synthetic vs regular oil

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If you don't put good synthetic in your trans, it'l probably wear your bearings out in 20k miles.
 
well maybe not 20k miles but a lot sooner than it would be if you didnt have synthetic. BTW auto trannies can benefit a LOT from having oil with a high boiling point. Quite often if you have a modified engine with an auto tranny, it will cause the tranny to have a lot more heat build up...due to the increased power, which leads to some of the same problems that an engine can have.
 
The only time I have had a tranny start to fail was when I used (in ignorance) 10w30 motor oil in it. This is a really bad idea.

As for which synthetic to run. I use synthetic exclusively in my motor, but I am going to change to Red Line from Mobil1 after reading the arguments posted by Bror Jace on H-T. I first read his stuff on HAN before it went down. He is the most knowledgable person I have ever talked to about automotive fluids. His stuff is always logical and he backs his claims up with facts not media/advertising hype.

As for dino or synthetic if you are NA, and changing your oil every 3000 miles it doesn't really matter which one you use. The dino starts to break down faster than the synth, but 3000 miles is not enough to do any damage unless your are only racing this engine or running it excessively hard on the street.

From now on it will be RedLine only in my engines.
 
My experience comes from racing and street motors...

Street motors - after initial break in on dino squeezings, I have run Mobil 1 in all my motors - most over 200K miles with no rebuilds, period. All do not burn oil and still give me the same gas mileage as they did at 10K miles. I have rebuilt a few of the motors to see what they looked like...I could still see the cross hatch marks in the cylinder walls and the breaings in the bottom end were smooth and shiny - no obvious oiling problems could be found.

Race motors have been another story...after initial break in and switching to ANY synthetic, we saw premature wear on the back face of the exhaust cam lobes. Taking the exact same motors and running them with good old dino squeezings (Valvoline 50W Racing Oil) the camshafts still look perfect after many hours of running. These motors get rebuilds every 8 to 12 HOURS of run time and live all of their life between 6K and 9K - they are not toy motors!

JM2cents...

Kirk
 
I have, never again. They market it as a full synthetic, it isn't. Their site is full of technobable that is completely meaningless. They are charging you twice too much for a synth blend with a little purple dye (that isn't their after a few hundred miles, I hate to think of where it ends up). In short, don't bother. If you want a high quality synth get RedLine or AmsOil.
 
While what lsvtec said may indeed be true, as far as my experience went, it was a great oil, blend or not. My car loved it when I used it. Maybe it was just because that was the first synth I used after the crappy dino oil.
 
Yeah redline is supposed to be the best...they use 100 percent poly something or other ethers in thir oil

I forgot the acutal word...hehe

and LSVTEC is pretty much right with all he said. If you are just daily driving your car like a grandma there probably only be a small difference in how much wear the engine takes. However, if you are driving it at 10 psi, synthetic oil can mean the difference between an engine that is in small pieces in your header, and for a mile behind you, and an engine that still runs perfectly.
 
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