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Turbo'ed D16Z6 getting too hot

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by reckedracing, Jul 18, 2006.

  1. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    need advice and opinions

    whats some common causes of a turbo'ed car running too hot?
    it usually does fine temp wise but when i start hitting hills the temp starts climbing

    right now i have a decently large radiator, spal fan, water cooled turbo
    my turbo is close to the radiator but i'm not sure if that will cause this problem...

    advice? opinions?
     
  2. Turbo&Auto

    Turbo&Auto Nick Go FAST!!

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    Vehicle temp is getting hot? Or EGT's?

    I seen the guys on Muscle Car make a shroud for their fan on a car, they claim it makes it 15-20% cooler.
     
  3. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    too much ignition, not enough fuel...
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    thats what i was afraid of...
    i think i'm gonna have to put her to rest till i get my tuning shit...

    and i was refering to vehicle temp...
    i don't have an EGT gauge/thermo
     
  5. Turbo&Auto

    Turbo&Auto Nick Go FAST!!

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    You rly should invest in an EGT. A/F is good for refrence but more can be told from the EGT.

    Time to get the chipping kit and send me your ECU :p
     
  6. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    lol, can you do auto to manual conversion on a P28?
     
  7. Turbo&Auto

    Turbo&Auto Nick Go FAST!!

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    I can find the info and install the parts to convert it. I just have to search around PGMFI.org a lil bit for the info.
     
  8. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    how the hell were you maxing out your 450cc's?
    saturated 440's should be good for 310 hp...
    i'm trying to figure out if i should go 440's like i planned or bump it up to 525's
    here's my list so far... (see below)
    525 are 60 more, so $1054 or $1114
    but i can't see the stock D series crank holding more than 250ish hp? and i don't think i'm gonna be even close to that


    > XD-16 - $355 (matched to your local guy)
    > Socketed P28 - $165
    > $175 - ostrich
    > $85 - burn1
    > $25 (for 10 SST chips) some burnable chips
    > $219 - Precision 440cc High Impedence Injectors
    > $30 - Datalogging for ecu (USB or serial)
     
  9. Turbo&Auto

    Turbo&Auto Nick Go FAST!!

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    They held 10 psi fine, but when I tried 12 they were maxed. I want to run 14 at the track so the 550's were needed.

    Whats the XD-16?
     
  10. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    XD-16 is a wideband with a perty little gauge that displays digital A/F
     
  11. Turbo&Auto

    Turbo&Auto Nick Go FAST!!

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    OK, I use the PLX Widebands usually, they have the pretty gauge too :)
     
  12. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    how much was your PLX?
     
  13. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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  14. Turbo&Auto

    Turbo&Auto Nick Go FAST!!

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    The PLX is the same price as the one you mentioned Recked

    Pissed is right, everyone on PGMFI.org seems to like the Innovative Wideband. I've seen a few using the PLX. As long as it has a linear 5V out, your golden.
     
  15. TurboMirage

    TurboMirage YEEAAAHHH VIP

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    im an Innovate guy :) LM1 ftw!
     
  16. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    i'm not seeing any real diffrence between the LM1 and LC1 besides the LC1 doesn't come with the big doofy box...
    assuming i'm not concerned with portability is there any reason I should not go with the standalone kit being the LC1 with the XD16 gauge
     
  17. TurboMirage

    TurboMirage YEEAAAHHH VIP

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    the lm1 is also compatible with a usb>serial converter cable.
     
  18. MikeBergy

    MikeBergy Blah blah blah....

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    The lc-1 doesn't come with a guage or any way of getting output unless you hook it up to a laptop or separate gauge.

    I'll vouch for the LM-1. I love mine. The only problem I had was the solder points on the power supply receptacle on the box coming loose as a result of my poor mounting solution in my car, but they have since been resoldered and everything is working well.
    The lc-1 is also not a permanent mounting thing. You can hook it up the exact same way as the lm-1, you just have to have your own solution for logging the AFRs, which, if you are tuning with crome, you should be golden. Just run the 5V analog signal from the lc-1 to the oem o2 plug, turn off the o2 heater in crome, and you should be good to log in crome pro with a datalogging kit, which you should get if you plan to tune with crome.
     
  19. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    so you don't even need a serial or USB from the wideband to the computer?
    crome will datalog wideband figures straight from the car's ecu?
    good to know...
     
  20. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    so chris at xenocron is doubting the heat issue being related to ign/fuel

    one thing i remember though... i had a CEL for the ECT sensor...
    i think once I fixed that the overheating issues started
    now in theory a ECT sensor CEL would throw the car into open loop, or closed loop, which ever pulls timing and dumps fuel...
    i need to replicate the CEL and see if it helps my problem...

    yea or nay?
     
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