Smoke an SRT-4

[reikoshea]

The reason honda drivers hate SRT's so much is because the neon has traditionaly been despised by honda owners as being 'sub par'. Now that their is a turbo version out there, it sickens the honda community.

They are still sub par. with that much displacement and a turbo they should be SO MUCH BETTER.

 

[Abrasintegra]

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The reason honda drivers hate SRT's so much is because the neon has traditionaly been despised by honda owners as being 'sub par'. Now that their is a turbo version out there, it sickens the honda community.

They are still sub par. with that much displacement and a turbo they should be SO MUCH BETTER.

I can't get the image out of my head of when the neon was first intoduced to the market... now everytime I see them I feel like they need the cute little "HI" above them...

 

[Cashizslick]

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They are still sub par. with that much displacement and a turbo they should be SO MUCH BETTER.

2 mods: Boost Controler & fuel pump.


= bye bye hondas

 

[Abrasintegra]

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Alright I'll take your word on the vafc being a bad idea with nitrous, and the Xenocron deal sounds sweet. I was already planning on filling my block as soon as I saw that article on the home page. As far as swaping my tranny that's not really an option I'm already going over budget on this little endever and the wifes getting furious. but assuming I scratch up the cash to swap it what would be the benifit of going with the GSR or b16? I was under the impression the LS tranny would be the best for my set up.

I don't think anyone actually read this... but what would be the benifits of a gsr or b16 tranny for my setup?

 

[reikoshea]

shorter gearing. faster acceleration.

 

[Seany-izzle]

he will beat you. youre not all motor, you have nitrous. i doubt youll win with an ls tranny too.

his srt>your integra

 

[HatchSpeeD]

The LS tranny is geared more toward fuel ecomony. Ideally, out the box the type R tranny would be the best choice. Short gears & LSD but you'll pay a pretty penny. Then you have the b16 tranny which has pretty much the same gearing but unless its a jdm w/factory LSD model, usually don't come with LSD. Oh wait, I just reread your first post. If you already have the phantom grip LSD, I think your best bet would be to get a b16 tranny & use the phantom grip on the b16. Correct if i'm wrong someone, but I believe the LS & b16 trannies share the same differential so they should be interchangable. Then just sell the LS.

 

[Abrasintegra]

Alright I've priced out some trannies and honestly my budget won't let me do it without sacrificing my p&p and crank machining. after the machining I'm looking at roughly 500 left over and that's digging pretty deep and assuming I didn't forget anything. What other alternatives do I have? Cams maybe? I'd like to mod out my entire valve train but 500 bucks won't do that. Hmmm... what to do, what to do...

 

[Cashizslick]

^

N/A tuning is the expensive way to go slow.

For the $ you want to spend, you could reliably turbo your honda enough to beat that SRT.

 

[5speed4life]

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I can't get the image out of my head of when the neon was first intoduced to the market... now everytime I see them I feel like they need the cute little "HI" above them...

Sorry, just had to.

Good luck with your build. Just remember those neons are still heavy, so the weight/power will help you out a little.


Look into ITB setups. they are not too expensive and will definalty give you more throttle response, the downside is they can be a little headache to tune and sync.

 

[reikoshea]

lol not too expensive.

a bolt tune and go set are 1500 bucks (from TWM).

if you buy 3 they will cut you a $400 deal on each...$1100 bucks is still expensive if you ask me.

 

[Taco15]

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I was under the impression the LS tranny would be the best for my set up.

you didnt actually think that did you? dude that the worst for you setup imo. I say get a b16 if you drive mainly around town. If you do highway then go with gsr. I have a b16 cable tranny on my lsvtec and i love it. short gears rule when you want to race someone........at the track

Quoted post[/post]]
Alright I've priced out some trannies and honestly my budget won't let me do it without sacrificing my p&p and crank machining. after the machining I'm looking at roughly 500 left over and that's digging pretty deep and assuming I didn't forget anything. What other alternatives do I have? Cams maybe? I'd like to mod out my entire valve train but 500 bucks won't do that. Hmmm... what to do, what to do...

i beat a 89 hatch with a jdm gsr with skunk2 stage 2 cams,springs/retainers. I beat him from a dig,30mph roll,15mph roll..........twice. I have a 88 crx dx with

light weight eagle crank
,eagle Hbeam rods,
srp 11.3.1 pistons,
skunk stage 2 cams with
springs/retainers
p&P head

totally smoked him from the time i stepped on the throttle. Beat him by 7 car lenghts by the time i let off.
THE BIGGEST REASON HE LOST WAS DUE TO HIS LAS TRANNY. I was in 3rd by the time his 2nd gear was winding up.You wanna win races? You need to ditch the tranny. Ohhh and i dont have and lsd.

 

[5speed4life]

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lol not too expensive.

a bolt tune and go set are 1500 bucks (from TWM).

if you buy 3 they will cut you a $400 deal on each...$1100 bucks is still expensive if you ask me.

you could build a DIY set pretty cheap, epsecialy if you know someone who can weld aluminum. you just need an I/M, some aluminum tubes, and a set of ITB's off of a decent sized bike. I could build a set for under 350.

Im the DIY kind of guy, and when you do anything DIY, it tends to be alot less expensive.

Id rather run a DIY ITB setup than an aftermarket intake that costs the same. Just personal preferances.



Also Taco, your getting me psyched for my build. Lsvtec, Pr3 pistons, gsr head, I/h/e, hondata I/m gasket, unorthadox pullys, act fly/clutch and the JDM y1 trans.

I say just take your time with your build, explore all your options, and have fun. Get a good tune. You payed all this money for all the parts, spent all the time building it, so why not pay the last bit to get it on the dyno and tuned properly. Thats where the most of your power is gona be made anyway.

 

[Taco15]

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lol not too expensive.

a bolt tune and go set are 1500 bucks (from TWM).

if you buy 3 they will cut you a $400 deal on each...$1100 bucks is still expensive if you ask me.

Also Taco, your getting me psyched for my build. Lsvtec, Pr3 pistons, gsr head, I/h/e, hondata I/m gasket, unorthadox pullys, act fly/clutch and the JDM y1 trans.

I say just take your time with your build, explore all your options, and have fun. Get a good tune. You payed all this money for all the parts, spent all the time building it, so why not pay the last bit to get it on the dyno and tuned properly. Thats where the most of your power is gona be made anyway.

what do mean i'm getting you psyched? is that good or bad? Your setup is almost ecaxtly what my previous setup was like. except for the gsr head. all i had were gsr cams and dual valve sring/retainers. in my b16 head.

To get back on topic, everyone here is right as far as how to biuld the motor. All We are really doing is giving you options on whick route you can go. Its up to you to choose which setup is best for you taste. As far as tuning, thats a MUST! I was very dissapointed with the cams at first. Topend power to be exact. After the crome tuning it was like an entirely different engine. You have to have the tuning mainly because you will run really lean when the cams need fuel the most. I know from experience .

good luck with you build. Also my friend just bought the same type on video camara that 1320 has so i hope to be showing my lsvtec soon

 

[GSRCIVICTN]

I believe you've got a good chance against the "punk", especially with the nitrous. I ran a stock SRT-4 in my 94 Civic coupe twice with a b18c and the B16 transmission. I had an 11.5 lb. flywheel, Exedy clutch, AEM V2 intake, Buddy Club exhaust, 255 liter fuel pump, adjustable regulator, and was on street tires. I got him both times. I think he was a little shocked. I have added more in the mean time but looking at what you have, I would be surprised if you couldn't take him.

 

[HatchSpeeD]

I still say your number one priority will be to ditch the LS tranny...if not you'll find out the hard way.

 

[MikeBergy]

I'm running an LS tranny... . If it's any consolation, its the old cable type, and the gears are just slightly shorter than the hydro version. I think my car is fairly quick, but then again, I don't really race on the streets against anyone. A shorter geared tranny would definitely help on some of the twisties in my area though. maybe a ys1 out of a 92-93 gsr. or a jdm ys1 with lsd...mmm...Yeah.

 

[Taco15]

thanks again for the cams mike!

Well if you must sacrifice i would sacrifice the p$p job for the tranny. It will make your car faster.

 

[MikeBergy]

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thanks again for the cams mike!

Well if you must sacrifice i would sacrifice the p$p job for the tranny. It will make your car faster.

Do the pnp yourself, that's what I did. That will save you 4-500 right there. Bang, there's your money for the tranny, no extra required. My pnp turned out well, rocket approved. It wasn't that hard either, not even with te dremel I had, just took a little while.

 

[SlushboxTeggy]

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I believe you've got a good chance against the "punk", especially with the nitrous. I ran a stock SRT-4 in my 94 Civic coupe twice with a b18c and the B16 transmission. I had an 11.5 lb. flywheel, Exedy clutch, AEM V2 intake, Buddy Club exhaust, 255 liter fuel pump, adjustable regulator, and was on street tires. I got him both times. I think he was a little shocked. I have added more in the mean time but looking at what you have, I would be surprised if you couldn't take him.

pretty sure he couldnt drive then. those thing put out around 230hp. how much did you take him by?