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Someone Help W/ My Horror Swap

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by slammedb18acivic, Jan 13, 2003.

  1. slammedb18acivic

    slammedb18acivic Senior Member

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    i swapped a 92 b18a1 into my 90 si hatch. i havent any luck w/ this car. anyone know what clutch cable to use, everything is so tiiite its practically impossible to adjust. my car wont run right , she starts but i have no tac or speed. all lights wrk and all fuses are good. when i rev it it sounds like its redlineing at like 2 grand, i have 90 ls ecu in it too. anyone know what to do
     
  2. nuc79

    nuc79 Senior Member

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    I believe the 92 B18A has a grey-plug OBD-1 distributor and you're using a 90 LS OBD-0 ECU (PR-4? maybe).

    If everything in your swap is from the 92, then you need a 92-93 ECU. That is why your tach signal might be messed up and the ignition system won't let you rev past 2-3k. Someone correct me if I'm wrong though.

    I have a 93 B18A PR-4 ECU if you're interested.
     
  3. slammedb18acivic

    slammedb18acivic Senior Member

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    yup 92-93 distributor is grey plug but i got a distributor off a 90 ls white plug so it conects w/ my si wiring harness no wiring needed there. didnt lose rpm and speed till recently after i had gotten my intake manifold port and polished. what about the clutch cable cant tighten it for some reason its so tight. also cant move the car do to not being able to adjust the cable. i got a 90 si cable and a 90 ls cable but still doesnt wrk.
     
  4. nuc79

    nuc79 Senior Member

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    well, it's not the dist. then.

    I'd try resetting your ECU after any major mods like that(port/polish). Disconnect battery neg. cable, step on brake pedal to drain any residual power stored as capacitance/inductance, then restore power and start car. If that doesn't work, which it might not, then something may not have been hooked up right when the manifold/TB went back on. Check your sensor connections and vac line connections, especially for the MAP, IAC, TPS sensors. Honda ECUs are pretty forgiving of mechanical mods as long as all the electrical signals are present.

    As for the cable tranny, I've noticed the inner cable does stretch over time(150-200k mi.). I assume you can't adjust it tight enough to get the clutch fork to move? I dunno there. If the adjusting nut's at the end of it's travel, i'd say look at how both ends of the cable are connected , make sure nothing's wierd, then start loking for a new cable.
     
  5. slammedb18acivic

    slammedb18acivic Senior Member

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    i had started my car a few times after the manifold was put back on to help circulate the coolant through all my sensors after they were disconected and it didnt rev like this. after doing it a few times the dashboard lights and the idle both happened at the same time when i reved it up .. kinda like poped or something and the rpm went out and my idle became all funky like redlining at 2 grand. ill check every conection though
     
  6. slammedb18acivic

    slammedb18acivic Senior Member

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    well i fixed the problems as of now, on my swap i had to flip the clutch cable bracket over on the trans and bend it. a 90 ls and 90 si cable will not wrk inless you do this.
     
  7. slammedb18acivic

    slammedb18acivic Senior Member

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    heres the scoop i thought my idle problem was gone but its back. how do i reset the ecu on a pr4 in a civic. i replaced the distributor and i still have no rpms and my car redlines at like 2 grand. kinda sounds like a plug fouled out or something weird like that.
     
  8. slammedb18acivic

    slammedb18acivic Senior Member

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    i fixed my rev, two of my injector plugs were actually not plugged in all the way. haha stupid right. well everything is so tight w/ a 93 motor in this hatch so everything needs to be made to wrk. i still have a problem, my tac doesnt wrk. i put two non obd distributors to see if the tac signal is bad. (blue wire) nothing changed . all fuses are good !
     
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