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Track/DD build list (Opinions/suggestions?)

Discussion in 'Civic and del Sol - EG and EK' started by SolDriver, Nov 19, 2007.

  1. SolDriver

    SolDriver New Member

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    Ok, after much reading, bugging people and asking stupid newb questions, I've come up with the following:

    Original auto - 1995 Del Sol Si, D16z, 110k miles, 5 spd.

    Intentions - Semi DD, car meets, track through HPDE3, and then I'll reassess whether I want to get a full time track car. I will be doing things like replacing carpet, adding dynomat, and other interior/exterior bling type things.

    Build list:
    B18C (GSR) full swap, Hmotors
    ACT HDSS clutch
    Exedy Flywheel
    Short throw shifter
    DC Sports 4-2-1 header (Steel? Ceramic?)
    2.5" cat - Bosal
    Tanabe Hyper Medallion catback exhaust
    Hawk HP+ brake pads (Front)
    Hawk HPS brake pads (Rear)
    New Rotors (Autozone)
    Earls SS brake lines
    KSport pro control damper system (coilover shocks)
    5Zigen ProRacer GN+ wheels
    Megan Racing upper strut bar (Front)
    CF Hood
    One of the more subdued front bumpers (Mugen style), side skirts, rear lip
    Paint job
    Race seats/harnesses
    Chip mod/tune

    Tires will start out as Dunlap DZ101, 205's.

    I've already got the brake pads/rotors/lines, and I'm getting some good deals on the KSports and 5Zigens ($400 for each), I'll get those in early Dec. I'll be removing the power steering (Not a complete rack swap, but the tie-off method described on H-T.), but leaving in the AC (Phoenix).

    Other options: LSD, rear wing (Although the wing is iffy, I want the front to come down not the back), and possibly a mild engine build down the line. Also possibly removing the driver SRS and replacing the steering wheel, but I need to check the legality of that for the street.

    Opinions/suggestions/flames?

    Also for norcalgsr or other knowledgeable people- If I went with higher compression pistons, do I need to replace the rods also? What type would you recommend? Also, what cams would you recommend if I changed those out?

    John
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2007
  2. norcalgsr

    norcalgsr Honda Master Technician

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    List looks good.. I don't think I would change much of anything. You may want to run a 4-1 header if you get different cams & pistons so I would decide that before you purchase them.

    You should be fine with the stock rods unless you're planning to run a lot of boost later or something of that nature. If you are going to raise the compression you will want to definitely run more aggressive cams to take advantage of that, but you need to determine what compression ratio you're going to have before you can buy the right cams to match. You can upgrade to ITR/CTR pistons and then run CTR or Skunk stage 1/2 cams and make quite a bit of power with that engine with tuning. Make sure you also get a set of adjustable cam gears to be able extract more power when tuning.

    Also, since you're going to run a 2.5" cat, cut the collector off the DC header and have a 2.5" collector welded on in its place so you don't bottleneck the exhaust system there. Or you could buy the DC JDM ITR copy header, but I don't know how well it would fit in the Sol clearance wise.
     
  3. SolDriver

    SolDriver New Member

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    That's what I was thinking about was the pistons and the cams. I just didn't know what type to get, since I don't know how to figure out how it would change the compression.

    I'll probably go with the 4-1 header to start with, since I do want to do the mild build later on, or possibly just wait and do it all at once. It looks like the pistons would be ~ 180, the skunk stage 2 cams about 300-600 depending on ebay, and cam gears ~ 180.

    Thanks for the feedback. Always good to know you're going down the right track...hehe, I said track, I crack myself up! :huh:

    John
     
  4. norcalgsr

    norcalgsr Honda Master Technician

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    Most of the aftermarket pistons will tell you where they should put the compression as well if you want to run higher than that. It really all depends on how much money you want to spend, as making a lot of power N/A gets very expensive quickly. In addition, if you're going to use the car as a daily driver as well, if you go too aggressive with the cams & compression it will start to compromise your idle characteristics and you may not be able to run pump gas after a certain point. However tuning makes up for a lot of those problems too.

    You can always install the engine stock at first, and then save up to buy your other parts (pistons and cams) and put them in later too. With the rest of the mods you're planning on installing that GSR engine should make a huge difference right off the bat in your Sol.

    In case you didn't factor this into your budget too, you should definitely plan on replacing the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner on the B18 before you put it in the car as well. I would also change most of the seals and gaskets while it's out of the car as well just because it makes it 10x easier that way.
     
  5. SolDriver

    SolDriver New Member

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    Yeah, I'm going to just install it stock to start. I've got a quote of $3300 shipped to my door, and a friend to help me put it in. I'll hit up the belt/tensioner/pump beforehand too. I'll just get the 4-1 header in anticipation of the build on down the line.

    Thanks for your help!

    John
     
  6. SolDriver

    SolDriver New Member

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    Anyone know the legalities of removing the drivers side SRS from a 95 vehicle? That's before it became federally mandated, but...I still want the auto to be street legal.
     
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