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swap or mod?

Discussion in 'Accord' started by bez, Apr 1, 2007.

  1. bez

    bez New Member

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    Hi, this is my first time posting here and i'm lloking for some help. i have a 96 accord LX MT. i was going to do an h22 swap but i't going to be too much headache passin emissions. so what mods can i do so that i can get some more power? i'm just using it as a daily driver but i'd like to feel some more power.
    i was reading about the h23 IM swap. what else can i do?
     
  2. hondaburner95

    hondaburner95 Banned

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    yeah you can swap the h23 intake manifold , you can put h23 head on your f22 block , thats great for boosting. the only way your going to get power out of that motor is to boost , would cost an extreme amount of money to built the f-series. If your looking for some more power and dont want to spend much money , well get a stock h23 intake manifold , with the cold air intake , maybe a nice exhaust , greddy evo sounds nice !! it all depends on the amount of money you have to spend ,if your tranny is in good shape then all you need is the h22 motor. ecu wiring harness and some nice motor mounts to finish it up . jdm h22a1 runs from 700-1200 , well thats what i have seen them for. Most motor swaps run about 1000 from a decent mechanic , but if you do it yourself , well make sure you got the right spot to perform the swap . GARAGE is a must !! If your planning to turbo later on , then keep the f22 motor , compression ratio is 8:8 1 which is ideal for boostin . and f series sleeves are cast iron and not alloy like the h series , so you can run 14 psi with a good tune motor. Plus since you have cast iron sleeves you can throw some forged internals in there without havin to get it sleeved, sleeving the block runs about 1000 alone . So if you want to boost , get the h23 head and inakemanifold , 92-97 prelude . you will need another ecu and wiring harness to complete the swap not to mention the other odds and ends , heres a great site that will tell you how to perform the swap so see if it is something that you might want to do and go from there .


    http://hondaswap.com/hybrid-ba-bb-ca-cd/f22xx-block-h23-head-73854/
     
  3. bez

    bez New Member

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    the h22 swap would be ideal for me but its just too much work to make it pass emissions here in ny. how about the h23 intake manifold and adding the v-tec and maybe CAI headers.... my stock engine is supposed to be 130 hp id like to get about 50 more
     
  4. dbone_vtec

    dbone_vtec HONDA 4 LIFE

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    You Wouldn't Have Problems Passing Emissions As Long As The Swap

    Was Done The Right Way;)
     
  5. powerdriverh22

    powerdriverh22 Senior Member

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    the h22/h23 heads do require modification to mate up to the f22/f23 blocks. but for the money id say boost it. that will easily give you the extra 50 ponies you are lookin for
     
  6. bez

    bez New Member

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    i thnk i'll go that route then. well i can get the the jdm f22 vtec engine installed for 1000. i think i'll do that too since mine is non vtec and 200k miles. i dont think it'll be safe to boost an engine with such high mileage.
     
  7. hondaburner95

    hondaburner95 Banned

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    h23 head doesnt require any modification to bolt to the f22 block , the h22 does becuz of oil passages. I have bolted a h23 head to the f22 block and it was a simple bolt up.

    What mods are you talking about ???
     
  8. bez

    bez New Member

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    well, yeah but that will be about 3500 and lots of work.
    i started thinking about more power after getting 17's my ride got slower.....
    so i'd just like to be able to keep up with my other friends civics and integras...
    but if the head swap or the vtec conversion are not really worth it the i guess i'll just go for the swap or even boost
     
  9. powerdriverh22

    powerdriverh22 Senior Member

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    all of the coolant passages too?
     
  10. hondaburner95

    hondaburner95 Banned

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    look i followed these directions and never had a problem with the coolant passages and i swapped on to a f22b1 block that was vtec . now the h22 i can not vouch for , never tried to swap h22 head on f22, you not talking about both heads are you

    Step 1: Collection Process.. For this Headswap you need a decent amount of parts so without further adeu heres the parts list


    F22A/H23A HEADSWAP

    -H23A Head Complete(cams/cam gears/etc)
    -H23A intake manifold complete(fuel injectors/throttle body/sensors)
    -H23A Timing gear(crankshaft)-this piece may be a little hard to find but shouldnt have too hard of a time finding someone parting out a h23a
    -H23A Headgasket kit
    -F23A Headgasket
    -H23A Timing Belt
    -H23A Balancer Shaft Belt
    -New Head stubs (OEM,Aftermarket whichever floats your boat)

    Recommendation: Have the head rebuild since the headgasket kit already includes valve stem seals that u an have replaced.. and since the head is off why not rebuild it (150-200 for rebuild)


    Thats the Main Chunk of Parts Needed to Complete this Hybrid


    P-R-O-C-E-S-S
    REMOVE THE TERMINALS FROM YOUR BATTERY and set them aside
    PART I
    1.park your car where u will be working it for the entirety of the time it takes you to do this
    2. raise the hood and allow the engine to cool off (go watch some tv for an hour or so)
    3.get yourself some sort of bucket(fits under the front end) and remove the coolant butterfly. Allow the Coolant to drain
    4.while the coolant is draining u can go ahead and begin to remove parts
    -Stock intake airbox/Short ram
    -Distributor,spark plug wires
    probably by the time your somewhere in those two steps the coolant has stopped trickling into the bucket..

    5.pop your fuel door and open the gas cap(this allows the built up pressure to be released)
    6.loosen the service nut on the fuel rail (have a rag handy to catch an fuel that may squirt out). you are doing this to release the rest of the pressure that may be still in the line
    7.remove the fuel pressure regulator/fuel line(dont forget those washers) and set the fuel rail w/injectors aside somewhere
    8.with pliers you can begin to remove coolant lines that connect the intake manifold to the thermostat housing
    9.unbolt the thermostat housing (3x10mm) it is not neccessary to remove it off of the water pipe but just simply unbolt it so its not attached to the intake manifold (coolant will flow once this is removed, i suggest u place the bucket in the proximity that the coolant will drop down)

    10. remove the throttle cable
    11. begin to unbolt the intake manifold the top nuts can be accessible with a 10mm wrench. this step takes patience, u will end up finding ur own way on removing them
    11b.the bottom center nuts of the intake manifold are quite hard to get to for this i suggest u use a long extension or two short extensions put together i myself use a 6" extension coupled with a 3" extension to reach the middle bottom bolt which is impossible to reach through the top
    11c.once all of the I/M bolts are removed raise the car (move the bucket... more coolant will flow) get under the car and remove the bottom bolt to the bracket that attaches the intake manifold to the block

    12.unplug all of the sensors connected and vac lines (tps,egr,iat,iacv,)
    13.unbolt the pwr steering line holder and harness holder these are located on the drivers side (look next to the cam gear area.. you'll see a bolt strapped to the intake manifold holding the pwr steering line and harness to it remove both of these bolts)
    14.slowly begin to shimmy the intake manifold off of the head
    15. once u manage to get the flange portion(part that was attached to the head) over the valvecove.. reach under with pliers and remove the ziptie like holder that keeps the harness attached to the intake manifold.. once this is removed u can pull the intake manifold up and away

    PART II
    1.Remove the heatshield from the stock exhaust manifold(u will have to unplug the o2 sensor and slide the harness through the heatshield
    2.slide under the car and remove the 3 bolts that connected the top portion of the exhaust manifold to the down pipe(bottom portion)
    ----this step is only needed if u plan on replacing the stock exhaust manifold with an aftermarket header----
    3.near the flexpipe there are 2 bolts that connect the flexpipe area to the chasis remove these 2 bolts
    4.get back to the engine bay and remove the bolts to the exhaust manifold
    4b.shimmy out the exhaust manifold and set it aside

    5.unbolt/remove the pwr steering pump from its bracket and set it aside, along with belt
    6.loosen tension on alternator unbolt/remove and set aside (along with belt)
    7.begin to unbolt the timing cover(s) the easiest one to get to is the top
    7b.once the top timing cover is off simple cut the belt why i say this? well ur not gonna need the belt your not putting the same head back.. and i doubt u could sell it to anybody so why bother with having to loosen the tensioner right now? [​IMG]

    8.get yourself a hydrolic jack and a piece of wood(sturdy and flat)
    8b. place the jack with wood under oil pan and slowly begin to raise the jack until u can see that the weight has been taken off the motor mounts
    9.remove the drivers side motor mount bolt(19mm i think)
    10. go back under and lower the jack slowly NOT all the way just enough until u see the crank bolt clearly enough where u can get tools on it
    11.Remove Valvecover
    11b.unbolt head in according sequence(see manual)
    11c.set aside somewhere away from dirt/grim/grass etc if u plan on reselling
    12. go back under and remove the bottom timing cover and set aside
    13. rotate crank manually with ratchet until piston #1 is at TDC(piston closet to timing side) TDC=Piston is at highest point in compression stroke
    13b. this is up to you.. u can deside to attempt to remove the crank bolt yourself.. you can buy the special tool for this.. there are a million ways/tricks/tips to do this.. i will not discuss them.. just get it done.

    14.once the bolt is off remove the crank pulley and pay attention for the key it may or may not fall down when u pull the crank pulley out
    14b.remove crank timing gear
    14c.replace crank timing gear with p14 timing gear(17 teeth)
    15. Flip h23a head on a table or some work-able area place the f23a headgasket on it and fill in the blind hole with hondabond and with your finger rub some of the hondabond in that part of the gasket
    16. clean up block from any old gasket material it may have.. or dirt grime etc
    17.if aftermarket headstuds have been purchased insert them now
    18.spray copper gasket on block and on the bottom of the h23a head(Gasket area)
    19.place h23a head WITH intake manifold( heavy i know) onto block with care to not move to much the f23a gasket

    PART III
    1.Reinstall the Camshafts with cam gears on (UP letters facing ^) into their corresponding locations (cams are marked INT= INTAKE EXT=EXHAUST
    2.lube up the cam bodies with assembly lube (lithium grease)
    3.place cam caps back onto their corresponding locations (in corresponding order)
    4.go back under and remove the plug covering the access way for the rear balance shaft
    5.insert a screw driver into the access hole and rotate balancer shaft until locked
    6.while down there loosen the tensioner bolt to release the tension it may have preciously had
    7.FOLLOW MANUAL ON REINSTALLATION OF A TIMING BELT
    8.Reinstall bolt for access hole/timing

    9.replace timing belt covers
    10.raise up jack holding motors weight to align bolt hole for motor mount bolt
    10b tighten down the bolt to spec and lower the jack SLOWLY
    11.Install Valvecover gakset/valvecover/tighten down
    12.install distributor and make sure u have firing order correct
    12b.1-4-3-2 (im tired as shit but i believe its right)
    12c. install fresh NEW spark plugs

    13.plug in distributor/egr/tps/iat/iacv/all vacumn lines
    14.install top portion of new header OR stock exhaust manifold
    14b.disconnect stock downpipe from cat and replace with new aftermarket downpipe OR simply bolt up the stock exhaust manifold to the stock downpipe
    15. Drain oil/Replace Oil Filter
    15b.Replace oil with your brew (Mobile 1 is my canidate,switching to redline soon due to some convincing [​IMG] )
    16.Bolt up Thermostat Housing/Coolant lines/make sure everything is button down tight
    16b.look over everything
    16c.look over everything
    16d.LOOK OVER EVERYTHING
    16e.L-O-O-K O-V-E-R E-V-E-R-T-H-I-N-G!!

    17.Reinstall your alternator/ a/c belt
    17b. reinstall alternator/reinstall pwr steering (if ur keeping it,pwr str is for pussys)
    17c.recheck over everything one last time
    18.remove ECU fuse
    18b. crank the motor over a few times without the ecu fuse (this will allow oil pressure to be built up)
    19.install ecu fuse
    20.hop inside your car, turn the ignition key to on (make sure u hear the fuel pump priming)
    21. turn over key and hold (may take a lil longer then normal for it to turn on for the first time) once its on quickly get out and check your work
    22.look over fuel rail for leaks/vacumn leaks(if ur idle is surging ) pay close attention to everything.. if it sounds fine let it be till it warms up
    23.once warmed up check temperature if its normal proceed to check other problems you may be having

    24.fine adjustments (adjust the idle screw), FIV(theres a DIY on here) , Bleed the Coolant,check for any vacumn leaks,set distributor timing with a timing gun, check for any leaks from coolant lines
    24b. once this checks out hop by in your car and give it a few light revs (2,500rpm is fine) everything still there? shes still on? [​IMG]
    24c. put your tires back on tidy up and pull it out of your driveway.. DO NOT GO ONTO A MAIN ROAD
    25.drive it around your neighborhood/block/street/w.e slowly..
    25b. raise in rpm to about 3,000rpm and shift getting a feel for it, listen very carefully for any wierd noises or leaks that may spring(coolant lines like to burst a leak randomly)... check your temperature if its fine proceed.. after a good 10-15minute drive take it back home
    26.park it.. turn it off. and pop the hood again.. give it another inspection.. if all's well u can begin to really tidy up the engine bay and make things look nice..
     
  11. dbone_vtec

    dbone_vtec HONDA 4 LIFE

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    SWAP THE 17'S FOR SLIPS OR STOCKIES

    LIGHTER THE BETTER:driver: "D"
     
  12. bez

    bez New Member

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    i was looking for some prelude wheels but got these at a good price. and i like the look too. but some stock prelude were my 1st choice
     
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