Tuning Questions

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

After all of this I'm concidering just paying the damn $350 and get it done professionally.
 
That's also a good option.

Think, "you can tune a man's car and it's good for now, or you can teach a man to tune and he'll make it good forever"

lol

I wanna learn to tune myself. If you think business, and you learn well, you can recoop the cost of parts by tuning other people's hondas.
 
That's also a good option.

Think, "you can tune a man's car and it's good for now, or you can teach a man to tune and he'll make it good forever".
That is true but if I be patent and figure out exactly where I want to go with my car, I/H/E, cam, ect, I can just get one tune and be good to go.

If you think business, and you learn well, you can recoop the cost of parts by tuning other people's hondas .
That also is true, all the money I've put into my car has been made by selling EF parts.
 
You don't want to tune with the absence of parts that you plan on putting on. That defeats the purpose of the tune. But yes if you say your done with I/H/E, get all that on, then pay for 1 tune and ur all done, that works.
 
Like 'boostin' said, you will have to burn a chip. Unless however you want to rely on your laptop to keep your car running lol. Windows is not stable enough for that (to me). But you can tune and datalog with the moates ostrich 2.0 system. Once you dial in your tune, you then want to save the tuning settings in a file on your PC, then burn a chip. Otherwise those settings dont stick in your ecu, and the emulation would always need to be running. Hopefully you get what i'm saying.

The LC1 is just a wideband controller like the one from PLX devices. Pick either, but your tuner may already have a wideband o2 setup and can save you some money.
Well the guy I bought my ECU off of put a basemap on it already so I kust have to tune it.

But I will tune it after I rebuild it and what ever else I want to do.

I might even have to get another basemap.
 
I'm still a bit confused on the Ostrich and Hulog/Hondalog things.

What does the Ostrich do?

The Hulog/Hondalog connects a laptop to the ECU for real time tuning right?

I only have Crome not Crome Pro. Moates.net says just Crome will do the job though.

I also appreceate all the help thank you guys!!
 
A basemap is only intended to be a logical starting point for the tuner. It's not at all meant to be driven on. Just so you know.

PGMFI has/had stock maps for all motors. Their website hardly works anymore. But the .bin files are still out there.
 
I'm still a bit confused on the Ostrich and Hulog/Hondalog things.

What does the Ostrich do?

The Hulog/Hondalog connects a laptop to the ECU for real time tuning right?

I only have Crome not Crome Pro. Moates.net says just Crome will do the job though.

I also appreceate all the help thank you guys!!

The Ostrich emulates the chip in your ecu. The chip holds air/fuel and ignition timing tables as well as other things. So the Ostrich simulates this information in real time as per the settings in the program on your connected laptop (connected via ostrich).

The Hulog is for datalogging. This allows you to read the input of every sensor that your ecu reads. Great for diagnosing problems. Also allows you to view the air/fuel ratio and current running timing values so you can make adjustments.

Crome regular does not support data logging. Not sure if the Hulog has it's own software though. If it does it wouldn't matter. Crome pro I would assume has built in support for Hulog though. Again... I lack that experience.
 
I was fooling around with my "Crome regular" and it has some sort of support for Hulog, I don't what kind though.
 
CROME free does not support datalogging until you pay for the license

you need Real time emulation (ostrich) , and Hulog

datalogging and emulation is REQUIRED for tuning , it gives you exactly where you are standing on , Im not the best tuner in the world but I have CROME pretty much covered .

get AEM UEGO so you can use the output channel 5V so you can connect it to the ECU and have AFR readings under CROME , having that , you will have a better tuning , LC-1 has 5v output channel too !

for changing the map , if you use a presset from CROME (p28,p30) , always remove checksum routine and add datalogging to the ROM
 
... if you want to blow up.....

all motor should be in the upper 12's/low 13's under full load.
boost, high 11's, low 12's.


+1


N/A = 13.5
Boosted = 12.5

at high end should lower .5 points at least !
 
After I buy a Ostrich, Hulog, chip burner it will probably come to over $350 so I'll probably do the right thing and get it professionally done.
 
After I buy a Ostrich, Hulog, chip burner it will probably come to over $350 so I'll probably do the right thing and get it professionally done.

The only problem would be when you make a change on your car , and you will need a new tune . if you get the stuff and you learn how to tune , you will not have to pay the rest of the tunes of your car everytime you make a change or upgrade something
 
Well I found a local guy that will do it for much cheaper and I'm sure he would change my tune for cheap if need be.
 
Back
Top