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Peleng 8mm?Just got myself a new 8mm fisheye lens. Cant wait to shoot with this thing.
I like the shots, my fave is the outlined person. I do think you should really stop down the aperture to get them sharper, though. f/8 set at hyperfocal distance should be good enough. Also, if your cam supports a remote shutter release, then I'd be using that and bulb mode so that your shutter doesn't close on you in the middle of the shot.
If you like light graffiti, you should check out Light Graffiti and Photography - Michael Bosanko. He has some sick shots.
I like the shots, my fave is the outlined person. I do think you should really stop down the aperture to get them sharper, though. f/8 set at hyperfocal distance should be good enough. Also, if your cam supports a remote shutter release, then I'd be using that and bulb mode so that your shutter doesn't close on you in the middle of the shot.
If you like light graffiti, you should check out Light Graffiti and Photography - Michael Bosanko. He has some sick shots.
Peleng 8mm?
I was referring to the first two images. The first looks like the blurriness might be from camera shake, but the second is definitely from the horizon being out of focus. You should be able to go into M mode, set the aperture for about f/8, shutter to bulb, ISO around 400-800 (depends on how your camera handles noise and long exposures or how you handle it in post processing). For the most depth of field, you should really get the lens focused at the hyperfocal distance, so look it up if you're not sure about what it is. It used to be a lot easier to figure out with manual focus lenses or lenses that had a dof scale, but most nowdays don't have that. After you get it focused, use the remote shutter release to open the shutter and make the photo. Most shutter releases allow you to lock the button down so it stays open. Also, if you aren't already, you should really use a sturdy tripod.The camera is a Canon Rebel XSI, It does support remote shutter release, and i have used bulb mode before when shooting of another person. And by outline, did you refer to the 1st or last image. I think the camera actually sets it for f4 for some reason when shooting with these settings.
I've seen a few shots with that lens and it has a really cool look to it. I'd like to get one at some point, but I need a good wide angle and a newer body before anything else.Pro Optic. If Im not mistaken the same lens is sold under that name too. Literally the same lens, just a different name lol.
I've seen a few shots with that lens and it has a really cool look to it. I'd like to get one at some point, but I need a good wide angle and a newer body before anything else.
Thanks, I'd never heard of the Pro Optic version. My biggest need right now is higher fps and better high iso noise right now, so a body will come first. I find that I don't really use wide angles much, but there are those times when you just have to have it to get the shot so I want to get one.Id recomend it. Pro Optic is the cheapest, and like I said (you already seem to know) it is the exact came lens, just branded different. Its as sharp if not sharper than the Nikon counter part, which is over twice as much.
My next lens purchase will be a wide angle zoom. I want somethin in the 10mm neighborhood at the close end. It will most likely be a Tokina. NowI just need to decide between a new body, or another lens first lol.
I was referring to the first two images. The first looks like the blurriness might be from camera shake, but the second is definitely from the horizon being out of focus. You should be able to go into M mode, set the aperture for about f/8, shutter to bulb, ISO around 400-800 (depends on how your camera handles noise and long exposures or how you handle it in post processing). For the most depth of field, you should really get the lens focused at the hyperfocal distance, so look it up if you're not sure about what it is. It used to be a lot easier to figure out with manual focus lenses or lenses that had a dof scale, but most nowdays don't have that. After you get it focused, use the remote shutter release to open the shutter and make the photo. Most shutter releases allow you to lock the button down so it stays open. Also, if you aren't already, you should really use a sturdy tripod.
Another plus to working the way I just described is that it can give you time to use a strobe or flashlight to paint light in other areas of the frame to highlight objects.
Haha, totally.anyone see the resemblance ..
He's using Canon, which I'm not familiar with since I use Minolta/Sony. Usually, once you are in manual mode, and if your camera only has one scroll wheel on it, then that scroll wheel will only control either aperture or shutter speed. You usually need to hold down another button and then turn that wheel and it will control the other function.
me tooRight, but I was just reffering to what Invisible said.