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This is for all the swap dudes/dudettes out there!

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by H22ATUNR, Aug 5, 2003.

  1. H22ATUNR

    H22ATUNR Junior Member

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    Allright experts, I have some questions like we all did at some time in our life, and need some answers as well. You might take a read on what I have to ask and say to yourself; "Same ol' H22 freak.... Don't you know you're gonna break your axles in a day?" or maybe, "Just get a frikin B16 and get over with!"...

    So... I've made my mind up, and purchased my 92-96 BB4 H22A1 for $2000 USD w/tax. That's right, WITH TAX. I just could'nt resist. Now, the engine is going to arrive in a "wooden-palletized" form, which means the tranny is supported with strong-ties to the pallet, including the block. (By the way, the fucker is supposed to weigh about 850lbs w/pallet.) :ph34r: Now,

    Question#1: What is the first step in doing a swap like this? To get my Hassport mounts together and know that they're there, and proceed with fitting the engine no probs or deal with the shift linkage and do the cutting/welding first since the mid console is longer than the civic mid-console???

    Question#2: When the swap is done, the exhaust manifold (Headers) will be gulping up most of the space up front where the radiator and the AC fan usually is. I already made my mind up to get rid of the AC, but of course not; the radiator. Is there a custom radiator out there that I can purchase to fit the radiator somewhere else, or can I proceed with using my stock D16Z6 radiator, although it's a small-ass radiator capable of cooling down only a 1.6L?

    Question#3: As with every swap out there, swapping an engine is NOT easy as it may seem, so it takes a lot of time and patience, ACKNOWLEDGED. Especially when it comes down to AXXXXLESSSS! Now I know that the H22A is the HULK HOGAN of all the Honda Engines out there; (excluding NSX powerplant) , so the MO-FO is gonna be like, "Damn, what a fucked up bed, I was better off with my KING size bed" and lay all of it's shiznit all over my poor EG. My front is going to angle down with stock suspension/springs, about 20 degrees. Is there ANY way I can get stiffer shocks or highering-springs to balance it out, to make it look like what it's supposed to, or no??? As far as it goes with axles snappa-crackin', Is there any way i can weld a piece of metal to support the engine block so it does'nt put it's heavy ASS on my poor axles, or no? (I'm sure there is, but... thought I would ask :p )

    Question#4: ECU. Now I know there is the OBD1 & OBD2 out there, which I don't know the EXACT difference, although I have an idea. I heard that there is a harness kit which actually lets you connect your stock shit to straight H22 ECU. Is that possible, or do I still have to use the H22 ECU??

    Question#5: After the ECU problem is done, how exactly am I suppose to modify my gauges?? Do I have to give up my stock gauge pod and get an aftermarket digital one, or can still use my stock with 6800 rpm limiter gauges??(cause i know i can climb up to 7500 rpm after hulk hogan takes place)

    Question#6: What the hell is up with the LSD controversy? Some people are telling me stuff like this ---> "Dude, you're gonna fishtail in first gear, so don't redline in 1st gear, but continue redlining starting in 2nd gear" if this is the case, why the hell am I doing the swap????

    Question#7: I think that's about it. Please help me guys! If there is anything more I should know, or simply forgot to mention in my questions, please point them out, as it will be really helpfull. I know that the Honda Tuning magazine had a part 1 and a part 2 for their "H22 into EG swap", but never came out with the 3rd part, and I simply can't wait. So please, to the best of your knowledge guys, girls, technicians, the ones who drink synthetic instead of water, the ones who hug valve covers instead of their faggy-teddy bears... PLEASE HELP. Thank you...

    Enough said, I'm afraid of getting banned.

    Sincerely,
    Ed
     
  2. word

    word Senior Member

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    I did a lot of research on this swap because I was going to do it for the straight line fast car but decided against it, I like carving curves.

    but your answers.

    1. shift linkage: With the Hasport kit, there'll be no cutting/welding required, you can get a older accord shiftlinkage (90-93 i think?)

    2. your radiator should be fine, unless you wanna get one just to be safe get a dual core oem radiator (100 bucks from autozone), fluidyne etc. the h22a header will clear the radiator but I doubt the AC will.

    3. if you get stiffer adjustable coilovers you can make it "look" normal, but the weight distribution will still be fuked. YOU ARE READING A LOT OF STUFF BY PEOPLE WHO DON'T DRIVE h22a civics, thats just their opinions. you can get custom axles, or you can get older accord half shaft and older integra (DA) axles, both 90-93 i think i don't know the exact years.

    4. you can use your stock wiring harness, depending on which year it is it might be already wired for vtec. get a obd1 h22a to save yourself some trouble, and use an obd1 ecu. I recommend an integra ecu.

    5. use your stock gauges, you can ADD a VAFC or a rev/speed meter on top of your stocks but you don't have to.

    6. tell yourfriend to shut the hell up, he doesn't know what the hell he's talking about. Go look up what LSDs do. Mind you most Hondas don't come with a LSD stock. You can always add one later on.

    7. basically this swap is just a little more difficult because it requires some non-honda parts. Hasport/place racing make special parts just for this swap, such as the shift linkage, axles, mounts. There are a lot of faqs out there from people who's ACTUALLY DONE it.

    google.com

    welcome to HS.
     
  3. H22ATUNR

    H22ATUNR Junior Member

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    Thanks a lot for the follow-up, word. I really appreciate your help on this matter. Now there is one last thing. Just like anything is possible, there has GOT to be a way to make the car corner the way you want, even after the H22 swap. I was wondering if you have made any research in that as well, because like they say... Anything is possible. B)

    Thanks Again,
    ED
     
  4. E_SolSi

    E_SolSi Member of the 20 nut club Moderator VIP

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    depends how you want it to corner
    do you want it to be fine for normal daily driving... or are you dreaming of autocrossing, road coursing, or corner carving with it?

    if you just want a car that can be driven around town fine then youll be all set with simply putting stiffer spring rates up front to accomodate the added weight..... if you want to autoX, road course, or carve corners with it, keep dreaming there really isnt much of anything that can be done to make it handle that well... its not simply the added weight that is the big deal, its WHERE the weight is, the H22 puts a lot more weight in front of the axles, this makes the car more nose heavy (more understeer, or "plow")... CF hoods dont remove enough weight in front of the axles to help out much with the fucked up weight distribution.... relocating the battery to the rear is little to no help, the battery is already behind the axles... CF fenders are a joke, they dont save much weight and just like the hood they remove very little weight from in front of the axles... anything you do will help a little but the car is basicly doomed to have the cornering ability of a mid-90's ford taurus (fine for normal driving, but its gunna suck ass at anything that requires high cornering ability)
     
  5. liquid00meth

    liquid00meth Senior Member

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    :werd: do everything you can to stiffen/ enhance your suspension. ALL possible bars, strut, tie, sway, get an adjustable suspension system, make it ride even, and jack the stiffness way up in the front. Also be sure to take all possible measures to eliminate subframe tear (mount bushings/tie bars). It won't be as nimble in the turns as a lighter engined cousin, but it will certainly be as good as it possibly can.
     
  6. ricer1129

    ricer1129 Junior Member

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    wwwwwwwwwwwwooooooooooooooooooorrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrddddddddddddddto the h22 god's............................praise to a brotha.... :werd:
     
  7. ohmstable

    ohmstable Senior Member

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    I just finished my JDM H22 swap into a 92 hatch couple of weeks ago. I used HCP mounts with 93 accord intermediate and 93 integra driveshaft. I installed the prelude cable shiftlinkage and left the d16z6 rad. Although the shroud on the radiator had to be cut so that it would clear the clutch bleed valve on the tranny. I'm using a chipped P28 with H22 fuel/ign maps because the P13 gave me too many problems. The P28 doesn't run the secondary intake runners so that's the only drawback. The suspension is currently stock. I was going to put integra springs in the front but haven't yet. It definetly can't take corners like my lowered CRX but it's good enough as a daily driver. There was no space for AC or PS so that sucks. Make sure do the timing belt, water pump and clutch before you put it in!! I learned my lesson and had to pull the shit out again.

    Here's a couple of pics of my install.. I've got more if interested.


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