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Swap Gurus Look! NEED HELP!!

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by SlowCGP_EJ8, Jan 23, 2008.

  1. SlowCGP_EJ8

    SlowCGP_EJ8 New Member

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    I came to this forum because 3/4's of the population on Honda-Tech are fucking useless, and provided no insight once so ever.

    Car and Motor
    1998 Civic EX, with an OBD0 JDM B16. Using the stock OBDIIa harness on the motor along with an OBDII-OBDI conversion harness to a chipped P06 ECU. I understand the car will not engage VTEC with this ECU, but im not worried about that. I just want the car to run, and run right. I am using an OBDII dizzy, injectors, alternator. The only plug I had to cut and splice on the motor was the IACV. The wires on the plug were different colors from the OBD2 Harness. It could be wired wrong, but I dont really see that being the problem.

    The Problem
    I cannot get the car to rev above 2500-2700 RPMS, or the car is in "Limp Mode" if you will. Im throwing a TPS code(7) and an IACV (14), but my other motor revved fine with a broken TPS. The car Idles fine. I did some researching throughout various forums and saw that people with similar issues were having problems when the coolant sensor on the head wasnt hooked up, so I swapped that out and hooked it back up. Still wont rev. I was thinkin it was a vacuum problem, so I swapped around some vacuum lines and still the same problem. I swapped ignition wires, but havent swapped for new spark plugs yet. I checked the spring in the dizzy and its still intact, and furthermore swapped for another known working dizzy. Nothing. Swapped 3 known working ECUs, but yet and still. I KNOW The MAP and TPS aren't mixed up because I labeled all sensors and connections from both motors before the swap. I bled the coolant countless times, and even tightened the FITV. Timing is dead on on the Dizzy, and Timing Belt. Im losin my mind here fellas and could use some help. Any information would be huge. My last resort and final thought seems to be that shitty OBD0 intake mani and TB being the problem, but........im lost. [​IMG] [​IMG]





    Cliff Notes:

    -OBD0 motor into an OBD2 chassis with OBD2 harness.
    -Did NOT swap any sensors, they are all OBD0.
     
  2. killercannible

    killercannible Senior Member

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    I would swap out the whole throttle body for an obd1 or 2 throttle body. If your throwing a tps code then your car will not run right. Also you should not have rewired your iacv plug, obd0 iacv plugs right in to your existing harness so change that back. I have an obd0 b16 swap in my 97 ex coupe also so i know what your going through. I swapped out the intake manifold completely because the obd0 ones are junk and I also used an obd1 dizzy because i have heard obd0 ones don't run right on obd1 ecu's. Also a chipped p06 should run vtec if it is chipped for your setup. I have a chipped p06 with neptune in my car right now. It is a wiring problem you are having so just relax and swap some plugs around and you'll find the issue. Lastly, how does it idle when it runs, does it sound right or does it sound like the motor is running rough?
     
  3. SlowCGP_EJ8

    SlowCGP_EJ8 New Member

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    The motor idles perfect, right around 900 RPMs, Its just whenever I rev the car, it seems like its got 2 step at 2500. The TB and IM were next on my list. Did you swap any sensors, or did you use all the old OBD0 sensors?
    I appreciate the reply, and the info.
    Oh and one more question. There was a 2 prong sensor on the back of the b16 block, that I did not have a plug to match with on the harness, so its not connected.. any idea what plug that is and if it is crucial to the motor or not?
     
  4. killercannible

    killercannible Senior Member

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    Two prong sensor on the back of the block is the knock sensor, but obd0 knock sensors are different than obd1 and 2's so don't plug it in. Your ecu probably won't look for it anyway because its been chipped. There really isn't anything that needs to be swapped. Your intake air temp sensor is on your intake instead of the manifold(so it dosn't need any conversion), you can run your civic obd2 injectors, You don't need to plug in your crank fluctuation sensor cause obd1 dosn't look for it. There is only 4 sensors on the whole engine and they really havn't changed since the first gen motors. Just make sure your distributor is wired right and injectors are in the right order and everything else should be good.
     
  5. SlowCGP_EJ8

    SlowCGP_EJ8 New Member

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    Dizzy is the same exact plug as my LS dizzy that came out of the car previously, so i know thats not the problem. injectors are 100% correct.
     
  6. SlowCGP_EJ8

    SlowCGP_EJ8 New Member

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    Still not runnin right, bump for more insight.
     
  7. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    What's the point of having a B16 if the VTEC isn't working? You might as well have the stock D-series motor, the torque output isn't much different. You just need to suck it up, and buy the proper OBD2 accessories, and also do something about your ECU. If your P06 is chipped it should be able to run VTEC, so it's probably not using the appropriate maps then. Get the appropriate OBD2 parts, and then either get it re-tuned or just swap to an OBD2 ECU.

    Or alternatively I guess you could just swap it to OBD1 and use a chipped P28. That might be your best choice as far as future ease of modification and tuning goes...

    EDIT: Nevermind, I see that you are running an OBD2 to OBD1 conversion. I think something's not right with your ECU. If it's chipped and programmed appropriately, it should be able to run VTEC and tune out some of these sensors that are causing you problems. I think maybe it's time for a different ECU tune.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2008
  8. SlowCGP_EJ8

    SlowCGP_EJ8 New Member

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    It's a chipped P06, it's not converted to VTEC. I used the ecu on my buddies B16 and it ran perfect, just didnt have VTEC. It's not an ECU problem, because I had an OBD2 b16 ECU, and a virgin P28. It still did the same shit. What proper OBDII accessories would I need.. because besides the sensors on the block and head, eveything is OBD2. Alt, injectors, dizzy..?

    EDIT: The chip in the ECU is a bonestock B16 basemap. Stock fuel and ignition / timing. Forgot to mention.
     
  9. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Well, if you're going to run OBD2, then you you probably need the OBD2 sensors as well. The intake mani might be contributing to the problem too.

    And as for the VTEC thing, I'm just saying I don't understand why you're content with it not working. Like I said previously, a B16 without VTEC isn't much better than a D-series. Is this a money issue? If you're not limited by funds, then I'd just pick up a more tuneable ECU that's OBD1 (i.e. a P28), run your VTEC wires, and use the motor the way it was meant to be used.
     
  10. SlowCGP_EJ8

    SlowCGP_EJ8 New Member

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    Money isnt an issue at all, It was time.. My LS took a dump, and I needed something NOW, and pieced it together however I could. The car runs fine now, the issue was the OBD0 throttle body / TPS- and even with VTEC not working it's not half bad, It's actually more then what I expected of it without VTEC from a previous LS/ B16 trans owner.

    But, problem is solved- thanks to everyone who contributed.

    Edit- Car runs fine, but after the other night I took it out for a spin and my headlights blew out. Plus my SRS light and battery light came on. Do you think I have an alternator issue now?
     
  11. 1989civichatch

    1989civichatch jdm

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    just drive it off a bridge and save us all some trouble
     
  12. SlowCGP_EJ8

    SlowCGP_EJ8 New Member

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