swap troubles

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supaCOUPE

Member
I am having a few troubles with my swap... first, my alternator is giving me problems. the plug on the alternator is a is a four wire, but the plug on the harness is a 3 wire plug. the harness is missing the green/white wire. the alternator control "something!"

and the wiring harness for the D16Y7 is not reaching all of the other sensor plugs. i.e. the o2 sensor.



this is really frustrating!
 
Like I said in the other thread, just use the other harness, and extend the wires that are short.

For the alternator, find where the fourth wire goes, and just hardwire it seperately.
 
do you think there are any differences since my car is Euro spec, and the motor is American spec????? In the harnesses i mean?
 
You're just using some of the wires to lrngthen yours, so it won't matter.
 
Originally posted by 92b16vx@Aug 22 2004, 03:30 PM
You're just using some of the wires to lrngthen yours, so it won't matter.
[post=380322]Quoted post[/post]​




this swap is turning into a nightmare. we got her running, but the check engine light is on??? and she won't go into gear????????
 
1. check the code a report back
2. is there pressure from the clutch
3. is the linkage hooked up properly
4. are the axles in properly, if you need to use the clutch to engage any gear and it just doesnt go anywhere it's probably just an axle

I had the same problem with the not going into gear cant rememebr what it was though
 
had the same problem follow you plug from your d16 alt. and add the wire to it you can open the fourth hole there is a plastic cover on there that comes off with ease just add the wire i did it and it worked just fine just make sure you keep it in the right order
 
yo... the alternator problem was handled with a custom bracket and used the d16y7 alt, checked it and it was charging fine.

but some problems,

1. was driving home and the damn thing started to over heat. pulled over and check it, there was anti-freeze all over the radiator, and none of the hoses seemed to be leaking. it looked like the radiator cap got too hot, because it broke off inside the radiator!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

2. when i lightly step on the gas, the idle goes up and down continuiously. when i step on the gas hard, it revs fine.

3. when i let up off the gas a little, i hear and feel a little clunk (i think someone did not tighten down the rear mount all the way.)

4. NO VTEC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! we did the two step IACV fix, what else was i suppose to do????
 
The irratic idle is more than likely due to the coolant problem. Get a new cap, refill the radiator (with the broken part removed), bleed to spec and see what's up. As for the vtec, are you throwing a code, which one is it?
 
well, i went back and checked it today, and the radiator was bone dry. so i filled her up, let her run for a while, and continuously filled it till it was full. she ran home with no temp problems.

how soon should i get a bigger radiator???? is it "urgent?"

as for vtec... we have the plug connected on the side of the solenoid (spelling), but how do i fabricate the plug that goes to the front??? the one that hangs down on that little perch?

i got rid of my power steering, but the mechanic at the shop where we were working said i have to change out the whole steering mechanism... is this true?

also, will my stock exhaust work for a little while?

how get the ecu to show me what codes i am throwing? i was told i had to make a bridge between two wires, but he couldn't tell me which ones exactly???
 
The rradiator is fine, many use the stock OEM one.

For the vtec, I'm not sire what you mean about the plug, but if it were me, i'd just un wires from the solenoid through the firewall straight t the ECU, then blend them into the harness.

You need to loop the hoses on the PS, or replace with a manual rack. You don't HAVE to, but a PS rack without the pump working is harder to turn, so it's your call.
 
Originally posted by supaCOUPE@Aug 28 2004, 02:18 PM
yo... the alternator problem was handled with a custom bracket and used the d16y7 alt, checked it and it was charging fine.

??
[post=383043]Quoted post[/post]​

what kind of bracket did you use? i just changed the plug when i used the d series alt the pulley was rubbing the frame so how did you do it?
 
Originally posted by mrnice1058+Aug 30 2004, 08:50 AM-->
supaCOUPE
@Aug 28 2004, 02:18 PM
yo... the alternator problem was handled with a custom bracket and used the d16y7 alt, checked it and it was charging fine.

??
[post=383043]Quoted post[/post]​

what kind of bracket did you use? i just changed the plug when i used the d series alt the pulley was rubbing the frame so how did you do it?
[post=383621]Quoted post[/post]​



we connected the bracket from the d16 alt, after shaving it down a little and bending it forward just a tad, to the bracket on the b16 motor!
 
why did you go to all the trouble to make the D alt work? Ive never seen only 3 wires in the green alt plug but if you say so, why didnt you just add a wire?
 
Originally posted by vtec84lude@Sep 6 2004, 10:51 PM
why did you go to all the trouble to make the D alt work? Ive never seen only 3 wires in the green alt plug but if you say so, why didnt you just add a wire?
[post=386797]Quoted post[/post]​



it only took five minutes to do it, vs. trying to hardwire another wire!
 
still need to wire up vtec... the single green w/ yellow stripe wire, but where does this one pin into the ecu?
 
Wait one................

............................


OBD IIb ECU right?

wiring.99-01.jpg


OBD-2b "B" plug 3-wire IACV repin diagram

wiring.99-01_b-plug.jpg
 
not sure how much that is going to help me out??? i am running an obd1 p30 ecu (with conversion harness) onto an obd2a wiring harness????

another question... i have to hardwire another plug, the one right near the alternator??? but i don't know what the plug is, or where to run it into the ecu. it is located in front of the alternator?????
 
If you got the right conversion harness, it should take everything into account, and move it to the proper spot.

As far as you random plug, sorry man, I got no manuals here.
 
i think i know what my little "clunk" noise is when i let off the accelerator. in all the articles i have read, it says you are suppose to trim back your stock exhaust a little when you use it in your swap... but we didn't, and i can feel the clunk right under my feet, close to where the exhaust manifold bolts to the exhaust piping. does this part of the motor flex a little when de-accelerating?
 
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