanding braking makes a slight noise not unlike a little knocking on the sheet metal that's consistant with the roation of the wheel during braking, not very loud but it can be heard

    I'm thinking it's the lack of retianing screw in the rotor causing it to woble, but it seems like a petty problem

    it's to constant and to not like air to be air, any other thoughts?
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2007
  2. B16

    B16 Super Moderator VIP

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    You don't need that retainer bolt in the rotor. I just leave them out because I change my rotors so often. The wheel being torqued down keeps the rotor in place just fine.
     
  3. nootrac22

    nootrac22 Well-Known Member VIP

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    how bout wheel bearing. I know the rotors are warped on the front of the accord so I'm doing bearings to. Ive had the car for 70k+ miles, and who knows when they were done before that.
     
  4. Capt. Orygun

    Capt. Orygun Win the Day

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    alright

    I jacked it, took off the dust shield, caliper and rotor. Double checked the placement within the caliper of the brake pads. re secured the rotor using two brand new rotor retention bolts

    side bar
    *cameron walks into local honda service department*
    C: Hey can I get some rotor retaining bolts for a 97 integra?
    *lady looks at me puzzled*
    L: We don't even stalk Acura parts here sir...
    *cameron looks puzzled*
    C: Umm... Can I have some rotor retention bolts for a 99 civic SI?
    *lady smiles*
    L: Sure, they're 54 cents a piece

    WHAT THE FUCK MAN

    /sidebar

    any ways after a re-installation so careful it made my Air Force days proud I fired up the LS wonder and

    tap tap tap tap tap

    still there

    the sound is defiantly linked with the rotation of the wheel, and it is constant
    , always there unless the brakes are applied super lightly

    the GF thinks she can feel it, but I can only hear iy, either way it's a little tapping/knocking noise coming from the drivers side rear end

    sovle the riddle please
     
  5. B16

    B16 Super Moderator VIP

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    Like I said, its not because of the rotor retention bolts. Those are only to hold the rotor in place when the wheel is off. I wonder if something is warped, not finished on the rotor itself? Do you still have your old rotors? Throw them back on and see if you still have the noise.
     
  6. Capt. Orygun

    Capt. Orygun Win the Day

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    I tossed the old rotor, do you think the new one is warped? it doesn't make a scrape sound, more like a thumping sound
     
  7. Capt. Orygun

    Capt. Orygun Win the Day

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    more brake info

    It never knocks when the brakes aren't being applied and after some research I learned that it doesn't do it when the car is in reverse...

    any ideas?
     
  8. Capt. Orygun

    Capt. Orygun Win the Day

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    more info

    I jacked the car up an wiggled the wheel, the bearing appears to be intact
     
  9. phyregod

    phyregod !!YTINASNI

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    If you only have one retaining bolt in, it'll cause it to be off. Problem now is, you need to remove it and have the rotor re-turned because it will have warped the rotor being off by the few thousandths that it was.

    Otherwise, you'll remove the retainer and it'll still exhibit the same symptoms, except this time it'll be a warped rotor instead of a crooked rotor.

    So, remove the retaining bolts all together, re-surface the rotor, put it back together and smile.

    **edit.. Just read that you bought new retaining bolts, so be sure to clean the back of the rotor as well as the mating surface, and don't over-torque them.**
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2007
  10. Capt. Orygun

    Capt. Orygun Win the Day

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    well yes and no

    if you read you'll see that the left rear rotor was changed a day later

    I would think that that would be felt through the peddle though
     
  11. B16

    B16 Super Moderator VIP

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    I've never used those retainer bolts and never had warped rotors because of it. Some rotors only have 1 retainer bolt. It makes no difference, it is only there to hold the rotor in place when the wheel is off. The rotor is essentially torqued down by the lugs when the wheel is on.
     
  12. civicious

    civicious FüK-VTEC VIP

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    If you put the rotors on without machining them, chances are it's a warped rotor. Just because the rotor is brand new doesn't mean it's perfect. Unless you're running some sort of high-end brakes, you should ALWAYS turn the rotors before installation even if they're new.
     
  13. Capt. Orygun

    Capt. Orygun Win the Day

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    I took everything back apart today, had the rotor miced (good), checked everything for unusual wear and reinstalled everything with as much retention to detial as I could muster.

    I had thought maybe I didn't have the bump on the back of the inboard pad inside the recessed portion of the piston so I drew the piston back into the caliper

    all this work did nothing, it's still making the noise :-(

    could it have something to do with the e brake at all?
     
  14. Capt. Orygun

    Capt. Orygun Win the Day

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    do you guys think it could be a caliper?
     
  15. klyph

    klyph Dismember VIP

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    I have no way of helping you, but I share your frustration with the whole Honda/Acura bullshit. They don't cross-reference the parts at the stealership so that Acura can charge double for the same part. Assholes.
     
  16. johnercivic

    johnercivic New Member

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    I don't know if this helps, but I just recently replaced all my pads and rotors on my V6 Accord. When I started to drive it I could hear some awful grinding noise. I put it back on the lift and it turned out to be just the dust sheild. It's just some thin sheet metal and it had gotten bent during the process and was rubbing when I was driving. After that I gave the wheels a spin while it was still on the lift, I could still hear some suttle grinding. It just turned out to be some high spots on the rotor and/or pads (I think someone mentioned that above). After a little driving they smoothed out and the noise was gone. Hope this sheds some possible light on your problem.
     
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