troubleshooting my swap

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N1Outkast

Junior Member
I just swapped my 95 del sol si with the d16 vtec which is obd1, with an obd1 gsr engine. The wires plugged straight in obviously. I have not yet run the knock sensor, evap purge solenoid, and secondary intake solenoid to the ecu. I know those must be run in order for the car to run correctly but many say the car will still start without those. My car turns over but will not start. My question is will it start up without those wires and do i have more problems than just that or should that be a good reason why the car wont start. I'm trying to figure out what i hvae to look forward to. everything has gone smooth, don't want anything to go wrong
 
run those wires first. It will probally start but it will run like crap and make for a very hard start.
 
neither of those 3 sensors will effect how the car runs at idle. the knock may cut some timing, but it will still idel fine, just a little "off"

you have some bigger issues going on.

things to check-

-spark plugs are actually in the motor. sounds dumb, but there have been cases where peoplehave put plug wires into the cyl with no plug. lol
-firing order on the dist is correct
- the ecu is plugged in and works. if it came with your motor, try your stock p28 computer form the sol. it will also fire the car. if when you swap the ecu it still doesn't start, you know its not the ecu (at least not yet)
- starter. its very easy to forget to run the power lead from the battery to the starter. i did it. also check the ground just below it form the tranny to the frame. this one is the most important ground on the car.
- gas. another obvious one, but make sure you have gas in the tank, the fuse for your ecu/fuel pump ( a 15a fuse under the hood) isn't popped, and also check your feed lines and your return line.
- timing. this sounds like its a problem. did you do the timing belt or anything before you put it in? make sure the distributor isn't knocked forward or back... right in the middle is right about where you want to be. if you can't get it over to check the timing with a timing light, its kinda hard to get a real reading.
- compression. use a 19mm socket and turn the motor over by hand with the crank pulley (will need to be jacked up) if you have little resistence, i'd be concerned that your compression is shot. next step would be to get a compression tester tool and use an air compressor to fill the cyls and get a reading. a bone stock gsr should be in the 230-ish range all across the board.
 
thanks for all the helpful info guys i've checked most...if it's not those wires then it's either the timing or compression... I did change the timing belt and i believe put it back on correctly but i could be wrong because the cam gears did spin and i had to rea align them. but like i said i thought it was right... thanks again
 
quick check, is to make sure the up arrows on the cam gears match the TDB line on the crank pulley.

if they don't there's your problem.

if its off by a lot, checking for bent valves is your next step :(
 
check your distributor that was my case when I did the GSR swap. My timing was on point plugs were new, soon as I replaced the dizzy its start up everytime since
 
Originally posted by stivic@Dec 10 2004, 06:34 PM
check your distributor that was my case when I did the GSR swap. My timing was on point plugs were new, soon as I replaced the dizzy its start up everytime since
[post=430206]Quoted post[/post]​


Take off the cap and rotor make sure its clean and everything inside, I have a tester to see if power is going to the ignitor which is a little rectangle almost like a little ecu chip, its got 2 plugs on it I believe make sure thats plugged in and everything
 
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