Sleeving Vs. Block Guard

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TurboRex90

Golden EG
I've been trying to find out information on having a block Sleeved compared to having a block guard installed but coming up dry. I cant seem to figure out companies that make sleeves or gaurds besides Darton, i went on their site and i was confused to hell by there charts between Dry sleeving with flange or no flange and all the different measurments. Please help me work some sense out of all this and explain the difference/ benefits/procedure etc.

Thanks guys
 
Golden Eagle is popular for sleeving, as well as Darton. Block guards, as anyone will tell you, will cause hot spots and restrict coolant flow. Money spent on sleeves, depending on your goals, is money well spent.

Ask yourself, how much power are you wanting and would this be for a D or B series? A D series can safely handle 250 on stock sleeves, though I wouldn't push it that high. A B series will handle up to 350 I believe and I also believe and guys, please correct me if I am wrong, is able to be boosted up to 350 (perhaps a little less) on stock, bottom end components.
 
If sleeves are a must, Benson is one of the top.

+1, dont waste the money on a block gaurd.
 
Golden Eagle is popular for sleeving, as well as Darton. Block guards, as anyone will tell you, will cause hot spots and restrict coolant flow. Money spent on sleeves, depending on your goals, is money well spent.

Ask yourself, how much power are you wanting and would this be for a D or B series? A D series can safely handle 250 on stock sleeves, though I wouldn't push it that high. A B series will handle up to 350 I believe and I also believe and guys, please correct me if I am wrong, is able to be boosted up to 350 (perhaps a little less) on stock, bottom end components.


It's for a D series. Im already making 240 whp on stock sleeves and forged internals at 19 psi. Though i dont run 19 all day long i have high/low progressive boost on my tune. But yeah, whats the price ranges for sleeves/ installation.
 
Block guards do not necessarily cause hot spots. So far, there's only been speculation but I've never seen any issues.

The difference is block guards support the sleeve while sleeving replaces the sleeve with stronger material. In other words, block guards help prevent the sleeves from moving around; which is not really a problem in our motors. If your cylinder pressures are high enough it would still rupture the cylinder with a block guard.
 
Block guards do not necessarily cause hot spots. So far, there's only been speculation but I've never seen any issues.

The difference is block guards support the sleeve while sleeving replaces the sleeve with stronger material. In other words, block guards help prevent the sleeves from moving around; which is not really a problem in our motors. If your cylinder pressures are high enough it would still rupture the cylinder with a block guard.

This is why I appreciate others feedback around here. I learn something new all of the time. For quite a while I have always read that block guards cause hot spots and there for should not be used.

That is a great definition, Kevin. Thank you. :thumbsup:
 
Its quite expensive to get a blocked sleeved im guessing, not to sound like a noob cake. But hmm. idk if i wanna save for sleeves or get a guard, my power goal is to be about 350whp as my daily driver. There are other things i wanna have done like swap pistons because i currently have vitara's 8.5:1 cp but i want some d16A6 pistons because my compression will be around 10.4:1 cp. I need a few new valve train components, a new manifold (as Luis has already seen my thread) and a new turbo, but i dont know what to save up for first.. Any suggestions?
 
block gaurds only help so your sleeves dont expanded but sleevs will let you run more boost and of coarse they r way stronger
 
block gaurds only help so your sleeves dont expanded but sleevs will let you run more boost and of coarse they r way stronger

Your sleeves won't expand..... A block guard stops cylinder walk at high RPM's. Meaning that your stock sleeves, when the piston is at TDC on that cylinder, can make the top of the sleeve move slightly because of the high RPM, and can lead to cracking. Or that's what they say, like it was stated above, CERTAIN block guards can cause hot spots and will also lead to cracking, so with that said, save your money and sleeve the block. Even Pauter rods will crack before Ductile Iron Sleeves will.
 
IMO, for a d-series, run it till it breaks. you can buy literally 5-7 blocks for the cost it will take to sleeve once.

block guards are not worth it at all.
 
There's people using block guards on high power setups. As long as the block guard does not block the coolant passage(which most do not), you'll be fine. If anything, it would cause cool spots due to metals being a better conductor of heat(aluminum is about 400% more conductive than water) and you're increasing the surface area of the metal in the coolant passage(think of the purpose of a heat sink).

The stress is not at TDC; BDC and TDC is where there's the least amount of stress; but rather it's in between those strokes where the rod is at the greatest angle. This is why block guards and sleeves like GE's have the support at the middle of the block.

Cracked sleeves is usually due to weaker sleeve in general; not block guards. You have guys without block guards cracking sleeves.

There's quite a few people who run multiple D-blocks instead of building them up. The biggest draw back, of course, is time. Also, after a while, cost may be an issue.
 
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