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Turbo or Nitrous?

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by mozzandherb, Dec 13, 2005.

  1. mozzandherb

    mozzandherb Senior Member

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    O.K something new has come up! I was reading somewhere that the H22 can hold nitrous pretty well compared to turbo, now is there any truth to that? Because what I'm looking for is a car that would hit 13's at the track and would be a good daily driver. I have the H22a in a 92 Accord mods are i,h,e, plus a few others. Now what would be the wisest choice? Turbo where I would have to re-sleeve ect ect. Or nitrous where I would change the rods and pistons? I guess I would also have to change the spark plugs and timing if I go nitrous as well right? Do you think I can hit 13's in the 1/4 with a 75 shot, with my setup? Also, about the timing I would have to retard it, but can I still drive it daily with having my timing like that? Does anyone know of any controller for the timing? Alot of questions I know, but I'm just trying to figure out what would be best for what I want 13's and a reliable dd and I think nitrous would be less of a hassle and cheaper than a decent turbo kit.
     
  2. mozzandherb

    mozzandherb Senior Member

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    Also, if I go nos should I change the pistons? What other internals should I change? Valves, retainers, rods?? Thanks
     
  3. drpenguin

    drpenguin Senior Member

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    im running a NX NXL system on my b16. honestly i went nitrous cause i had a turboed LS. Thing sucked gas like no tomorrow no matter what. With the nitrous you choose when you want that extra power. only problem is the cost of nitrous. I get about 7 to 10 shots of my 10lb bottle. Around here i pay 3.75 a lb. 37.50 adds up pretty quick if your out every week or everynight. Piston wise if your going all nitrous get nitrous pistons. if not get what your going for. Forged slugs are gonna be your best bet. make sure to get some ARP bolts.
     
  4. hotrex

    hotrex Senior Member

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    a higher compression nitrous motor is hard to beat on the street

    i am a fan f big boost though so turbo gets my vote
     
  5. mozzandherb

    mozzandherb Senior Member

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    If I get forged pistons then I would have to re-sleeve because FRM sleeves dont go well with forged pistons. If I get some nitrous pistons can I run those as a daily driver. Also what exactly are ARP bolts and where can I find them. Thanks
     
  6. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    i say keep the engine how it is... ...get the wet kit..colder plugs an EMS...and a nitrous controller.. ...then save$$$ and try not to use it too much on the stock block... when you have the cash saved sleeve the block and get a huge turbo...and you could keep the nitrous to spool the turbine
     
  7. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    the problem youre going to worry about is the con rod bolt and the ring lands...both of which nitrous could make worse. A stock H22 is not the best platform for extra power. I wouldnt worry too much about a wet 55 shot or so, that wont hurt too much.
     
  8. mozzandherb

    mozzandherb Senior Member

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    What about a 75 or 100 shot. Then would I have to get new rod bolts and ring lands. Are rod bolts just the rods. Sorry I dont know what the difference is.
     
  9. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    the ring lands are part of the piston. you would have to change pistons again, but the rod bolts can be changed without changing the pistons. You still have to tear down the engine for that though.
     
  10. drpenguin

    drpenguin Senior Member

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    i dont know much about h22 but if you have to resleeve for any foreged pistons then i dont think its worth it. that my 2c. anyways you could always go turbo/nitrous. a direct port shot and a t3/t4e oh yeah thats the stuff. if you built it right you would rise to a level other hondas that prowl the street can only dream off. Its alot of work to get the H22 into anything besides a accord. but if you do it and do it right. no one is gonna contest you. least thats how it would be around here
     
  11. [Freemantle]

    [Freemantle] Senior Member

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    For "Mild" nitrous:

    Get a Wet Kit
    Get and MSD timing unit (retards timing when Nitrous is armed)
    Run a step higher on your fuel pill (if you are running 50 shot nitrous, run 75 fuel).
    Run plugs 2 steps colder.

    For "Wild" nitrous, run all of the above with the following added.

    New Rods
    Heat-treated pistons or pistons with a heat rejection coating.
    Same level fuel pill, but run an ems with a toggleable map, ditch the MSD timing unit.
    Bottle Warmer (this shit really matters)
    Flywheel/Clutch

    Notes:

    You may want to run a window switch if you are afraid of having a little low speed "accident". It can (and has) saved many people's motors.

    "NOS buttons" are for people like Nicolas Cage and Paul Walker, who are comfortable with blowing the shit out of their engines on a regular basis. For regular folks like us, a WOT switch is fine.

    This is the opposite of turbocharging. You will have hellacious EGTs when on the bottle. Resistance is not your friend. A light flywheel and free-flowing exhaust are paramount. Spraying at low RPMs will kill you instantly (hence the window switch suggestion).

    I vote you go turbo. Every person who I've known on the bottle has moved up to a snail. I've never paid for nitrous myself, but I'd assume the made the switch for a reason.
     
  12. gettocrx

    gettocrx Member

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    Yup! I felt 50 shot on my boys LS before but " THERE'S NO FEELING LIKE BOOST!" That's why he switched to boost! SO... I say go with the turbo! Sooner or later you will!
     
  13. mozzandherb

    mozzandherb Senior Member

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    Thanks for the info. I think I will be adding nitrous and then maybe perhaps a turbo. By the way what is a "window switch". Also the Hondata s100 is something I'm looking at. It controls nitrous and the timing. Another noob question what do you mean by "fuel pill" 50 shot then 75 fuel? As far as the flywheel and exhaust that's not a problem.
     
  14. [Freemantle]

    [Freemantle] Senior Member

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    A window switch is a polar (on/off) switch that only closes it's circuit if a certian voltage is being fed to it.

    I.E. It's a switch you can set to only turn on @ certian RPM levels.

    Run your WOT switch through the window switch, and set the window switch to 3600-6500 rpms. This way you won't accidentaly spray at low engine speeds, and you won't spray if you mis-shift into a lower gear and peg up to/past your rev limit.

    And yes, I mean run a 75 shot fuel nozzle with a 50 shot nitrous nozzle. This seems like you'd run pig rich, but that's the way it's being done down here with great success.
     
  15. mozzandherb

    mozzandherb Senior Member

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    I will be upgrading my fuel system when I get the $$, but what about injectors, should I upgrade those??
     
  16. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    a lot of people use the window switch for low rpms as well, but those people are usually running boost. From what i understand (havent actually done it) N2O provides more air and higher CFMs allowing for quicker spool on your turbo. Im just reading on that one...no IRL experience. Makes sense...sorta.
     
  17. mozzandherb

    mozzandherb Senior Member

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    Would a progressive nitrous controller be a good thing to have if I go nitrous? There about $400 on ebay. There is also the Hondata s100 which can control nitrous and its cheaper and has more capability if I decide to boost in the future. Any opinions? Thanks
     
  18. [Freemantle]

    [Freemantle] Senior Member

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    How much horsepower are you hoping to achieve? We really haven't made that clear. You'll find a lot of Hondata haters on line. I've only touched it twice, and I really couldn't justify running it over Uberdata. I hear Neptune has great things for nitrous control, so it might be worth a look. Hondata is not as cheap as you think, and their copy-protection box is just another unneeded cod that's just waiting to jam up and break.
     
  19. mozzandherb

    mozzandherb Senior Member

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    It's hard to say how hp I'm looking for because I haven't had my car on the dyno yet, but with a 75 shot I guess I'm looking around 250 if that is at all possible, obviously I would like more but I'm not sure how much I can get with a 75 shot. If I build my motor, which I probably will considering I bought it at a warehouse and haven't done anything to the internals, but with a built motor which I hope can get done next year I want to be at about 300hp.
     
  20. jimboburgess

    jimboburgess Go fast, Go Cheap

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    Go for turbo, in the long run it will be the better choice.
    Dollar to performance ratio they work out about the same, considering refilling N2o.
    The turbo will put you at 250 whp fairly easily.
     
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