safe boost?

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As to ebay stuff, I sourced most of my parts from there. Stay away from the turbo headers, get a cast one. I also have the tial knockoff and other then having sent it with the wrong spring it works great. A bunch of people are also selling oil line kits there.
 
I sourced a lot of my parts off ebay, got the turbo off ebay and the .60 housing, fuel pump, ecu, a few other things here and there. I used on internal gate on my last setup (that was more of a mistake then buying an ebay wg).

The BOV I got off ebay was pretty much garbage, I'm not saying they all are but stay away from the cheaper ones, you get what you pay for.
 
I'm not sure about the whole spontaneous combustion thing
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see the problem with detionation in say a stock b16 or b18c or any none turbo motor is that one count of knock could blow ur motor where as in something like a dsm, there made for turbo, so they can handle the heat from detonation, and usually one of the reasons turbo cars use higher octane fuel
 
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you would run with ur stock GSR engine stock bone to 10 psi w a good reliability, just you can blow your engine runing to 3-4 psi.. you need to tune it good and you will run very safe to 10 psi . too it depends what setup do you choise to go for.
 
kkid28 said:
Well pressure is basically extra air
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no, its not.

pressure is the measurement of force of air NOT getting into the motor, as measured at the map sensor.

pressure (psi) and volume (cfm) are NOT similar units of measurement


if there isn't enough fuel the engine heats up quicker which (if you're stupid enough to not notice) could melt the engine components together.
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while this is somewhat true, its egadderating at best.

air doesn't compress on its on. blow up a balloon, and squeeze it. chances are it won't pop, but the air moves around to fill the other areas. the air stays the same.

when you fill the combustion chamber with air, and then the piston comes up- the area for that air to go to doesn't exist (cyl walls aren't flexible like a baloon).
the air will not ignite on its own. it needs the fuel in there to burn it away and create the power stroke.
if there's SOME fuel there, it will combust some of it, but there's still un-burt air in there that has no where to go.
This leads to detonation and the ultimate demise of your motor snapping rods and blowing out the cyl. walls through the block.
 
this guy that owns a perfomance shop here (ruben) had a bone stock gsr in a eg had a cusom turbo setup with inj, fpr, pump on 12lbs ran a 12.1 on slicks..........you have to remember he owns a shop and he is one hell of a tuner so the car had been completly tuned.....about everyday i would say get a boost controller and set one at like 7-8 lbs then another setting at like 9-11lbs for the track or a sat night with a mustang talkin sh$t....good luck
 
why dont you get it?????? LBS/ PSI MEANS NOTHING WHEN YOUR NOT TALKING ABOUT A SPECIFIC TURBO!!! im running 12psi on my stock civic ex does that mean im going to run 12's?
 
You don't have to be a "hell of a tuner" to run 7-8 or 9-11 pounds of boost, you just have to be careful and smart about it. Enough fuel, careful timing and you are there, if you are running a stock short block you just don't have a lot or room for mistakes. I'm running 11 psi on a single slam that I chipped, turboedited and logged with just a NB O2.
 
ya need to be tuned so you can map out your atof and your timing..im sure that the single and the other engine run great but for how long....just my opinion one shoud get tuned to run that kind of boost regularly for a long time ya know like a year two or maybe three years....i just know what i know but what i know could be very wrong and i might be getting this guy to spend money on tunning when he doesnt need to...but you would have to agree to run the right setup and get the most power out of you engine safely you shoud get your car tuned...
 
Well at this point I have almost a year at 11psi with a T3/T04e 57 trim without any issues other then blowing off hoses. I do agree with you in that if I wanted to run it closer to the edge I would get it tuned but my current weak link is the clutch so it does not make any sense to try and get any more hp and torque out of it. During the Christmas holidays I'm swapping in a B16 and then the tuning starts again to get a solid map for it, being that I will be putting in a harsh clutch and I don't want to have a meltdown when I turn it up.
 
it wouldnt make sense if your weak link is the clutch to make more power you couldnt use the extra power anyway but what setup are you going to use on your b16
 
T3/T4 57 trim turbo, 880 injectors, Arp studs and rod bolts, stock short block. GSR cams, 255 pump, 2.5/ 3.0 piping. Stage III clutch and aluminum flywheel, I have chipped the ecu and have started using BRE for the tuning. Currently I have been using Turboedit. Without too much trouble on pump gas I will end up with right around 300 horse.
 
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