hcivic.com
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How to shave handles locks and crap 101
It only took me 2 months to get off my ass and do this but here ya go.
First and foremost have the space to do this and the time, any one can do it as long as you take your time and have a good sized clean work space.
Step one gather up all the needed crap
Paint stripper (either a 3m disk flap disk or a paint stripper), Primer both normal and a high build (try to use a different colour high build it will double as a shadow coat), A good rust killer/ metal sealer, Body filler (I use a product called Z-Grip, or Rage Gold), Wax and grease remover, and a spray bottle with a drop of soap and water.
Tools: Welder, Grinder, Tin snips, Body hammers and anvils (one good hammer, a sand bag, and a couple pieces of scrap can work in their place), Body filler tools (mix board and crap)
Step 2
Remove the lock mechanism with a 10mm socket and extension as well as an impact driver to remove the 2 Philips screws at the back of the door. You will need to modify it so you can still use the inside handles and keep the lock mechanism form engaging.
The black arrows show the lock mechanism they can both be removed and the lock mechanism can be welded, riveted, or glued to prevent it from engaging. The red arrow is the old rod for the handle remove it and attach the actuator to the same location. (sorry about the shitty pic I will take some new ones next week with more detail). Then reinstall the mechanism and the new actuators and pulleys etc.
Step 3
Prep the door surface for the patch panel. Remove the paint down to bare metal (I use a stripper to get the paint out of the grove than a flap disk to help feather edge in the old paint. If using stripper make sure to mask of the surrounding areas. This whole process can be done with the door on or off the car. Leaving it on will be the easiest method if you have never adjusted a door before. I had the doors off to do the suicide hinges anyhow
Step 4
Next grab some thin cardboard and cut a patch panel to fit the opening. Test fit the cut out
And keep trimming until it is perfect, you will be using this to trace out the sheet.
Step 5
After you have the sheet cut out you need to shape/ curve it to the contours of the door. This is where the dolleys, hammer, sandbag and your knee come into it. Take your time and make it fit nice and snug.
Step 6 (no pics of the welding sorry wasn’t gonna risk the camera around any slag)
Weld the patch in. tack up the four corners first. Top right, bottom left, bottom right, top left. Then tack the panel up every 1-2 inches working your way around until you have it welded up nicely. The key too this step is take your time and DO NOT LET IT GET HOT OR IT WILL WARP.
That’s it for part 1 I will do up part two today or the next day
It only took me 2 months to get off my ass and do this but here ya go.
First and foremost have the space to do this and the time, any one can do it as long as you take your time and have a good sized clean work space.
Step one gather up all the needed crap
Paint stripper (either a 3m disk flap disk or a paint stripper), Primer both normal and a high build (try to use a different colour high build it will double as a shadow coat), A good rust killer/ metal sealer, Body filler (I use a product called Z-Grip, or Rage Gold), Wax and grease remover, and a spray bottle with a drop of soap and water.
Tools: Welder, Grinder, Tin snips, Body hammers and anvils (one good hammer, a sand bag, and a couple pieces of scrap can work in their place), Body filler tools (mix board and crap)
Step 2
Remove the lock mechanism with a 10mm socket and extension as well as an impact driver to remove the 2 Philips screws at the back of the door. You will need to modify it so you can still use the inside handles and keep the lock mechanism form engaging.
The black arrows show the lock mechanism they can both be removed and the lock mechanism can be welded, riveted, or glued to prevent it from engaging. The red arrow is the old rod for the handle remove it and attach the actuator to the same location. (sorry about the shitty pic I will take some new ones next week with more detail). Then reinstall the mechanism and the new actuators and pulleys etc.
Step 3
Prep the door surface for the patch panel. Remove the paint down to bare metal (I use a stripper to get the paint out of the grove than a flap disk to help feather edge in the old paint. If using stripper make sure to mask of the surrounding areas. This whole process can be done with the door on or off the car. Leaving it on will be the easiest method if you have never adjusted a door before. I had the doors off to do the suicide hinges anyhow
Step 4
Next grab some thin cardboard and cut a patch panel to fit the opening. Test fit the cut out
And keep trimming until it is perfect, you will be using this to trace out the sheet.
Step 5
After you have the sheet cut out you need to shape/ curve it to the contours of the door. This is where the dolleys, hammer, sandbag and your knee come into it. Take your time and make it fit nice and snug.
Step 6 (no pics of the welding sorry wasn’t gonna risk the camera around any slag)
Weld the patch in. tack up the four corners first. Top right, bottom left, bottom right, top left. Then tack the panel up every 1-2 inches working your way around until you have it welded up nicely. The key too this step is take your time and DO NOT LET IT GET HOT OR IT WILL WARP.
That’s it for part 1 I will do up part two today or the next day
