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Stabilizer mount solidification

Discussion in 'Wheels / Suspension / Tires / Brakes' started by xj0hnx, Jun 11, 2005.

  1. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    So a few days ago, I decided to fill my front stabilizer mounts with polyurethane. The quest was on to find something local that I could use. I tried finding 3M Window Weld, but it isn't a German product, and I didn't feel like waiting to order it. So I looked at probably a hundred brands of silicons till I found a poly based glue called Uniflex. Silicons are too soft, you need a poly based filling. This stuff is great. I have seen a few where you have to mix it yourself, but this comes ready to use in a calking tube...

    [​IMG]

    Anyway, the first step is to use some acetone, and clean you mounts thourghly...

    [​IMG]

    Next, preferably the next day, tape off one side, and the top of the mount to form the "mold"...

    [​IMG]

    Once you have made sure nothing is going to seep out, start filling....

    [​IMG]

    This is what the end product should resemble. You can use a piece of ice to smooth it out if you like, I didn't care, since it is under the car anyway, but I did shot them with some flat black to minimize future rust. It takes about four days for the stuff to completely cure, it does so at a rate of 3mm per 24 hours. Also, when they are done curing, take a razor to the top part where it sits on the frame. On the frame there is a extruding piece that needs to be accomodated to get a flush seating of the mount.

    [​IMG]

    Now to install them (I didn't have my camera) you just jack up the front so you can get to the bolts. On the driver side, there are four holding the bracket on, and a 17mm holding the mount on. You should be able to get if off by just removing three, and loosening one, so you can turn the bracket. Same with the other side, just three bolts holding the bracket, and one 20mm holding the mount. Doing it from the top is a pain, from the bottom just take off the splash guard, and you can reach them all easy.


    After doing this, vibration will be increased...a lot, not untolerable though. But the benefits are tremendous, shifting is a LOT smoother as the motor is more stable, and the ride just feels a 100 times better. Wouldn't think that something so small would impact so much, but it does.
     
  2. abdelsol

    abdelsol Member

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    Great Idea.

    I have a suggestion to reduce vibration. Drill some holes for dampening. Better yet make some slots, smaller than they were. I would start out small and enlarge until you find a nice balance of vibration to performance. like .25 x .5 radially.

    Since they are for torque, te 10 and 2 oclock position.
     
  3. civicious

    civicious FüK-VTEC VIP

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    Huh? I'm thinking 'no'.
     
  4. abdelsol

    abdelsol Member

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    would you explian why?
     
  5. civicious

    civicious FüK-VTEC VIP

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    How about YOU explain why, porky...

    The POINT of solidifying the mounts is to keep the engine from moving...not to reduce vibration. If you were to drill holes in it, that would completely defeat the purpose of doing this at all.
     
  6. abdelsol

    abdelsol Member

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    hey a$$hole get a life. If you cannot improve the silence keep the hole in your face shut....
     
  7. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    Abdelsol, I see what you're saying, the vibration is realy only noticable it idle, so I am thinking that just shaving the top where the mount face is on the frame might lessen idle vibrations, but it is not that bad, I may try to see if that helps.
     
  8. abdelsol

    abdelsol Member

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    look at the swing radius from the mounts. The dampening (give) wants to follow that arc.

    What do you think would be better (I dont have the material in front of me) to put it in compression or tension.
     
  9. abdelsol

    abdelsol Member

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    92b16vx,

    I think you may be on to the answer. I would want to think about shaving it at the mount. altering the edges weaken anything. But a slice or 2 in the center with progressively greater distances might be better.

    What i am thinking....... at idle there is a vibration or frequency you want to remove but retain the stiffness. the first slice will offer some compliance. if not enough make another but with a larger distance from the center. like if you had a rubber band and then next to it you had 2 working together. the first allows compliance but the moment you hit the next set its stiffer.

    This is difficult without pictures...... worth a 1000 words....lol

    edit:horrible spelling
     
  10. koni_civic_hatch

    koni_civic_hatch Junior Member

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    i did this when i put my new motor in and it give you a little more torque and it's well worth the 25-30 bucks its gonna cost you for the 3m window weld
     
  11. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    20-30 bucks :( this stuff was about $6 a tube :)
     
  12. abdelsol

    abdelsol Member

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    Have you played with the slicing yet? How did it work out?
     
  13. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    Naw, I just left em :)
     
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