Rex's D16y8 Build

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

My friends D15 crank, I am using the one from my a6. It's still in the engine running my crx daily. Scare you?
 
it will rust and then you will have to get it off..most likely scratching the crank
 
Yeah, Still scraping off the black paint from the other side of the block. No aircraft stripper because haven't had the cash. Working now so will be updating more soon. I looked into a Home Made Turbo setup but it looks like ebay would actually be more worth the money. Had a tire shred last week, just replaced it, rear rotors are warped to the point it squeaks horrifically. So, I will be ordering the cross drilled & slotted for the back and maybe a wideband soon. Cash is the main reason this thread is moving so slowly. Income tax was the plan but I will be picking up lots of the smaller parts until then. Anyways, new pics will be uploaded in a few days. Does it matter what wideband you install for tuning? Bosch/Aem?
 
INJEN78 said:
Mysterious Processes, Proven Results: Engine Builder
scroll down to "stress relief"
Click to expand...

good article. But they are saying that if you just let it sit you should let it sit for 2 years, I think that if you want to get "good" results you should do what they say. When they talk about heat and cold treatments they are all under computer controls to do it because to get a good heat/cold treatment it has to be highly precise. Good luck with that "seasoning", seems like something that would just make it so you have to clean the block again.
 
Before I got laid off I was using the Vibration method on all the large base metals that were welded to relieve stress. It was a small tool we attached to all the larger metals to keep them from warping. Worked damn good and had a meter to show when it was close to being finished, along with a timer. Seasoning through the winter and it can keep clean as long as no water gets inside and rust. They used cryogenics to flash freeze and yes it takes a lot less time than the other methods but most people do not have flash freezing or the vibration method as a resource.
 
riceracerex said:
Yeah, Still scraping off the black paint from the other side of the block. No aircraft stripper because haven't had the cash. Working now so will be updating more soon. I looked into a Home Made Turbo setup but it looks like ebay would actually be more worth the money. Had a tire shred last week, just replaced it, rear rotors are warped to the point it squeaks horrifically. So, I will be ordering the cross drilled & slotted for the back and maybe a wideband soon. Cash is the main reason this thread is moving so slowly. Income tax was the plan but I will be picking up lots of the smaller parts until then. Anyways, new pics will be uploaded in a few days. Does it matter what wideband you install for tuning? Bosch/Aem?
Click to expand...
i would use an aem wideband..as for the turbo,get most of the pieces from n ebay kit and you should only really have to replace the manifold,the only real problem with the actual turbo is that the oil seals tend to go bad,but if you get it rebuilt it shouldnt be a problem..

89hatchd15b said:
good article. But they are saying that if you just let it sit you should let it sit for 2 years, I think that if you want to get "good" results you should do what they say. When they talk about heat and cold treatments they are all under computer controls to do it because to get a good heat/cold treatment it has to be highly precise. Good luck with that "seasoning", seems like something that would just make it so you have to clean the block again.
Click to expand...
seeing how hes going to have to hone the block anyway seasoning is a good idea..
and the block should be dipped as well,also 2 years isnt exactly the time it takes,thats just how long they did it for,ive seen blocks start to season over night when left open.and the heat cycle is the natural cycle of the motor..you start it,let it get up to operating temp. then shut it off and let it cool down.and then repeat 3-4 times..
 
Cool, the Aem Eugo seems cheaper than the LC-1 setups I have seen. Not too worried about the gauges because I will be using the laptop in the entire time I am tuning. Thanks Injen, I will get it ordered in a week or two probably.
 
A analog Air/Fuel gauge with numbers instead of the pricey digital one? I just don't feel like paying 200.00 for the LC-1 and Gauge and I don't think I would need the software included.
 
Thank God, That shit is expensive. Well I am going to find a gun to do some powder coating soon to, so it will be done before I throw it in the engine bay. I seen one around 50bucks in one of the previous issues of Project Car Magazine with their Red Crx so I may try it. A friend of a friend donated an electric oven.
 
Would one of these suffice? 35 buck eBay special, Battery, o2, Air/Fuel, Turbo Timer:

AT-1-SLV_02.jpg
 
riceracerex said:
Would one of these suffice? 35 buck eBay special, Battery, o2, Air/Fuel, Turbo Timer:

AT-1-SLV_02.jpg
Click to expand...

I have one of these in my car. It took me about 20-30min to run the wires. It worked fine for a few weeks, then out of the blue it stopped keeping the car runnin when the key is out of the ignition. The timer counts down.. but the car is already off..
 
weird, so it just shuts off when you take the key out and the timer keeps going. I will try it and hope for the best. How does it read the Air/Fuel? Does it give an accurate reading like numbers for example or does it show bars to measure it? Glad to hear that it was easy to install. The easier, the better.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top