Swaping B18B to either B18C1 or C5. Which one?

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94teg

Junior Member
Well i am deciding on a swap right now. I have the motor and alll pulled from my 94 LS right now. I want to get a motor ordered in the morning. I really wana do the C5. But i am worried about wiring. And what all i would need to do to make it wire up right. I duno much about wiring and dont know how to do much of that when it comes to motors. Would the GSR wire it correctly better than the C5?
 
Well yes the b18c1 is going to be easilier to wire up since it is the same obd as your car. The b18c5 is going to be obd2a or obd2b. A better question would be what is the main goal of the car? What are you future plans? Are you doing the swap yourself?
 
ok thank u. So the c1 would be better? No i am not doin the swap myself. The guy whos doin it dont know much about making extra wires for jdm motors and such. Thats the only downside to it. I would need full insutructions on how to do this. Well i got a trubo kit held for me right now. And yes i would like to turbo the c5 and i know what ur goin to tell me is not to. Which everyone one has but i wanted to be different with it. PLus only run low boost around 4-5 pounds. the c5 i want is from a 96-97 type r with the p73 ecu if u needed to know that
 
Hey being different is one thing, being stupid is another. Get the B18c1 if you are going to turbo it. Use the money you saved to port and polish your head. You will be much better off.

Chris
 
agreed. if you going turbo to the b18c1. if your going NA use the b18c5. The money for a turbo setup will be better spents and produce more on the c1 vs wasting it on getting a red valve cover :)

although it is a really sweet valve cover
 
ok.... enough with turbo lol.. What do i need to do then to get the GSR to wire up right to mine? I need to let the guy know whos doin the swap what is needed. I need to know by today so i can get it ordered!!
 
Ok. Well instead of the type r i ordered the JDM b18C gsr motor! I got it today and should be here soon. So hopefully this will be a easier install than the type r will be? I got the complete changeover with all the stuff i need.
 
if the person that's putting your motor in is not sure how to wire it take it somewhere else. I have seen so many mechanics F*ck up honda swaps because all they know how to do is change the oil in your mom's caravan.
 
Well i dont know who else to take it to. They arent really any places that does that kind of stuff around here!!
 
Well, since those that responded screwed you by not know what they were talking about, good luck on the GSR swap, since there is MORE wiring involved to make it run. C5 doesn't have IABs, like the C1, which need to be wired up, on top of the things that the two have in common like the vtec and knock sensor. Fact is either motor would have plugged RIGHT into your car OBD I, II, IIb with very small differences, and only required a jumper, for the ECU, or a chipped version that pluged right in.
 
^ finally someone who knows anything. too late i guess.

but the c1 honestly is a better choice for boost. i wouldn't worry too much about getting the wiring sorted out. just do your homework, it's really not that difficult. once you get it running you'll be very pleased. one thing you should definately get with the money saved is the skunk2 intake manifold for the c1, so you don't have to deal with the secondary butterflies. the intake mani on the c1 is definately a big draw back.
 
are u freraking serious? god... well i duno wat to do then.. i want my money back then if its goin to be fucking ridiculously hard to make the stupid thing work......
 
it's not going to be ridiculously hard no matter what motor you swap in- for one thing, you def. didn't need the complete changeover, because the mounts from your B18b as well as the shift linkage will both work with your new power plant- All you're looking at doing is running wires from IAB and knock sensor and vtec to the correct pin locations on your ECU and then plugging in the OBD I P72 ecu that came with your swap from hmotors

EDIT- please tell me why the IAB on the stock GSR manifold is a big drawback? do you have any idea at all how variable length intake runners work? other than running two more wires in order to get the IAB to function, there is no drawback, on a stock motor, to having the IAB's in operation
 
Originally posted by Slammed90Lude@May 4 2004, 03:43 PM
please tell me why the IAB on the stock GSR manifold is a big drawback?
Click to expand...

better low end <_<


well honda seems to think its a bad thing anyway :ph34r:
 
Not to pick on you, but you should have done more homework before doing this swap. If the guy whos doing your swap cant pull this off, who was going to do your turbo kit? But on the bright side its really not that bad. The board is a great resorce for info. Just do some searching, and keep you rthread going and im sure your going to be fine.

Edit:
Think of it as a way of learning, so your not just some guy with money that paid to get his stuff done but has no idea how it works.
 
i'd take top end over low any day. but i race my car :driver:

aside from the power band, the gsr manifold sucks because: it's a bitch to get on and off - especially in the car. there's a stud in the middle that shouldn't be there ... poor design. also it doesn't fit in a civic engine bay too well ... but you have a teg anyway. i really hate that mani. the skunk2 is a huge bang for your buck upgrade.
 
yup. my friends gsr with just i/h/e picked up 8 @ the wheels with the skunk mani. he lost some before 3k, gained about 5-7 through the midrange, & 8 more at 7300. the torque curve picked up nicely too. this was on a dynojet.

get that sucker ported along with your head and it'll be even greater. or better yet, just do some itbs. ;)
 
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