skunk2 p28 ecu chip

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YBLEGAL said:
no dude your running on closed loop mode. this is retarded

it's running off your ecu's fixed ignition and fuel tables.

your missing out on horsepower

obviously losing gas milage.

that's retarded. no body should drive around like that.
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na dude its tuned weve been haven gas problems ever since the f20b block dentinated or how eva u spell it
 
ninjafoo said:
na dude its tuned weve been haven gas problems ever since the f20b block dentinated or how eva u spell it
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that doesnt mean you shouldnt run no o2 sensor.

the o2 will retune the ecu on the fly for density, humidity, temperature, and other envornmental factors that change the a/f.

a tune is like having a very acurate base map for the ecu to work off of.
 
HATCHET_HONDA said:
so i was looking into chipping my p28 ecu. i was reading the functions of the chip and noticed the skunk2 disables the o2 sensor. how and why would this benefit performance?? not only would that eat up gas but kiss passing emmission testing goobye for sure. anyone ever installed one with favorable results?
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I bet it disables one of the O2 sensors.... If you are running OBD2.
My Hondata does this so I only have to run 1 O2 sensor but I have an illegal head swap... Block is OBD2B and the head is OBD1.
 
Blanco said:
Absolutely. That's why I put "stage two" in quotations. :)

(Just talking at this point, YB.)
That said, a manufacturer's "stage two" style cam will make more power than their mild "stage one" cam and will respond well to head modifications while not requiring them like more aggressive "stage three", "3/4 race", or "full race" cam profiles. (Boy, that was one helluva sentence. :D) So, the average consumer that doesn't want to do anything other than a cam swap can be confident that a "stage one" profile will work well in their engine.

When you step up from there you want to start looking at high duration/low lift or high lift/low duration and which specs for the given style would be best for your needs. Typically you want high lift/low duration for forced induction application and high duration/low lift for all-motor applications. With f/i you want the valves to open up really big so the engine can take a deep breath, but high duration would allow that breath the get blown right out of the exhaust ports. With all-motor, it's that long duration that helps suck all of the spent charge out of the cylinder while helping to suck the new charge in at the same time. Then the real fun begins, picking the exact profile. This cam might offer more midrange where this other cam will offer more top-end.

Using my dyno again, the 59300 cam is high lift/low duration and its profile provides a lot of midrange. You can see that I picked up almost 10whp in the midrange from the baseline run to the final tune. Now, something like the Crower Stage 2, which is high duration/low lift, would provide a fatter power curve up top and maybe even a few more peak ponies. I like midrange and it suits the 90mm D16 stroke well, so I went with the 59300. I'm really tempted to see what this cam can pull all-motor, but I got it for the eventual GReddy turbo kit.
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well im goin all motor on this one.... you know.. i was checkin the specs and it does seem like stage 1 is just a lil over stock. i gotta do some research on diff companies and such. im lookin for a mid range boost so im hopin i can find one that fits my needs.
 
integraslut78 said:
I bet it disables one of the O2 sensors.... If you are running OBD2.
My Hondata does this so I only have to run 1 O2 sensor but I have an illegal head swap... Block is OBD2B and the head is OBD1.
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actually, OBD1 just uses one o2 sensor.

i'd bet money you have an OBD1 ecu to drive that OBD1 dizzy on that head. which is why only 1 o2 sensor is required.
 
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