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?'s about a b16a stroker build w/ ls crank

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by metlmadman, Apr 4, 2007.

  1. metlmadman

    metlmadman noob member

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    hi guys, i'm new to hondaswap and i have a 89 rex ready for an engine. i tried to do a search for this with no luck, sorry if it was already answered and i was too noobish to see it.
    i have been playing with the idea of starting my build with a full b16a swap with a y1 lsd, then swapping the cams, pistons, intake/exhaust and brain from an ITR. then im thinking that i should get a b18a/b crank and aftermarket rods (crower or golden eagle) to try to make my poor mans b18c5 rather than deal with the block/head machining of a true ls/vtec frankenstein. my goal is to have a very streetable car that is not afraid of auto-x and time attack type driving. this will be my semi-daily driver. i want to keep it reliable but around 175-200whp with mostly Honda internals.

    now my questions are: will i need to machine the width of the piston end of the ls rod to accept the itr piston?

    has anyone else heard/seen/done this type of hybrid stroked engine? experiences with it?

    does anyone foresee any valve to piston clearance or CR probs (im aiming for 11.1 ish CR)?

    recommendations? i am very open to opinions as i am still undecided on a build
    thanks in advance for the help [​IMG]

    -reposted in proper forum
     
  2. jimboburgess

    jimboburgess Go fast, Go Cheap

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    i bet it would impact on the head with anything longer than a 128mm piston
     
  3. boostin4fun

    boostin4fun Boosted ls/vtec ohh yeah!

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    You have thrown out quite a few different ideas there. First off the ls or gsr crank are not going to work in the b16 w/o custom rods/pistons. Your best bet is to get a b16 complete swap to get the head and vtec transmission. Then sell the shortblock. Then I would get a ls block and crank and build that up. I recommend some new rods and pistons for reliability and higher compression.
     
  4. MikeBergy

    MikeBergy Blah blah blah....

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    Build an LS vtec. It is well documented on several websites, LS blocks are the most easily available and cheapest block to get your hands on, and you can source together parts for a kit that make it virtually plug and play. Stroking a b16 block is a waste of your time and money IMO.

    If you already have the b16, it's a great platform to start with - keep it, and if you decide you want more displacement, you are only an LS bottom end and a little machine work away from a great LS/Vtec hybrid. ITR pistons are not going to get you to the CR of 11.0:1 that you want in a b16a, and a better choice for tuning would be to get a socketed p28 with a custom tuned map. An ITR map would not work well for any b16.

    Also consider putting together a small turbo kit for a b16. You could have a very reliable, very responsive setup with your power goals for less than what you would spend on an LS/Vtec or all motor build, and you won't have to tear into the block at all.
     
  5. boostin4fun

    boostin4fun Boosted ls/vtec ohh yeah!

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    Im with him!
     
  6. metlmadman

    metlmadman noob member

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    thanks for the help guys. ill definately give more serious thought to the ls/crv build ups.
     
  7. metlmadman

    metlmadman noob member

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    hmm.... I've been comparing prices and info and I found Peak Performance Peak Performance - ENG19KIT Honda B16A 1.9 Liter Engine Kit does a LS type (89mm) stroker kit for the b16a for only $1500 balanced, with bearings, pistons with rings and pins, rods, crank and all new parts. I'd need a main bearing line-bore (i dont know how much a machine shop would charge for this). If I'm doing a line-bore, might as well get the girdle installed too. I think that I'd end up spending the same on just the parts w/o balancing for the LS frank engine. From what I'm seeing about doing the LS/vtec engine correctly, you need to ditch the rods and pistons anyways, why not get new parts and know that it'll be good for awhile? Plus I'd be hiding a 1.9L in a 1.6L block ;)
    So I guess my question is, do you guys still think that the LS bottom end would be better?
    and
    Has anyone dealt with Peak Performance? can anyone vouch for their products?
     
  8. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    I believe there was a kit similar to this on H-T but a different name. They had problems with leaking from the piston rings.
     
  9. MikeBergy

    MikeBergy Blah blah blah....

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    I've never dealt with Peak Performance, but I do know that you aren't going to spend 1500 to build an LS for your power goals. the stock bottom end is fully capable of supporting close to 300whp. Replacing the stock rod bolts with ARP rod bolts and resizing the stock rods is the only thing you have to do to the bottom end to support the revs at which a VTEC head is comfortable breathing, aside from the usual block freshening (rod and main bearings, a fresh hone, new seals, the usual "check for spec"). Oh, and an obd2 (96-00) oil pump. The oil pump for all late model b-series engines is the same, so it doesn't matter whether you buy a b18b, b18c, or b20 oil pump. I doubt buying an entire long block and the necessary rebuild parts would cost more than 1500. And you get the relief of knowing you have Honda reliability in your engine, rather than trusting in the aftermarket.

    for what it's worth, I am running 11.5:1 compression with a stock b16a oil pump on my build. I'm probably putting close to 160whp on a modified b18a head, and I'm going on 60k on the build with little worry about my bottom end. I rev to 7500 anytime, no problems.
     
  10. MikeBergy

    MikeBergy Blah blah blah....

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    1998 B18b, $600 HondaMarketPlace.com: Southern California: FS: 1998 obd2 LS b18b
    ARP Rod Bolts, $40 Honda-Tech.com: For Sale: FS PA: ARP Rod Bolts 1.2L-1.8L 8mm RBK-$40 shipped

    The oil pump that you'd want is already on the 96+ b18 block, so that's taken care of.
    I can't imagine that it would cast you more than 200 for a fresh hone, resize, and replacing of any bearings. An OEM gasket kit will set you back around 200, but you'll have a practically brand new engine for ~$1200.

    Just do your research, and I'm sure you'll be fine with whatever route you choose.
     
  11. metlmadman

    metlmadman noob member

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    thanx alot for all the input - still weighing the pros and cons of all my options out there.
     
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