Some of My "Photography"

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gunna make some snuff films??
 
I like the shots, my fave is the outlined person. I do think you should really stop down the aperture to get them sharper, though. f/8 set at hyperfocal distance should be good enough. Also, if your cam supports a remote shutter release, then I'd be using that and bulb mode so that your shutter doesn't close on you in the middle of the shot.

If you like light graffiti, you should check out Light Graffiti and Photography - Michael Bosanko. He has some sick shots.

The camera is a Canon Rebel XSI, It does support remote shutter release, and i have used bulb mode before when shooting of another person. And by outline, did you refer to the 1st or last image. I think the camera actually sets it for f4 for some reason when shooting with these settings.
 
I like the shots, my fave is the outlined person. I do think you should really stop down the aperture to get them sharper, though. f/8 set at hyperfocal distance should be good enough. Also, if your cam supports a remote shutter release, then I'd be using that and bulb mode so that your shutter doesn't close on you in the middle of the shot.

If you like light graffiti, you should check out Light Graffiti and Photography - Michael Bosanko. He has some sick shots.


Ive watched videos of those types of work being done, they have special light bars instead say microlights or flash lights which allow for the longer "bar" effect. Really is a work of art, but like everything, comes with practice.
 
The camera is a Canon Rebel XSI, It does support remote shutter release, and i have used bulb mode before when shooting of another person. And by outline, did you refer to the 1st or last image. I think the camera actually sets it for f4 for some reason when shooting with these settings.
I was referring to the first two images. The first looks like the blurriness might be from camera shake, but the second is definitely from the horizon being out of focus. You should be able to go into M mode, set the aperture for about f/8, shutter to bulb, ISO around 400-800 (depends on how your camera handles noise and long exposures or how you handle it in post processing). For the most depth of field, you should really get the lens focused at the hyperfocal distance, so look it up if you're not sure about what it is. It used to be a lot easier to figure out with manual focus lenses or lenses that had a dof scale, but most nowdays don't have that. After you get it focused, use the remote shutter release to open the shutter and make the photo. Most shutter releases allow you to lock the button down so it stays open. Also, if you aren't already, you should really use a sturdy tripod.

Another plus to working the way I just described is that it can give you time to use a strobe or flashlight to paint light in other areas of the frame to highlight objects.
 
Pro Optic. If Im not mistaken the same lens is sold under that name too. Literally the same lens, just a different name lol.
I've seen a few shots with that lens and it has a really cool look to it. I'd like to get one at some point, but I need a good wide angle and a newer body before anything else.
 
I've seen a few shots with that lens and it has a really cool look to it. I'd like to get one at some point, but I need a good wide angle and a newer body before anything else.

Id recomend it. Pro Optic is the cheapest, and like I said (you already seem to know) it is the exact came lens, just branded different. Its as sharp if not sharper than the Nikon counter part, which is over twice as much.

My next lens purchase will be a wide angle zoom. I want somethin in the 10mm neighborhood at the close end. It will most likely be a Tokina. NowI just need to decide between a new body, or another lens first lol.
 
Id recomend it. Pro Optic is the cheapest, and like I said (you already seem to know) it is the exact came lens, just branded different. Its as sharp if not sharper than the Nikon counter part, which is over twice as much.

My next lens purchase will be a wide angle zoom. I want somethin in the 10mm neighborhood at the close end. It will most likely be a Tokina. NowI just need to decide between a new body, or another lens first lol.
Thanks, I'd never heard of the Pro Optic version. My biggest need right now is higher fps and better high iso noise right now, so a body will come first. I find that I don't really use wide angles much, but there are those times when you just have to have it to get the shot so I want to get one.

While I'm on here, might as well add a couple shots I scanned yesterday in a roll of film that just came back. They were taken with my Minolta Autocord at a local farmers market.
4713587694_718f070bbb.jpg


4713239853_3c4c4fc291.jpg
 
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I was referring to the first two images. The first looks like the blurriness might be from camera shake, but the second is definitely from the horizon being out of focus. You should be able to go into M mode, set the aperture for about f/8, shutter to bulb, ISO around 400-800 (depends on how your camera handles noise and long exposures or how you handle it in post processing). For the most depth of field, you should really get the lens focused at the hyperfocal distance, so look it up if you're not sure about what it is. It used to be a lot easier to figure out with manual focus lenses or lenses that had a dof scale, but most nowdays don't have that. After you get it focused, use the remote shutter release to open the shutter and make the photo. Most shutter releases allow you to lock the button down so it stays open. Also, if you aren't already, you should really use a sturdy tripod.

Another plus to working the way I just described is that it can give you time to use a strobe or flashlight to paint light in other areas of the frame to highlight objects.

Yeah all the images except the center one was taken on a tripod. Ill try setting the ISO a bit higher then what ive been using (300-400 instead of 100). I have changed the aperature for f/8 in M mode, but when i adjust the shutter speed it automatically adjusts the Aperature to f/4. But im aware a remote release would do wonders, but if you have a partner you can have them set the camera on a timer or manually use Bulb mode as well, but 20-30 seconds normally is ample time to do most things. The only time ive used Bulb is when my partner used the color lights and i walked in a 360 degree circle to see what effects would be made. This is an example :
32522_403450393035_563003035_4490215_4744569_n.jpg


To try and fix the blur, which i think it still looks better then some of the other photos ive deleted. I would have the main light being held up at the proper distance and had the camera focus in on it before we begin shooting.

Update: I looked back at the 1st shot and did notice the blur of the background furniture does throw the image off a bit. Ill try and work on that, but thanks for the tips.
 
I looked at the 450D manual and I don't see anything in there where it should be automatically changing to f/4 when you go to Bulb. Something tells me that it might be a custom function that is set to not let you go fully manual. The other possibility is that you have a setting on where when you are in M mode and change either a shutter speed or aperture, it will automatically adjust the other to keep the same exposure value. I'm not sure what it's called, but I know I've accidentally turned it on before and had to turn it off. I can guarantee that your cam has the ability to do what I described though, it's just a matter of figuring out why it's not letting you.
 
it automatically goes to F4 when you change to bulb bc thats where it was set at in the factory.
you can change it, should change just the same as it does in full manual mode. (do you have a "bulb" mode? its not just full maual?)
if you are using a nikon (may have overlooked that) then i have no clue how your setup is, i shoot canon.
in canon, the bulb mode is in full manual mode, you just open the shutter speed all the way up and after 30sec it goes to bulb.
 
Nikon got to Bulb mode after 30 seconds, but you still have full aperture control. If your using a remote, then it goes to Time mode. Which is the same thing.
 
He's using Canon, which I'm not familiar with since I use Minolta/Sony. Usually, once you are in manual mode, and if your camera only has one scroll wheel on it, then that scroll wheel will only control either aperture or shutter speed. You usually need to hold down another button and then turn that wheel and it will control the other function.


anyone see the resemblance ..
Haha, totally.


Here's another photo I scanned last night:
4720620462_1f50b0a8c8.jpg
 
He's using Canon, which I'm not familiar with since I use Minolta/Sony. Usually, once you are in manual mode, and if your camera only has one scroll wheel on it, then that scroll wheel will only control either aperture or shutter speed. You usually need to hold down another button and then turn that wheel and it will control the other function.

Right, but I was just reffering to what Invisible said.
 
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