thinking about getting a 98+ firebird

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erebunicrx

my name is Dale
yeah i kinda want to sell all my hinda shit and bike and get a 98 or newer firebird, transam or firehawk. going on ls1 tech is no help b/c they think they are gods. anyone know anything about these cars or what to look for? something about a sub 100k mile car for under $15,000 be reliable, ac, leather and power everything and still run 12's. idk just crossed my mind lmk what you guys think
 
The only things with LS1's to look for are cooling issues... And if you ever have to replace the motor, you lift the car off of the motor, and wheel the entire subframe out of the car...

The engine bays are tight, but if you are just looking for something to do minor mods to, the LS1's are fairly reliable.
 
yeah, for now low 12's would be my goal. wow it must be nice full interior and fully loaded 12 sec car.
 
Low 12s in an LS1 F body fully loaded is a piece of cake.

By the way, there's a white 98 Formula convertible for sale right next to my house.
 
I believe they put out around mid 2's to the wheels stock...

LOW 12's on slicks isn't too hard.. XPipe, Headers, SLP Box, chip, exhaust, and probably a clutch on slicks would probably get you there... Maybe an FPR too...

If you want reliability, Make sure you stay on top of the fluids, make sure the radiator is tip top, ditch the DexCool (Make sure you get EVERY DROP OUT), and run good coolant with Water Wetter.

Are you planning on driving this year round? Or having a beater?
 
Quoted post[/post]]What do these run stock for power figures??
325hp 350tq in a 3500lb car.

cant turn for shit but there are a few around me that STOCK run high 12s the big kids run low 11s on their daily driven street cars.

there is a kid and by kid I do mean 17 right now that with gears, air box, and catback is running consistent 12.24s
 
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I believe they put out around mid 2's to the wheels stock...

LOW 12's on slicks isn't too hard.. XPipe, Headers, SLP Box, chip, exhaust, and probably a clutch on slicks would probably get you there... Maybe an FPR too...

If you want reliability, Make sure you stay on top of the fluids, make sure the radiator is tip top, ditch the DexCool (Make sure you get EVERY DROP OUT), and run good coolant with Water Wetter.

Are you planning on driving this year round? Or having a beater?

Those mods and slicks 50% of the time you'll end up breaking your rear end dragging it down the track. There are a few people who've gotten away with DRs on stock gears though.

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Quoted post[/post]]What do these run stock for power figures??
325hp 350tq in a 3500lb car.

cant turn for shit but there are a few around me that STOCK run high 12s the big kids run low 11s on their daily driven street cars.

there is a kid and by kid I do mean 17 right now that with gears, air box, and catback is running consistent 12.24s

98-00 had 305 01-02 had 310 for the Z/TA. 310 to 325 for the SS/WS6. Even though that really doesn't matter, because LS1s are notorious for being underrated by GM anyway. A base C5 will dyno close to the same as the rest of the LS1 models as far as rwhp/tq.
 
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Low 12s in an LS1 F body fully loaded is a piece of cake.

no shit, just get a WS-6 and do some bolt ons, those things are sexy.

but be warned, my friend did that and he was still getting beat down by modded SRT-4's, he didn't like to talk about it :laugh:


yeah i hear that. but compare the 2 cars. i would say its still a neon lol.
 
I've got one with an LS1...needs bodywork

$3800


Picture035.jpg
 
im looking for one with a ws6 package. but good lookin thanks. if you come up with something that dosn't need work lmk

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for the love of god why?????????????/


like i said fast fully loaded. im sure you can understand that. from a gutted hatch to a sti. me a gutted hatch to a.... im not 100% positive but i would need to sell everthing with hondas and my bike. still way up in the air
 
My friend who has a very modded WRX got pwnt by a WS6 last weekend. I was in the car and we got our shit handed to us.

You can't mess with torque.

As for SRT-4's...a new kid in our club is having fun beating on WRXs with a Stage 1 upgrade and nothing else. Guys with a $24k car with $5k in mods are being beat by a $14k used SRT-4 with $600 worth of mods.
 
eg hatch stock gsr swap turbo kit slicks, 11's but its not the point. reliablity and options.
 
Quoted post[/post]]for the love of god why?????????????
You drive an STi...... I could ask you the same question.

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I'll build someone a 12 sec car for $4k..including the cost of the car.
Used 87 Crustang + rebuild + a 250 shot of N20 . . . it'll do 12's once, after that i make no promises.
1988 LX 5.0 = $700
gutted and scrapped = free
replace few things = $120
"Cage" = $300
N20 = $350
I/H/E = $600
"slicks" = 12 pack of Bud.

on the motor the car ran a 12.6, 12.5, 12.3

on the 300 shot N20..... 11.1 and the transmission "died" at the 1000ft mark.
 
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