stuck on 94 h22 accord electrical

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-94-AccordH22

Senior Member
hello. today i was working on transfering over the accord harness to the h22. i got both harnesses laid out. and im pretty much stuck. i got the vtec guide but thats not helping me with the main harness. i was wondering what all i have to do for the electrical portion of this swap?

thanks a bunch
 
let me guess, you have a JDM motor and harness right?

you need to use your harness, plug in what you can, extend whatever doesn;t reach to plug it in, and then chop the jdm harness to get your vtec plugs and run them right into the firewall...
 
ive got the injector plugs from MY harness over onto the h22. so pretty much yank the knock and vtec wires from the h22 harness?
as far as sensors. what all connectors from the f22 plug into the h22? could i just look at the h22 book and f22 book and match colors to the sensor and just plug in the accord harness and make my own little harness for vtec and stuff.

and they were talking about dizzy wires? whats the deal with that? old motor was external coil. h22 is not.
 
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ive got the injector plugs from MY harness over onto the h22. so pretty much yank the knock and vtec wires from the h22 harness?
yes, and IAB if you didn't have it already.

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as far as sensors. what all connectors from the f22 plug into the h22? could i just look at the h22 book and f22 book and match colors to the sensor and just plug in the accord harness and make my own little harness for vtec and stuff.
Like Recked said. Just keep lengthening wires until it all fits. Yes, a lot of the colors match up, but maybe not all. Then, you may route your VTEC wires along the main harness and through the firewall, or run a "VTEC harness" seperately. I would confirm VTEC and lack of codes before taping the shit out of everything, unless you are good at this(you may be :shrug2:).

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and they were talking about dizzy wires? whats the deal with that? old motor was external coil. h22 is not.
One wire to run, please search, since there was an answer with picture in the last two weeks for this very same question. It's really easy. :) You can save this for last if you like.


OK, read "vtec wiring tommorow". There's a pic, and my explanation.
 
somewhere it said i dont HAVE to use IAB i could just vacuum line from iab to intake man. and not worry bout wiring it up?
 
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what about the map sensor?

That wiring is going to be the same with each engine, so as tab/reiko said, just lengthen what doesnt reach. Theres only a few wires that you'll actually have to wire, which are listed in the article at the top of this forum.
 
but theres no map sensor on the h22 TB and im pretty much lost on which connectors go where. ill post pics soon

thanks guys
 
thanks man. your making my first swap not as stressfull. ha
so the EXCISTING connectors on the f22 harness should all go to SOME sort of connector on the h22.
and i just have to add my own for the vtec and knock.

there is a couple of sensors or plugs that i dont know which one goes where becuase there is like 3 of the same sized connectors on the f22 harness so i dont know which one goes to which part on the h22.

and one more thing. umm i had to add a whole new connector for knock. with the connector on the sensor which wire is ground and which one goes to ecu (top wire or bottom wire) i used my own colors becuase it didnt have any AT ALL.
 
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but theres no map sensor on the h22 TB and im pretty much lost on which connectors go where. ill post pics soon

thanks guys

No map on the TB!?! Wtf.. You can just use the old one off the F22, but based on what you are saying, im wondering whats going on over there. You dont have the old engine harness to reuse? If you dont, Id recommend buying one from the junkyard.
 
my mistake for not explaining clearly. i HAVE everything from my accord including harness. but the sensors and such on the h22 are confusing the shit outta me. some of them are in different places. and i think i put the wrong plugs on different sensors. its all mixed up in there. and the map in the f22 TB isnt the same as the h22 TB. there is only one plug on the h22 TB. and they said switch the EGR. im not sure what that is?
than there is a cylinder looking thing on the pass side of the intake with a connector on it. and i dont know which plug goes there. im probably just gunna spend a while with both helms books side by side. comparing wires.

the only wires on the WHOLE f22 harness i have hooked up are:
alt wires (2)
fuel injector plugs (4)
IAT intake air temp (1)
and everything else im mixed up or confused on where they WENT becuz i took the harness off the f22 and forgot where they all go :blink:


and on tabs excellent pics that have helped me out, im goin with that vacuum bypass. becuase the company i got my h22 from f***** up the black box under the intake. (do i have to wire the sensor that WAS on there?)
 
ok i got most the connectors for the TB and intake portion hooked. now im on the coil part. there seems to be like 3 connectors for the coil. the yellow wire for power i already did looking at tabs thing. but there is crank posistion and TDC i dont know where they go?

thanks
 
The IAB trick is for exactly the reason you described. Broken black box, or for race only application. The IAB enhances low end torque a little. You don't have to wire it if the box is gone.

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ok i got most the connectors for the TB and intake portion hooked. now im on the coil part. there seems to be like 3 connectors for the coil. the yellow wire for power i already did looking at tabs thing. but there is crank posistion and TDC i dont know where they go?

thanks
The rest of the connectors for the coil you leave alone. For the dizzy, three plugs are the same between the H22 and the F22. The fourth is for the coil. You only need to jump that one wire from the coil plug to the other plug. That only gives (+) juice to the internal coil. Funny. Nobody told me how to do that part. I figured that shit out with a multitester, and hotwiring past the cap to the (+) post on the internal coil. Hella ghetto. It worked, I traced the wire outside the distributor and wired it again. There it stayed for about a year until I rewired it for aesthetic reasons(looked like shit.) I also like to make the wire jump on the engine harness side of the plugs. That makes a distributor plug and play if it needs changing.

Use a manual to find out where each plug goes. Wire colors should be easy to figure out.

Use shielded wire for that knock sensor.
 
im probably in a different world than. theres only 2 plugs coming out of the dizzy. im sure they are the dizzy wires and 2 coil wires. but there these 2 plugs on the harness. and the helms says those colors are for TDC and Crank Position? but the 2 connectors coming out from dizzy are taken?
ill post some pics if i dont figure it out by tomorrow.
 
by harness plug, I mean one plug with several wires in it. Take a pic if you get stumped.
 
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im probably in a different world than. theres only 2 plugs coming out of the dizzy. im sure they are the dizzy wires and 2 coil wires. but there these 2 plugs on the harness. and the helms says those colors are for TDC and Crank Position? but the 2 connectors coming out from dizzy are taken?
ill post some pics if i dont figure it out by tomorrow.

Lol, you are even confusing me when you talk about it and I'm not even there to have to figure it out. Wiring does not seem to be your forte, so just be extra careful. When you extend wires/wire VTEC, just remember what plug goes to what connector because some of them are similar and will fit but are not the same. You want to verify wire colors for each plug that you extend. The way I did it was to use Autozone's online wiring diagram for the 94 Accord. Ex. The MAP sensor has 3 wires (whatever colors they are, I forgot), so when working on the harness, I double-check which connector I'm working on, then extend it, plug it in, then move on to the next, one at a time. Bang out the easy ones first.
 
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