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at idel, on a stock map, honda's idel in the 14 to 16:1 range when warm. although it sounds bad, this is perfectly normal. (cold starts have a little different thing going on, so i'm not even going to get into that.)
if you're running rich on stock honda ecu, inejctors, and fuel pressure with no codes, it leads me to think something is clogged in the air flow path.
less air is actually getting in than what was accounted for, so your burn process runs rich. it happens through out the entire rpm band...
things to check:
02 sensor (but technically this should throw a code if its REALLY in the 9's as its out of the narrow band's voltage range of accuracy)
map sensor- check that the vacuum line isn't kiked, and that the port for the vac source isn't clogged or dirty.
dirty or misfiring injector. your car is old. if the injectors are stock, one could be failing and staying open too long. could also be a problem with your resistor box/wiring or the actual ecu. but these should throw codes...
check your timing. if your timing is off, everything is screwy. throw a light on there and make sure your base is around 16 degress advanced.
clogged cat. if the air can't get out fast enough, it will back-up and do wiered things. i wouldn't say it would make you run rich, but it could be a factor in the problem.
a very good posibility, is that the dyno's o2 meter is fucked up... but you do have a stumbling problem... so that's probably not the case.
wide band o2's don't last forever, and esp. if they see race/leaded fuel, they don't last long at all. have the dyno guy clean the o2 with a propane torch next time you go in. or, have a buddy with a known good running car do a couple pulls to validate the o2 (or just watch another customer's results)
all in all, i'd start with a simple can of injector cleaner in a tank a gas. run that through... see if it does anything. if not, $5 gone.. oh darn.
if that doesn't help, throw the imting light on it.. check your distributor marks, make sure you're at about 16* advanced at idel. if your idel is off or bouncing, it will be hard to get an accurate reading.
do a leak-down test. you might have a faulty valve or ring or something leaking in some crap and screwing up the mixture.
bleed your coolant system. you'd be suprised what an air pocket can do... coolant temp sensors can also be mis-leading. throw an ohm meter on that and get out your manual to see if its in the service limits.
check the tps. throw the ohm meter on it, and with a buddy in the car test it with key on, engine off, closed to wot voltage ranges. make sure its in the 0-5v spec.
drop the cat back at the cat, grabd a flash light and inspect the honey comb on the cat. if it apepars intact and not clogged, should be ok.
those are the free things i can think of...
try some of those out and let us know
