Alright i have been working on my 95 del sol trying to figure it out. I just bought a 95 del sol. the lady said it was an ignition swithch so i pulled it off and rigged it to get it home. I pulled the spring off the switch and turned it till it cranked and started then i backed it off to keep it running and get it home. it cranks and begins to start but dies right after. wont even idle. tried starting it and hitting the gas thinkin iac but no luck. swapped the ignition swithch and harness and still the same. I think the engine was replaced at somepoint cause its a d16y7 with a crank sensor that is just sitting there doing nothin (not plugged in nor has wiring to plug in.) i think they swapped motors and left the oem ecm in it. but i dont understand how i started it and got it home. If anyone has any ideas, advise, tips or even slightly possible ideas to try it would appreciated. im at a loss
starting problem
- Thread starter cobb0387
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D16SiHatch
Active Member
well the y7 stock was ran as an obd2 motor. which explains the ckp sensor just chillin there unconnected. only the obd2 ecu looks for it so your fine there, an obd1 ecu has no connection for and does not look for the crank fluctuation sensor. a stock del sol ecu will run the y7 fine, assuming it originally had a z6 in it to start with. if it was a non-vtec engine then in order for the y7 to be hooked up properly they would had to of used a vtec subharness. you should look and see if the vtec solenoid and pressure sensor are connected to something.
It also is quite possible that the issue your having is due to the fact that the y7 is the only d-series engine with a 190cc injector instead of the otherwise standard 240cc size. so regardless what ecu you happen to be running (since its obviously not the P2E) it is sending out an injector pulse for a 240cc injector, and that's just not going to work.
It also is quite possible that the issue your having is due to the fact that the y7 is the only d-series engine with a 190cc injector instead of the otherwise standard 240cc size. so regardless what ecu you happen to be running (since its obviously not the P2E) it is sending out an injector pulse for a 240cc injector, and that's just not going to work.
D16SiHatch
Active Member
So your car is a dx then, and your stock engine was a non-vtec d15b7. therefore vtec can't possibly be hooked up. that would not however stop the car from running atleast half-way decent even if the ecu is completely wrong for that engine lol. the fact that y7 injectors are smaller is whats most likely giving you all this trouble. i'm curious though what dizzy is being used on your engine. i'm assuming obd1... maybe the previous owners used an obd2-obd1 distributor conversion harness to make the y7's dizzy work, which sounds great, but would also cause you major problems. an obd1 ecu will not work with an obd2 dizzy. you should check and see what you have on there. now i know if you convert to obd2 and run the p2e y7 ecu it will run exactly as it should. i'm uncertain however if you can stay obd1 and use a p28 with its fuel trims, and have it run as it should. i did some searching but couldn't find anything at all really on a y7/p28 combo.
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So being a holiday tommorrow and not working i have time to work on the sol. I checked out the Dizzy amd its a TD-80U. (OBD-2) so thats prob. why its not running and it ran like crap when i rigged it to get it home. In your opinion, would it be best to swap the Dizzy and run the possible bad fuel trims or get an OBD2 to OBD1 harness addapter and run the P2E w/ crank sensor hooked up? Is there anything else besides the crank sensor i would have to run or hook up that you can think of?
D16SiHatch
Active Member
It would be easiest to run it all obd1 but since i don't know of an obd1 ecu with the proper trims for the y7 i'm not sure what to recommend. if someone else was to say that a z6 ecu could run the y7 fine, then by all means stay obd1 and use a p28.
The best choice would be to run the engine with the exact ecu it was designed to run with. so the p2e. so you'd need the obd1-obd2 jumper. You dont have to hook up the ckf sensor if you don't want to. there is a simple way to bypass it that i believe will still work even though your car isnt originally obd2.
.:FFS TechNet : CKF Bypass Trick :.
it's asking you to connect 2 sets of 2 wires together. i believe that you simply have to locate the wires they are asking for on the ecu jumper itself and then quick splice them together.
The best choice would be to run the engine with the exact ecu it was designed to run with. so the p2e. so you'd need the obd1-obd2 jumper. You dont have to hook up the ckf sensor if you don't want to. there is a simple way to bypass it that i believe will still work even though your car isnt originally obd2.
.:FFS TechNet : CKF Bypass Trick :.
it's asking you to connect 2 sets of 2 wires together. i believe that you simply have to locate the wires they are asking for on the ecu jumper itself and then quick splice them together.
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