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Swapping a B20B into a 92-95 Civic

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by Nightwars, Feb 27, 2010.

  1. Nightwars

    Nightwars New Member

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    Hello,

    I looked around, found a few pages here and there, still I feel I am lacking information.

    My situation : I have an auto-tragic DA Integra 91(OBD-0) with a CR-V B20B 97(OBD-2) engine. Since the DA floor is starting to disappear quickly I am looking for a body to swap my engine into (+/- 100k on the engine).

    I found a few 92-95 Civic's with next to no rust, but my big concern is... What about my wiring harnesses, since its obd-2 to obd-0 and now I want it to obd-1? What should I expect to change?

    Also I know I need manual tranny + starter, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, shift linkage etc..
    But what else?

    What about the engine mounts?

    What kind of parts should I start looking for and any advices or hick-up I should know before starting a swap of this kind?

    One last question, ECU, keep the one I have now? change it?

    Thank you very much

    P.S. I'm going to graduate my car mecanic class in a month, so I know the basics.
     
  2. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    You can use most of the engine mounts in the 92-95 civic. I know you need the t-bracket mount for a B series and I think the rest is good to go (but read that there's another B series mount needed for certain models not sure of its validity) My 2 swaps had all the mounts when I got it.

    What was done to the motor to put it in the DA? In terms of what OBD is the Distributor, Alternator, Injectors, Intake manifold (B20 IM and 92-95 hoods don't like each other...not sure on the DA)

    If things have been converted to OBD1, the engine harness in the civic will plug right in. What ECU do you have now? OBD what?

    I would suggest a B16 hydro trans. it will wake that B20 up...as long as you don't mind 5th gear 4,000rpm's @ 70-72mph.
     
  3. RickEXEK

    RickEXEK B20 ADDICT

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    Hasport makes kits that lets you use your cable trans in a hydro car so you can use the complete drivetrain you have in the teg on any B-swap. As for the ECU I have always heard to use the correct obd for the car that works on the engine. I have a OBD1 P75 for a 5SPD if you are interested. Other things you will need if you don't already have on the engine; OBD1 distributor, fuel injectors (same as OBD2), 4 wire O2 sensor.
     
  4. Nightwars

    Nightwars New Member

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    I heard about the T Bracket (Wonder if I have it, or need one from a 94-00 'teg)

    I brought the car already swapped so I'm clueless to what was done to it for the swap.

    Everything seems to come from the DA except the block + head. (Alternator was changed a few months ago for a Integra 91 Alternator) I have the MPFI intake not the girafee one. (I have a JDM B20B).
    How can I I.D. all those part and relate them to a OBD?

    I'll need to I.D. my ECU, since I have no idea what ECU it is, since it's Automatic
     
  5. Nightwars

    Nightwars New Member

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    How much does a p75 run for?

    I'll try to see what kind of distributor I have (Any easy way to I.D the obd?)

    I cannot keep my Tranny, since it's a crappy automatic I'll switch to manual.
    I'm looking for an LS tranny, for now, and if budget permit, I'll look for something else.
     
  6. RickEXEK

    RickEXEK B20 ADDICT

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    Sorry, didn't realize you had an auto. Alternator is OBD specific too. I think you can change the connector on them but don't quote me. Best way to ID your parts is to check numbers if possible or just look at pics and compare. I'll sell you my P75 for $80 shipped. It's listed in the F/S section.
     
  7. suspendedHatch

    suspendedHatch audio/security

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    Once you know what ECU you have, you know what OBD generation it is. Hopefully it's OBD1 already. Then you can just put a manual hydro tranny on it and drop it into an EG. Get the entire shift linkage etc just like putting a B into an EG.

    Easy way to tell the OBD of the distributor is to look at the plug. If it's a big yellow plug, it's OBD0. If it's a rectangle gray plug and a fat square grey plug, it's OBD1. If it's one big grey plug, then it's OBD2.

    GSR trans would be the best for a daily driver. LS would be the cheap way out. It would work fine, but it's a serious performance compromise that no amount of modification can ever make up for.
     
  8. Nightwars

    Nightwars New Member

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    As soon as I am done with my job today, I'll look for the OBD plug on the distributor, by knowing what obd is it in, I`ll probably get to know what ECU I have by knowing my component obd's.

    Is there a stamp on the ecu to know the type?
     
  9. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    Sticker on the ECU with a bar code. Tell us the numbers. Worse case scenario is you need a new dizzy, alt, injectors, ecu....plus the transmission and mounts. Best case is just a transmission, ECU (b/c yours would be A/T) and a mount or two because everything on your DA is OBD1 now
     
  10. Nightwars

    Nightwars New Member

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    My distributor cap is obd-2 so that tells me quite a lot about the rest of the component.

    My ECU is a PR-4, Serial number is : 378-20-pr4-a60
    Obd0 or Obd1?
     
  11. Nightwars

    Nightwars New Member

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    Sorry for the double post, My Distributor is actually OBD-1. My mistake.
     
  12. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    I would "think" its the OBD1 PR4 (but there is a PR4 OBD0 too) I think its OBD1 b/c of the Distributor being OBD1 too. If the ditributor is OBD1....then most likely everything else is too. It shoudl be a easier swap then. But you will need mounts and a OBD1 engine harness.

    One way for me to know if its OBD0 or OBD1 is the plugs into the ECU. Can you take a picture of the plugs? I know OBD1 is a 3 plug at the ECU but not sure about OBD0. I'll know by looking at it.
     
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