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the planing has begun

Discussion in 'Body / Exterior / Interior / Cosmetics' started by formby, Feb 16, 2006.

  1. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    so my boss doesnt use his 2 car garage, so i asked him if after i start the rex if i could use the garage to paint it.. and ill rebuild the bottom end while painting the shell

    so he agreed. and said after i painted mine he might want me to paint his acura


    keep in mind that this paint job is just to get some color and replace bumpers, skirts and remove small dents [if i can]

    i'm going to go with a flat black with satin clear like wills. just because flat black hides some imperfection & i've never done this before....but i'm willing to take my time and learn as much as possible

    i'm going to use the john deere black paint like in this thread click me

    and i'm going to use a nice primer but i'm not shure which one i'll use....and for clear ill use what ever you guys suggest

    .so i started looking for things ill need and some questions came up..


    1. what is the best cfm per psi for the gun?
    2.should i buy the guns first and then look for a compressor to rent?
    3. would these guns work? click me
    4. are there any brands or types of sand paper i should buy?
    5.what primer, flat clear coat?
    6. is a metalic color harder to spray?
    7. would it be wise to buy the compressor, or should i rent one the days ill be spraying? and what size? i might paint a couple cars if i do a good job
    8. would it be better to do all the prep work and take it to maaco or a cheap shop and have them paint the car with a top and clear coat?

    ive made a similar thread about this before but now i have the time and money to do it...also ive been researching and reading but i would like some direct feedback before i start this adventure...


    discuss [​IMG]
     
  2. Jeef

    Jeef NO MA'AM Moderator VIP

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    Flat will hide but when you put the satin on it will start to show some imperfections. They show as much as a gloss would.
     
  3. poops87

    poops87 Member

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    8. would it be better to do all the prep work and take it to maaco or a cheap shop and have them paint the car with a top and clear coat?

    60 to a 100 PSI based on how you like to spray but do a couple of tests first on like card board you want a 6 in fan for best coverage.

    The easiest paint to use and still comes out beautiful is one stage polyurethane
    One stage is no clear coat but lots of sanding and buffing clear coat finishes i don't recomend for the beginners. One stage goes right over sanded primer and will the the last coat so after the one stage you will sand it to 1000 finish and then you will compound (buffer) the 1000 to a mirror finish with special grit liquid.
    LOOKS amazing and better than a factory paint job (NO ORANGE PEEL FEEL)

    By metallic i guess you mean flakes and no Flakes arent hard at all its all the same inless you have to add it yourselve in that case you just have to make sure you its all even.

    All sand paper is relatively the same but if you buy cheaper paper it wont have the same characteristics ass like 3M for instance but to be safe that all grits are the same its more expensive i would say definatly go for 3M

    any primer will work fine i sugest getting a nice primer because weather or not you know it and i found out later after painting mine the PRIMER JOB IS IS EVERYTHING all imperfections and flaws that don't look perfect in the primer coat are going to show up in the base coat.

    I highly recommend using all Polyurethane system primer and base coat don't mix systems
    MAaCo sucks they give you back a car that looks like and orange most of the time but i have seen an alright job there but you have to pay more than their base job.
    The reason they do a bad job is because they don't sand it well quality is in the sanding the layer of paint on top of the next one will effect the next.
     
  4. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    thanks
    i might look for a compressor like airjockie bought not too long ago....

    it seems cheaper just to pay 800-1.4k for a shop...but i dont want to get screwed
     
  5. hcivic.com

    hcivic.com Senior Member

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    1:basicly run no smaller than a 3/8 air line with 1/4 fittings and 25' feet long,
    then with the wall regulator set at 30-40 psi, you will end up with 20-30 at the gun base, and will finish with 10psi at the cap (the tip)
    2:buy the compressor, its a 200-300$ investment, you will love having air tools

    3: good brand good line I have 2 of the new finishline2 and I love them.

    4:3m is a good line and really dosn't cost alot, rember to get wet/dry

    5:primer go to a supply shop and get the house brand, for clear just get the house brand aswell ( make sure its all compatable)

    6:metalics reflect more light, and cost more. Harder to spray alittle not to bad

    7:see 2

    8:no you get what you pay for and macooo sucks balls
     
  6. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    ive been thinking about this all week....i see so many bull shit guns, and compressors....sooo many details.....so much info, i'm going nuts reading all these techniques and what not...and some of my friends are telling me not to waste the cash on a DIY....i have the tendancy to stop projects short sometimes....lol


    so i am going to call my friends dad and ask him if i buy all the supplies,
    if i could use the shop he works at....so he can show me the ropes....that way i can see if i really want to spend my $$$ on a compressor and paint guns... and all that stufff....
     
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