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Skunk2 Pro2+ Cams

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by becoming, Jul 29, 2005.

  1. becoming

    becoming Member

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    I was wondering if there were anyone out there with the Skunk2 Pro 2+ cams in there car yet? And if so, what kind of power increase did you see from them? Knowing what is done to your motor would also help in comparison also. I am highly considering them due to reports I have seen on them claiming 27-32 HP {from 5K RPM to redline} on a 2.0 Ltr motor with 10.75:1 CR. So if anyone wants to share some numbers, it would be graetly appreciated!
     
  2. sohcslammer

    sohcslammer Senior Member

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    Get 'em.

    I know a lot of people in "the Biz" (own their own tuning shops) and they are the hottest new cam out by far. I was first going to go with the crower 404s. Then I realized that the buddy club spec IVs were even better. Now I'm looking at the pro2s.

    The buddy club's supposedly make a tad more in the midrange but the pro2s pull harder, higher up. And both these cams make GOBS of power ALL OVER the rpm range. Most cams are a trade off, lose power down low to gain some up top. Not with these bad boys. I know someone that switched from the CTR cams to the Buddy club 4s and he saw something like 20 hp at around 5000 rpms. Even more up top. (This is on a 12:1 2 litre)

    The skunk2 Pro line is really making a name for itself. I have never been a s2 fan but the numbers don't lie. They are one of the best cams you can buy IMO if you have the compression to run them.

    Let us know how they are! :thumbsup:
     
  3. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    the biggest advantage of the pro-line is that not only are they a godo top-end cam, but the non-vtec lobe is also altered for performance instead of fuel economy, giving an entire broader power curve
     
  4. becoming

    becoming Member

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    But here is the X-factor...I have a 98 LS bottom end, with a Pro CNC girdle in it, and a 95 GSR head with crower dual springs, Ti retainers, Ti keepers, and ferrea valves. I have done a "mild" port and pollish job all the way down to the valve seats just to basically "smooth" everything out, and put a "knife edge" on the intake runner seperator thing in the intake port to help flow. It has also been shaved .005 to just get a good clean surface on it.

    And the article I saw them in was the Import Turner, August issue. The test motor was a GSR block with a stock B16 head to test the cams with. I "know" my head will flow better than the head in that particular test, but am i to expect the horsepower figures that they got? My guess is 'of course not, but i have never built an all-motor car{always turbo} and I am still debating on whether to go ahead and turbo the motor in question, or put it on my LS swap in my del Sol...which I am leaning more towards.{turbo in del Sol} Because another mod I have always wanted to do was ITB's, which I would do if I go all-motor in my hatch with some cams like this, IF they can give me the power i want from them. So basically tell what you think they would do in my motor described up top, and help me make a BIG decision to whether go all-motor LSVTEC, or just turbo it?
     
  5. sohcslammer

    sohcslammer Senior Member

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    What c/r are you running?

    All motor is defnetly the expensive way to go slow, but there is nothing like beating up on supercharged v8s with you all motor 4 cylinder.

    If you have done turbo in the past, switch it up and join the all-motor camp. Quite a bit of power can be pulled from these b series without boost, I've seen 250+ with my own eyes. I plan on hitting 220 wheel in mine and it's not even a 2L.
     
  6. becoming

    becoming Member

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    C/r "should" be in the range of 9.74:1 or so, assuming that the head had never been shaved before I had it done. I'm using standard compression valves right now, but if i get hard itno this going n/a route, I will change to high comp. valves. Because right now, i'm really torn between n/a and turbo because the turbo is in my floor waiting to be put back on something, and there is no way in hell it's goin on my other hatch with a SOHC vtec motor in it, when i have this LSVTEC in my green EG!! And my del Sol won't be ready for another 2-4 months or so :(

    I just don't want to be REALY disappointed when i spend 6-8 hundred on a set of cams then pull them out b/c it sucks to me.
     
  7. becoming

    becoming Member

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    OHH YEA and btw, i have not even put a header on this motor yet b/c i was gonna do turbo's on both cars{92 EG & 93 del Sol} so if you guys have any suggestions, drop them too...I figured on going DC 4-1, heard it's pretty good!?
     
  8. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    these cams, like most larger cams, will make dick for power under 11:1 compression.

    look intot he 11.5-12:1 compression, if not more to actually make use of the cam.

    dc headers aren't anything to brag about... theres a lot better, and if you're going hardcore all motor with itb's, throwing a dc sports header on is like trying to rally race with slicks on.
     
  9. sohcslammer

    sohcslammer Senior Member

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    :withstupid:

    All-motor is a comitment, you can't do it half-assed. On one hand you are in the right direction with pro series cams and ITBs.

    Then you make a complete 180 with your 9:1 c/r and dc sports header.

    B is right, unless you are over 11:1, the car is stock, or set up for turbo. You need compression to see any kind of real gain off those cams. 12:1 should be perfect.

    As for a header, there are really only a few companies I would consider -

    #1) Hy-tech - $700-$1300 depending on shelf header or custom

    #2) SMSP - @$600

    #3) DTR - @$800

    #4) RMF - Not sure on price... anyone else know?

    #5) Bizimoto - Not sure on price either
    **begrudingly adds bizimoto header under duress from friends**

    That's it. These guys are the bad boys of headers. Yes, there are other good headers. Toda, comptech, an-r, etc..... but those headers listed will give you more hp on a built motor, consistantly, every time.
     
  10. becoming

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    NOT to disagree at all with the more compression=more power direction you are saying that "one" needs to go to get power out of an all-motor setup, BUT these cams did make 27-32 HP from 5500 RPM to redline{in this test was 8000, stock B16 head} on only 10.75:1 CR......So there is power in them without an 11:1 or 12:1 CR motor as the destination of the said cams. I realize that the cams would do more power, possibly, on a more suitible motor{more compression}, BUT I also realize that they would also make more power on a motor with less compression. I am just trying to find an answer{a gestimate at best, I know} from more educated people than me on this particular application, But for the time being, I am limited to staying at the sub-10:1 CR I have at the current time.
     
  11. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Well, with the lower compression you can still make really good power- it's all about ignition timing. Get all your fuel maps trimmed in, then start playing with your timing maps and everything will come together.
     
  12. becoming

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    Well I guess that was more of the answer I was looking for, And for the most part I think I will end up with these cams.....But as far as how much power i get with them, what kind of HP in an all-motor set-up is it gonna take to get down into the 12's.....I have always done turbo, so I have no idea how to relate boosted power to all-motor power...
     
  13. sohcslammer

    sohcslammer Senior Member

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    My friend went 12.7 @ 111 in a gutted EG hatch with 206 wheel hp.

    Gut your car. Make 200whp. Learn to launch. Presto - 12 second passes.
     
  14. becoming

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    Well it's already gutted, with a 4 point Kirk Racing roll cage{Soon to be 6} Because I seem to have an infactuation with safety! So that sorta evens out pretty close, but I started looking into new pistons today to go into my block, and have an idea what design I want to go with. I assume you have seen the "skirtless" pistons that are supposed to reduce friction and "make" more power due to the less friction!? I was thinking about 11:1 to 11.3:1 compression pistons so that it would end up, with my GSR head, around 11.2:1 to 11.5:1 CR. But am curios to the rod to use, as far as a light-weight rod that will hold up to all-motor power. I know i'm gettin off the started subject, but I guess there is no problem with doing that I guess....lol. But I heard Pauter Machine makes a strong light rod for all-motor.....any suggestions?
     
  15. sohcslammer

    sohcslammer Senior Member

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    Pauter, oliver, probe, crower. That's about it. I think Scat's are great for the price, especially for all motor apps.
     
  16. 97CTR

    97CTR Senior Member

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    I'm using some I-beam probe ultralights from Import Builders. They are some of the lightest around, and working well for me.

    Pauter is a good rod though.
     
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