Tell me what ya think:

Red Headed Stepchild

  • Pass it up, shop for something else entirely.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Keep the Broodwagon and continue shopping for one that's already what you want.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I fart

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    16

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Celerity

Well-Known Member
I decided that the last car I will ever own, that isn't completely built by me, will be an NX2000. So I decided to go all out, and start shopping for one in the $3000+ range. Something mint.


Well it's been a year to that effect, and it ain't happenin. So I found this:

56k Forget it.

It's not fabulous, but I can bring it home, get the motor out and send the shell out for repaint. New fenders, mild body work and maybe even a new door skin for about $400, then a happy coat of black-ass paint and when it comes back, I'll have an SR20VET ready for it. Total investment: $5000. Total horsepower: 300. (SR20VETs are 280ps factory)

All the glass is good, and the car isn't so bad (It's about the same shape as my Subaru).

Initial cost: $500. Check it out, vote. I'm selling my Subaru (IT's in the paper already) for $1500.
 
get it
i love those cars
sweet handling
plenty of power potential
not something you will pass 300 of on the way to the store
2 door hatchback t-tops :werd:
 
eh....

body doesnt really do it for me ... BUT

sounds like a cheap way to have a fast ass car, and im all for that :mrgreen:
 
ha, i voted i farted... 'cause i actually did. i wouldn't know what to tell ya though. i personally don't like the looks of those cars, they look a bit squished, and the front ends make it look like it has down syndrome. but yeah... if that's what you want, then go for it.
 
I lived in my old NX2000. Seriously.

I got this beautiful apartment, and I got a parking spot in the alley (I was the only car that could fit down it) and it was wonderful. Until I got kicked out of the apartment and lived in the glass greenhouse for a few weeks.

I love the tops in this car. The balance is also perfect. Alittle brakes to swing the ass around, alittle throttle to get the front out, pure genius. My old one was black, which I prefer, but I can get this repainted for a song and a dance. Maybe even trade the CRX for all the work, dunno. I will personally be sanding it (I'm world reknowned for my finishes) and blending the epoxy 2 stage black to make it mirror perfect. Slap on some black GT3 Rotas, build in some fender flares and away I go !

But this will take about a year, if I'm diligent.

The NX is actually, basically, in the same shape as the Subaru. The subaru motor I'm told is ok, but it sounds like a coffee can filled with nails. It makes all sorts of scary ass noises. It doesn't leak now, but it's only a matter of time before the boxer drops a head gasket and I'm done for.

and $150 for each brake caliper ? No thanks. I'll take Sentra repair costs, Supra seating, RX7 balance, MR2 SC performance and Camaro glass coverage, thank you.

Also, my NX2000 was a champion of the snow. I had to get up a hill to bail someone out, and when my dad showed up, he couldn't make the hill in his Jeep.
 
Well I was doing some shopping. I haven't hit the Hondaswap sponsors yet, but I will. I get a listing for the SR20VET out of an S14 (Front clip, with transmission for $3000) which seems alittle fishy, but it's a reputable source.

Other than that, I plan on getting an Xtrail motor from an Xtrail in either New Zealand, Philippines or maybe a Clayton source.

If you have any suggestions, I would love to hear them.
 
^yeah, VET's only came in the x-trail's



although there are plenty on SR16/20VE's running around with turbo kits on them...


$500 for any NX2000 that runs is dirt cheap. The motors worth $350 all day and if it doesn't have 5th gear pop-out, the tranny worth another $450

Not to mention the highly desired brakes in them (by all the SE-R guys)
 
Quoted post[/post]]
^yeah, VET's only came in the x-trail's



although there are plenty on SR16/20VE's running around with turbo kits on them...


$500 for any NX2000 that runs is dirt cheap. The motors worth $350 all day and if it doesn't have 5th gear pop-out, the tranny worth another $450

Not to mention the highly desired brakes in them (by all the SE-R guys)


the 5th gear pop-out is a function of the poor motor mounts. The Tranny didn't seem too different from the Sentra non-SE-R, with the exception of LSD. But I don't imagine the trans being too tough to get ahold of. It's geared stupid low anyway. Here is some email coorespondence:

> > .........and is the
> > lower end of the
> > motor ok? I will more than likely drive it home to
> > CT, but if the
> > lower end is going, or is knocking, then let me know
> > and I will bring
> > a trailer - It won't affect the sale of the car.
> >
> > I just don't want to die in Massachussetts when it
> > can be avoided.
> > Right now I can afford the car and it's registration
> > needs to pick it
> > up, but if I'm going to need a trailer I'll need to
> > wait an additional
> > week (And hopefully sell a car in the meantime)
> > Thanks !
> >
> > -> Steve


> Hi Steve,
> There isnt any knocking or such that will effect the
> driving, the biggest thing is the brakes are very
> spongy, as well as two tires in the front are totally
> worn down due to lack of front end alignment. The
> front right has a donut on it, but the front left is
> completely worn down. If you have a set of wheels you
> can put on the front, I would either recommend that or
> bring a trailer.
>

Does it sound to you, that he doesn't want me to kill him when it dies, so he's dodging the subject to get me to bring a trailer ? If this car dies, I'm up shit's creek. Is there anyway you guys know to diagnose a knocking motor before it gets so bad that you can hear it ?
 
Quoted post[/post]]
I could speak VOLUMES on this car, but just to make it simple....
Get the car.

Please, Speak volumes ! I'm always a fan of extra knowledge.

I owned one, but wasn't nearly as talented as I am now with auto work. The 5th gear pop-out is now only something I've heard described as "Having a fix" for it, and I remember my new mounts did the trick.

In all of these pics, I can't see if the windows are power or not. I'm not sure they ever came with power windows (Mine had every option, except it seemed, power windows... which is odd)

Any differences in the 93 to the 91 ? Did they finally get the foglights right ? Is the plastic still cheezy ?
 
Also, some pics:

Nice rear suspension:
img_2096.jpg

Nice Trailer, actually:
Matt_Oslund_93_N.jpeg

Comparing the common USDM nose to the German nose:
6264bff8.jpg

Another shot of the 180NX Front end from Germany:
DSC00687.jpg

EDM Lower airdam:
756444_76_full.jpg

I always liked this roof wing (But not the mid-wing)
Img_0005.jpg
 
Quoted post[/post]]
Quoted post[/post]]
I could speak VOLUMES on this car, but just to make it simple....
Get the car.

Please, Speak volumes ! I'm always a fan of extra knowledge.

I owned one, but wasn't nearly as talented as I am now with auto work. The 5th gear pop-out is now only something I've heard described as "Having a fix" for it, and I remember my new mounts did the trick.

In all of these pics, I can't see if the windows are power or not. I'm not sure they ever came with power windows (Mine had every option, except it seemed, power windows... which is odd)

Any differences in the 93 to the 91 ? Did they finally get the foglights right ? Is the plastic still cheezy ?


aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnddddddddddddddd go!



ok so to start where you were, 5th gear pop out in the 1.6 had to do with the syncros in the trans, in MOST other nissans it has to do with mounts and linkage. Its VERY rare however when it does happen its a pretty easy fix, but not really a quick thing.

Motor mounts. Nissan doesnt make decent motor mounts, I dont care what anyone tells you, they suck like a crackwhore thats been on a high for a week straight, HARD. Nismo has direct replacements that are a lot better. And several other companies make stuff

are you planning turbo or NA. I seriously could dry hump an allmotor sr20de till the day I die. 180fwhp is the end of bolt ons, but in those cars you are well into 13s. there is a guy on Nissanforums.com that did an overbore and sleeves and ended up with 210 and I am pretty sure he ran a mid 12. However cool all that is, these cars were not designed for anything straight. they like to turn and certain parts of them have little weak links that need to be fixed.

suspension. WHEEE! now we are talking. konis and groundcontrol custom coilevers and call it a day, 300lbs up front and 200s out back and your car just became the corner carver it always wanted to be.

the 4x100 wheel pattern goes out to almost every import car made in the late 80s early 90s so you have no problem with wheels .... 205-50/15s are BAMAZING on these cars are a very comfy fit inside of those wheel wells.

Brakes. to put this into perspective, the abs 2.0 NX is the best braking car nissan produced for 45 years. I talked to a guy that just removed the abs and he thinks its stopping a lot better. pads, lines, fuild its all gravy, just remember.... brakes... not exactly the weak spot of these cars.

Sway bars. whatever you find I want to know about.

and I could go on, but this is just parts





Now how about the car.



the Nx was the follow up to the pulsar of the late 80s. It came with 2 different motors. the Ga16de and the Sr20de. the Ga makes about 45mpg and the sr20 is nothing close to that.

forget about burning anything up internally. forged rods and crank make the bottom end VERY strong, in both motors the only downside is the pistons, but seriously... if you see over 600hp I think you would have already done something to the pistons.

heads on an sr20de arent exactly the greatest. Nissan never truly figured out what port velocity meant and never got a head that was all that great. Anything you do to a head is going to be a MASSIVE upgrade, and the reason that the SR20 relines where it does, is because the head wont flow enough air to keep going, past that the valvetrain cant keep up, and finally your bottom end comes apart at about 9500.... so.... yea.... do something to the head

the ttops, just like all nissans, are going to leak, you can fix it 2 ways

1. build up the seal on the top itself with black caulk

2. buy new seals to go around the top.

the rear hatch's pushrods like to stop working about 20 miles into their lives. a quick trip to oriellys or your favorite parts store fixes this one.

headlights, I have seen a kit to make them flush mounted, and it kind of makes it look like a ls1 camaro... take that as you will.

foglights, no. plainly put, they rattle and dont really work, you are better off getting some off the shelf at a parts store and mounting them securely


all of the plastics in the interior is almost exactly the same, the only thing that I think changed is the color.... but I could be wrong on that.

power windows didnt make it into nissan until 95, so if you find a NX with power windows, I wouldnt buy it.

by far the greatest part of this whole thing is an slogan that nissan had in 1990, something about light and go... I dont remember


anyway. the car weighs in at 2400lbs... so you can imagine, the light part is there, now all thats needed is a good checkbook or a nice piece of plastic to make the go part..




and if at any point you have questions, I have worked on 3 B13 NXs and 5 B13 sentras. so I hope I can help you out.
 
My older NX2000 (1991) had no power windows, but it had power locks and mirrors. It also lacked cruise. But the t-tops were there and worked well. The rear hatch struts worked well too. I had 20k on mine, and it had the 5th-gear pop out. I think it was an option. This one has power windows. It's a 93.

Mine was very easy to control during braking. Even doing tricks on snowy parking lots was a perfect balance.

Now about the motor part. My SR got high 20s, and I wasn't too easy on it. But it's all water under the bridge, because I understand that more recent SR20(X)xx motors are refined and perfected. My intent is to start at the top and work my way down - the SR20VET NEO-VVL motor from 2000. There were older NEOVVL systems, but as I understand it (None of it came to North America, did it ?) they didn't get the whole thing right. Magazines and enthusiasts alike are calling the latest gens of both SR20 and NEOVVL motors "The best DOHC 4 cylinder market-production motor ever made", with documented figures like 280 ps out of the box. The 3-profile cam system being like VTEC with a smoother transition (There are simply more powerbands). I don't see how you couldn't get an efficient motor out of this setup, and that with an easy foot and correct pace I could see 30 or maybe more mpg.

As far as budget, since this is my Swan Song, I'm thinking nothing short of Nismo / Kaira / Cusco etc.

I have also seen the headlight cover inserts, in person, and it's not too bad. I was gonna get some for mine.

Mine was finally taken out by an icycle from a 5th story awning. That car was really tough on the wallet when I had it, but I'm stronger, faster and more powerful now.

As far as custom head work, What do you think about a new cam profile for the SR20DE that's in there ? Would I be pissing on a $3000 tree by installing the NEOVVL motor in it instead of working with what I got?

Also, again, the brakes and suspension in those cars are sexual. The car corners so well and balanced that it's effortless. I slipped out of my 1982 Supra into my 91 NX2000 and the transition was seamless. Same power, more in the high end with the shorter gears (The Supra had torque and highway friendly gears) but the two cars were on par with cornering and braking. The NX lacked gauges, but gained in cupholder and roof coolness factor. Also, the NX was far easier to navigate around Boston, and had a tight as hell turning circle.

I think I'll like this car a lot. Now, anyone wanna buy a Subaru wagon ?

Big Picture alert:

NXPulsar.jpg


These are those headlight covers.
 
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