Sputtering/Jerking on Acceleration/Good Idle/Revs limited in Neutral/Etc...NEED HELP

[SohcZcCrx]

Here are all of the symptoms of my problem, plus parts that have been replaced.

Car:
1990 Honda CRX Si with 1998 Integra GS-R swap

Replaced Parts:
- Spark Plugs (Were worn)
- Distributor Cap and Rotor (Were worn)

Parts tried then returned:
- Ignition Wires (Fine)

Symptoms:
- The car is barely driveable.
- The car starts fine.
- The car idles smoothly but idles lower than usual.
- When in neutral (5 speed manual), engine won't rev high. It will bounce off at a point and rev back up to the same point, then repeat consistently.
- When driving, at an EXTREMELY light throttle (<1/4) it is fine.
- Throttle past 1/4 and it hesitates then jerks.
- Full throttle and it sputters quickly and jerks sometimes.
- If I don't let the clutch engage fully and let it slip some, it can accelerate at a higher throttle because it isn't under as much load.
- I can only drive so fast, because even in 5th gear I can only put the throttle so far without it hesitating, jerking and sputtering.
- Lately after changing my transmission, clutch and flywheel, when I decelerate the tach needle will bounce wildly up and down.
- At idle with my Hondata s100 tuned computer the idle doesn't surge, with a non-vtec civic ECU the idle surges.

 

[DBCustoms]

sounds like a wiring problem. more specifically the crank/cam sensor wiring crossed causing the timing to severely retard or possibly the tps wires were not swapped around either way it sounds like a simple fix with a little rewiring. you should be able to get all the wiring info you need for this swap combo in the reference material or swaps section.

 

[SohcZcCrx]

The car was working fine until the other day, I was driving in the rain, thought the air filter was getting too wet, or that I was low on gas (I was a little low), pulled over, checked the filter, it was wet, filled up on gas, kept driving and the problem went away. Occasionally when I mess around with the ignition wires, like pull them off and put them back on, it will work for a while, it just came back the other day. All of the wiring has been fine for years, no wires are crossed, it's definitely a part. Which one is what I need to figure out.

 

[DBCustoms]

well if its not the wiring then more than likely something in the distributor. like the cam/crank angle sensor. but you never know it could be a wiring problem. with them getting wet you never know when a wire is gonna short out. happens all the time on swapped cars

 

[SohcZcCrx]

But wouldn't a short make the problem happen all the time and not come and go? I know it's not from a fuse, but I'm thinking it could be some kind of sensor that is going in and out, thing is, why does unplugging and then replugging my ignition wires seem to make it go away and then it come back anyways? Someone's got to have an idea about that one?

 

[D15Beater]

When I first did the MPFI swap my friend helping me got the IACV wires mixed up with the Intake air temp sensor plug. I had similar issues with my car. Is it possible those two plugs got swap mixed during the swap? Im just guessing here but TPS related? Have you checked the ignition coil, ive seen the same symptoms from them going bad, connection.

Maybe the rainy day is just a thing, a has nothing to do with the problem at all. Distributor sensor?

No check engine lights?

 

[RoughKnight]

If it happens in intervals while driving, sounds like a wire is loose and loses connection to its plug/sensor.
That rising rev is the map sensor and the tps sensor. You have them wired up wrong. They are the easiest thing to fk up on a swap. On top of that, your rev in neutral is either an extreme exhaust restriction or your ecu is in LIMP mode, probably cause you crossed your tps and map
+rep if this helps

 

[SohcZcCrx]

Thing is, it's been working for years the way it's wired, the swap was done a long time ago, this just started happening one day when I was driving, worked fine before that. I haven't done anything swap related at all in this car other than a transmission, clutch and flywheel. Nothing wiring related. I know the air temp. sensor is right, because if I switch that and the only other one that can plug into it, the car won't even run. Also, if I switch the connector that's for the tps with the only other one that will fit it, the car won't run. What could it be with those things out of the picture? Any ideas? I'm thinkin I'll just have to troubleshoot it somehow.

 

[RoughKnight]

Are you getting any cels? If something is loose or wired incorrectly, a cel should come on...

 

[SohcZcCrx]

So I checked everything I could think of, checked the connection of the TP sensor wires (I don't think it was hooked in all the way possibly.), pulled the plug wires and plugged them in again (Usually works for a while when I do that.), fixed a bad connection on my reverse sensor wires, and messed with following some wires around, rechecking the fuses, and some other stuff.

Anyways, after doing all of that stuff, it runs fine again. This happens all the time though, so we'll soon see if it was just me not clipping the TP sensor connector in all the way.

And I always have a check engine light on due to some things done during the motor swap.

I'm gonna take the bulb out.

 

[RoughKnight]

LOL....
FIX THE LIGHT, DON'T TAKE THE BULB OUT WTF.
/rant

Hope the TPS was your problem!
+rep if I helped

 

[SohcZcCrx]

I think the lights always gonna be on because they got rid of some stuff and there's a coolant temperature sensor that broke, and I don't really care about that too much anyways, there's another one that works well enough. It's never caused any problems so why spend money on fixing it if it makes no difference, that's how I feel about it anyways. I never use the CEL anyways, it's easy to put the bulb back in to get a code if something happens and I can't figure it out ya know. So anyways, I didn't think it would be a loose wire, but it seems it might be the connector, this time I heard it click in, all these other times I've been unplugging it, I don't recall hearing it click, so I'm hopin' that's all it was. I gotta drive it some more and see if when I'm decelerating the tach needle still jumps around like crazy. Hopefully that was just from something stupid too and maybe I somehow accidentally fixed that too. Ha ha ha, we'll see man. Thanks for helpin' out guys.

 

[RoughKnight]

Lol u not fixing the CEL's is a bad decision. I'll see you in 6 months when you post about what broke.

 

[Matts96HB]

As stated before, you need to address the CEL's before you go any further. Your car will tell you what is wrong, so you don't have to sit for hours trying to figure out what your car will already tell you.