So long Mr. Rex, EK here we go

[klyph]

Are you tightening them in a criss cross pattern or just going around in a circle?

 

[Andrew]

Yeah, it's possible your pan is out of level

 

[formby]

i tighten the criss cross.

and i think the block has a chip missing from around a stud, but its not leaking from there.

its leaking from the oil pump studs


my friend has a jack here at work

when i'm done i'm going to wipe it down.

turn the bolts another 1/4 turn and heading home.

this 3 day week end i'm doing it again.

this time with rtv and the blue gasket from felpro & i'm waiting overnight to fill and tighten the pan all the way.

 

[formby]

since ita going to rain, idecided to jack it up and tighten the bolts a little more. sure enough the back bolts were a little loose and that was the source of leak....

lets see when i get home

 

[klyph]

You are using a wrench or socket right?
Your fingers won't get it tight enough

 

[Andrew]

The studs are weak, but you can't be afraid to undertighten them!
I've had that happened to me before, too. It leaked at the track on my D. I jacked it up, tightened the loose ones(they had oil on them), and I was good to go. They stopped leaking right away.

 

[formby]

well i got back and itlooked clean

since the rd was wet i'll wait a while for the oil to get in the oil pan and then ill check it again

 

[formby]

still leaks.
about 3-9 ounces for every 60 miles i drive.

i think it has to be the oil pump because it leaks from that corner only...

what now?

today i installed the 255lph walbro fuel pump i had in the rex. man it was simple, i finished in 15 min instead of the 2-4 hr job i had to deal with installing it in the rex.

now i have this problem:

the tachometer jumps around and the car misfires.







i researched and found that it could be the coil, igniter, rotor, or the main relay.

during regular driving it doesnt do it, but if i get on it it does it.

also it does it more when its just warmed up once its hot it seldom does it.

i wrote an email to distributor king. no response yet.

 

[formby]

help!

 

[formby]

it doesnt do it much any more and its the ignigter. i have a couple laying around.

i installed the 100 shot a couple days ago and i can hardly feel it, but i am going faster. 215-60-14 tires

i have front calipers and rotors from a 06 tl AT. with some milling and re drilling i can bolt them up to my DA knuckles and bolt the assembly to my lower/upper arms.

they do weigh more and ill have to use my 18" suicide kmc rims until i find a smaller set to clear them.

what do you guys think?

pics later

 

[Andrew]

That would be nice man. You'll be stopping on a dime!

I wish I could help you with the problem, but I just don't have any experience with dizzy problems...

 

[formby]

rotor
DA 10.3" .75" thick
TL 11.8" 1.4" thick

pads are almost identical
2x5"
but the tl is more consistent

calipers
DA 7" long
TL8.25" long

the pistons seems to be the same size and the pad surface area on the rotors are the same.

but i know for sure that one of the DA calipers needs a rebuild....

what to do?

 

[klyph]

You'd be adding more rotating mass, which will slightly decrease your WHP. Is the extra braking power worth it to you?

 

[formby]

yes i think that in auto x i will have an advantage by being able to brake better

 

[formby]

i fixed the jumping tach problem.

took the igniter from the old D and replaced it in the distributor.

bingo!

car feels much smoother and my butt dyno is happy.

next saturday i'm going to try again and fix the oil leak on the pan.

but i was thinking of buying a b20 some 12.5:1arias pistons with the H beam rods i have in my office and maybe some skunk2 pro/rocket additions. because i think that the block is no bueno and the leak will never be fixed.


also last week end i installed ARP lug studs by following this article on HT
Honda-Tech.com: Honda Civic/Del Sol (1992 - 2000): HOW TO: DIY Wheel stud replacement with pictorial

 

[klyph]

yes i think that in auto x i will have an advantage by being able to brake better

Being able to brake "better" is not what a big brake upgrade is for. If you can lock up the wheels with the brakes you have, then you don't need bigger brakes. The larger rotors/pads dissipate heat more efficiently, so prolonged and repeated hard braking won't overheat/warp your rotors or boil your brake fluid. If you can do an AutoX run without overheating your brakes, there's no reason to upgrade them. Plus, larger rotors usually mean you will need larger, heavier rims, which will also negatively affect your car's performance.

 

[formby]

16" rims will clear this set up and i'm looking at these

13.5lbs

he larger rotors/pads dissipate heat more efficiently, so prolonged and repeated hard braking won't overheat/warp your rotors or boil your brake fluid.

that's the advantage i'm talking about and right now i have 9.5" fronts and drums.

 

[formby]

well i blew up my tranny.

went to launch against a camaro and it just blew.


gsr with lsd is next.

 

[klyph]

lol, here's Walker avenging your transmission:
YouTube - Don't fuck with Walker, Texas Ranger.

What exactly blew up? First gear? Differential?

 

[formby]

it blew through the speed sensor.

when i went to launch instead and a BANG followed by a whole bunch of smoke .