Should I Go With B18 Or B20?

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ls/vtec's don't rev as well as gsr/R blocks....

and while ls/vtec's make power i'm not a fan because its not oem which makes them less reliable...given that fact they are still great engines when built correctly and tuned immediately.

the R block is the best b-series motor, and it does have an OEM girdle, stock. i like the R block (and its the reason i bought a brand new one from honda) because its made by honda which means the clearances are perfect and its guaranteed for a year.

of course the debate will rage on although i think it comes down to a matter of reliability vs performance vs price.
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Jun 6 2003, 02:44 AM
the gsr block is the best honda block out there. hands down.
yes, even better than the ITR. IMO, of course.

why?
-it's a b-series
-oem block girlde, not found in any other b-series
-oil sqquiters that ls/crv block don't have that help reduce heat in the combustion chamber that leads to detonation
- its rod/storke ratio is a near perfect blend of being on the torquey side, as well as being on the rev-happy side.


look around- the fastest cars out there all run gsr's.

lisa kubo, ed burgenholtz, mike laskey, etc, all running 8s and 9s. they aren't in itr's, and they aren't in b20/vtec's.

i don't include steph pap, cuz frankly, an nsx motor is NOT the same class.

Uh... more than just the GSR blocks have the OEM girdle. The ITR definitely has one. It bridges the same 3 main bearing caps that the GSR unit goes over. Wouldn't it make sense for Honda to use a girdle on an engine that shares the same geometry as a "lesser" engine in the lineup, especially when it revs even higher?
 
Originally posted by lsvtec@Jun 6 2003, 12:13 PM
Lisa Kubo doesn't run any Honda engine anymore...
The rest of these arguments do no apply for several reasons:
1. They are all running boost.
2. Show me a well built NA engine without oil squirters that failed specifically because it did not have the squirters.
3. Again show me a well built NA engine without a girdle running to 8200 RPM that failed specifically because it did not have a girdle.
4. As stated before prove that me that a 1.54:1 ratio is significantly more detremental to the life of an engine than 1.58:1.

and in response to this....

I didn't know lisa doesn't run honda anymore.. im out of it... but last year or the year before she did, and it was a gsrt/.

1. he wants to run 9-12's. to me, that means boost.
2. again, i was talking boost. with the oil squiters, it keeps temps down.
3. the girdle is just extra protection.... i never said it failed
4. it's not about the r/s ratio. its the block as a whole.

IMO, ls crank in a gsr block is the way to go for that kinda thing... but it gets expensive to do so.
 
I missed the 9-12 second mark. Yeah, there is no way to do that NA in a street car.

Lisa Kubo now runs a Saturn Ion. :thumbsdown: There was a big article on it in SCC two months ago.

How about this build then:
GSR Block (ITR block would work but why spend the money when you are going to throw out the rotating assembly anyways) sleeved to 84mm for boost, 85 or 86mm for NA
Crower crank with a 92mm stroke.
Endyn strutted pistons (going to have to be custom because you want the wrist pin moved as close to the top of the piston as it can safely)
Custom rods for the right length (this setup should have about a 1.5:1 R/S ratio)

This way you get the factory girdle, and the oil squirters.
 
Originally posted by lsvtec@Jun 11 2003, 10:57 AM
I missed the 9-12 second mark. Yeah, there is no way to do that NA in a street car.

Lisa Kubo now runs a Saturn Ion. :thumbsdown: There was a big article on it in SCC two months ago.

How about this build then:
GSR Block (ITR block would work but why spend the money when you are going to throw out the rotating assembly anyways) sleeved to 84mm for boost, 85 or 86mm for NA
Crower crank with a 92mm stroke.
Endyn strutted pistons (going to have to be custom because you want the wrist pin moved as close to the top of the piston as it can safely)
Custom rods for the right length (this setup should have about a 1.5:1 R/S ratio)

This way you get the factory girdle, and the oil squirters.

r/s ratio would be 1.47(worse than the b21 haha), and the rods you would need are 135.5mm long.
 
Where do you get that? What rods are you using? Did you completely ignore half of what I said???
Crower crank with a 92mm stroke.
Endyn strutted pistons (going to have to be custom because you want the wrist pin moved as close to the top of the piston as it can safely)
Custom rods for the right length (this setup should have about a 1.5:1 R/S ratio)

Do yourself a favor and read the whole post before you flame so you don't look so clueless.
 
ok i didnt see the pistons. ok i calculated the r/s ratio and rod if you were to move the pin up 2cm(if possible) and got r/s=1.69; 155.5mm rods, and for 1 cm up on piston r/s=1.58; 145.5mm rods. pretty good.
 
With the Endyn pistons you can run 137mm rods (maybe even 138) keeping the bottom end geometry within usesable range and give yourself more torque.
 
Another thing...I wanna put Turbo on this engine and I wanted to know which one should I use...
 
Go with gs-r engine, sleeve and make it a turbo monster and use a integra ls tranny with some lsd. And gs-r are the best engine.
 
:roll: Here we go again.
Best for what??? You want to clairify that or are you going to just throw out a blanket statement? Straight NA build, ITR is better.
 
Originally posted by lsvtec@Jun 14 2003, 09:53 PM
Straight NA build, ITR is better.

hehehe hell yeah it is :D
 
worst thread ever.

n00bs- do some fucking reading before you post "I want the best engine, and I want to turbo it"
cuz i'm fucking sick of it.

there;s 99999999999 million ways to build a motor. Read, and choose one.

locked.

start a new topic after you do some reading.
 
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