trouble with b16a2 in 97 civic ex

hey people, so here's the dilemma...
bought a 1997 ex coupe w/ b16a2 (2000 si engine). Builder says it needs IACV changed bc top speed was 85 mph, retarded slow acceleration, and cold starts required a little gas pedal action. After switching out IACV, the cold start issue was solved, but it still runs like crap. Also, i noticed ecu was p72, from the 96-98 GSR.... He says the car would need said harness and ecu to function.... i guess he did not know about ecu conversion wire harness from boomslang.... but i called boomslang asking about this situation, and the guy from there said the swap would work in my case, and not have such crappy results. He suggested it might be a bad connection with the harness; it could as well be other things going wrong. Any ideas? any help would be much appreciated. The builder says he doesn't know what could be wrong, given it was working fine before the IACV went out...

 

Im sure a b16 would run like shit on gsr fuel and ignition maps. If I were you I would get a jumper harness to convert to obd1. It is a way better setup then staying obd2 for many reasons. I dont feel like explaining it all right now, but trust me. Get a jumper harness to convert to obd1 and get a obd1 p30 ecu and you will be all set. I bet the car will run 100 times better.

 

Because it is an sir2 it does not have that crank fluctuation sensor which obd2 motors look for. That could cause you problems. The engine will run like crap on a gsr ecu, trust i tries, but it will run and even rip vtec without he cfs but it won't run like a factory motor.

 

Thats why I suggest you convert to obd1 then you dont have to worry about the CFS or the secondary o2 because it doesnt use them. Plus it is a way better setup trust me.

 

The obd1 conversion is not neccesary, there is a fix for the crank fluctuation senson which allows you to use an obd2 ecu without adding the sensor. I will try to find it, but i can't promise. Anyways i think the gsr only uses one o2 sensor and so if you run this ecu with the cfs fix you can run cel free.

 

try this and get back to me
This article describes how to trick a U.S. OBD2a or OBD2b ecu into thinking a CKF sensor is wired in when there actually is no CKF sensor on the engine.

What is the CKF sensor?
The CKF is the Crank Fluctuation Sensor.
On all 96+ (OBD2) Honda/Acura vehicles, this sensor is integrated onto the oil pump.
(CKF images soon)

This trick is mainly aimed to help hybriders who are using a U.S. OBD2a/b ecu in their vehicle, but their motors are lacking a CKF sensor. For example, running an JDM OBD2 engine in a US 96+ vehicle but retaining the US OBD2 ecu. For those that don't know, when using a US OBD2 ecu and the CKF sensor is not wired in, the engine runs like total crap. This trick basically taps the CKF into the CKP signal.

This wire trick will save you money (around $300) and headaches!


PROCEDURE

1. Please refer to the ecu pin out page respective to your OBD2 type and take note of the CKF pin locations:
   OBD2a pin out schematics
   OBD2b pin out schematics
2. Get 4 Scotch-lock/tap splicers
   Sometimes dubbed 'quick splice', these can be real life savers.
   Get yourself 2 of these bad boys and a pair of pliers for the squeezing-splicing portion of the job.
   
   
3. Locate ECU pins
   
   OBD2a Users:
   This mod requires you to quick splice a total of 4 wires (2 wires per quick splice).
   Locate the blue ecu plug "C":
   
   Now locate pinout C1 (CKFP) and C4 (CYPP) ; using the pliers quick-splice these two wires together as shown:
   
   Then locate pin C11 (CKFM) and C14 (CYPM) and quick-splice these two wires together as shown:
   
   That's it!
   Your finished OBD2a quick-splice job should look something like this:
   
   
   OBD2b Users:
   This mod requires you to quick splice a total of 4 wires (2 wires per quick splice).
   Locate the blue ecu plug "C":
   
   Now locate pinout C22 (CKFP) and C29 (CYPP) ; using the pliers quick-splice these two wires together as shown:
   
   Then locate pin C30 (CYPM) and C31 (CKFM); quick-splice these two wires together as shown:
   
   That's it!
   Your finished OBD2b quick-splice job should look something like this:
   

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

 

so with this splice trick, basically
1) turn off car
2) splice
3) remove negative battery cable
4) replace negative battery cable
5) turn on, drive around

did that. but it still ran like crap....what do i need to convert to obd1?

 

Converting to obd1 is as simple as buying the appropriate jumper harness and buying a obd1 ecu. That is all you need to do. You dont have to fuck with any wiring period. Check this website to get the right harness they have good prices and fast shipping. Rywire - Online Store

 

any recommended ecu's? is there a balance between price and performance? the wire harness is the easy part. just need a lil more guidance

 

this is what it looks like...confirmed by honda-tech.com that ecu is "96 Acura Integra GSR 2 5-speed" (2 meaning obd2?).











same stuff, just diff. poses.

oh yeah, wtf...

 

called Peter from Rywire.com... said its best to get original harness (96-98 ex manual) and use p72 ecu

 

im doing a swap on the same year, i was told to just get the oBD2a to OBD2b conversion and run a p2t civic si ecu