TYC Headlamps

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Xaero3953

Senior Member
Rest In Peace
From this forum, I've gathered that if your going to buy aftermarket headlamps, to go TYC or go home. I've been reading about TYC on their website, and they say not to use an HID setup.

Why not? Would it hurt anything (other than the warranty) if I do anyways? I already have an HID setup. I don't want to get rid of it and go back to halogen.

If I can't use them, does anybody know where I can get a set of projectors and still use my HID conversion?

All help is appreciated. :worthy:
 
it really depends on you bulbs k rating. you can use a 5 or 6k and you should be fine, but any higher your headlights will melt like butter in a microwave. its not recommened, but if you do it, just keep an eye on your lamp housings, they might get a little soft.

you could sell you hid's get regular halogens, and take that extra cash and get something nice for you car, just a thought. if you do, let us know how it turns out.
 
Quoted post[/post]]
From this forum, I've gathered that if your going to buy aftermarket headlamps, to go TYC or go home. I've been reading about TYC on their website, and they say not to use an HID setup.

Why not? Would it hurt anything (other than the warranty) if I do anyways? I already have an HID setup. I don't want to get rid of it and go back to halogen.

If I can't use them, does anybody know where I can get a set of projectors and still use my HID conversion?

All help is appreciated. :worthy:

I would honestly NOT use any HID conversion kits. There aren't many that really produce good results in a housing that's designed for a halogen bulb. An HID capsule can't emulate the light pattern put out by a heated filament, so you get all sorts of weird hot spots, unnecessary glare to oncoming traffic, and most of the time you still have to cut up something in the housing too. The proper way to run HIDs in a non-HID housing would be to mount an entire OEM HID system inside your headlight housing. The best way to do this would be to get an entire bi-xenon (high and low beam) HID projector set from an Audi/BMW/whatever, then mount the entire HID projector inside your headlight housing. With the complete OEM projector, you get the proper beam pattern, good cutoff, less glare, and still retain the ability to aim the entire assembly if you mount it up correctly. Sell your HID kit on eBay- you'll get enough money for it to almost buy (maybe more) a complete OEM bi-xenon projector system including ballasts and ignitors. Another plus for using OEM components is that you can just walk up to a dealer and buy D2R or D2S capsules. Sure, it's illegal for you to use them in your car- but at least the parts are legal. HID retrofits that are made to sit in OEM bulb locations (like H4 kits) are harder to find replacement capsules for because they're all custom jobs... and they're also harder to use/aim because of the problems stated above.

Quoted post[/post]]
it really depends on you bulbs k rating. you can use a 5 or 6k and you should be fine, but any higher your headlights will melt like butter in a microwave. its not recommened, but if you do it, just keep an eye on your lamp housings, they might get a little soft.

you could sell you hid's get regular halogens, and take that extra cash and get something nice for you car, just a thought. if you do, let us know how it turns out.

Incorrect.

The color temperature has nothing to do with the actual heat output of the bulb. The 5000/6000/whatever K rating describes just the color of the light emitted (or pretending to be emitted) by the bulb. A bulb that eats 55W of juice will put out about the same amount of heat as any other 55W bulb regardless of color temperature. In any case, 4100-4500K light is best for visibility in headlight setups where you're trying to go for pure white light. 5000-6000K is just going for looks.
 
Quoted post[/post]]
Quoted post[/post]]
From this forum, I've gathered that if your going to buy aftermarket headlamps, to go TYC or go home. I've been reading about TYC on their website, and they say not to use an HID setup.

Why not? Would it hurt anything (other than the warranty) if I do anyways? I already have an HID setup. I don't want to get rid of it and go back to halogen.

If I can't use them, does anybody know where I can get a set of projectors and still use my HID conversion?

All help is appreciated. :worthy:

I would honestly NOT use any HID conversion kits. There aren't many that really produce good results in a housing that's designed for a halogen bulb. An HID capsule can't emulate the light pattern put out by a heated filament, so you get all sorts of weird hot spots, unnecessary glare to oncoming traffic, and most of the time you still have to cut up something in the housing too. The proper way to run HIDs in a non-HID housing would be to mount an entire OEM HID system inside your headlight housing. The best way to do this would be to get an entire bi-xenon (high and low beam) HID projector set from an Audi/BMW/whatever, then mount the entire HID projector inside your headlight housing. With the complete OEM projector, you get the proper beam pattern, good cutoff, less glare, and still retain the ability to aim the entire assembly if you mount it up correctly. Sell your HID kit on eBay- you'll get enough money for it to almost buy (maybe more) a complete OEM bi-xenon projector system including ballasts and ignitors. Another plus for using OEM components is that you can just walk up to a dealer and buy D2R or D2S capsules. Sure, it's illegal for you to use them in your car- but at least the parts are legal. HID retrofits that are made to sit in OEM bulb locations (like H4 kits) are harder to find replacement capsules for because they're all custom jobs... and they're also harder to use/aim because of the problems stated above.

Quoted post[/post]]
it really depends on you bulbs k rating. you can use a 5 or 6k and you should be fine, but any higher your headlights will melt like butter in a microwave. its not recommened, but if you do it, just keep an eye on your lamp housings, they might get a little soft.

you could sell you hid's get regular halogens, and take that extra cash and get something nice for you car, just a thought. if you do, let us know how it turns out.

Incorrect.

The color temperature has nothing to do with the actual heat output of the bulb. The 5000/6000/whatever K rating describes just the color of the light emitted (or pretending to be emitted) by the bulb. A bulb that eats 55W of juice will put out about the same amount of heat as any other 55W bulb regardless of color temperature. In any case, 4100-4500K light is best for visibility in headlight setups where you're trying to go for pure white light. 5000-6000K is just going for looks.
Thanks, Cal. I'll try it and let ya'll know how it went. I appreciate all the help. :worthy:
 
[quote post='590163' date='Sep 29 2005, 02:30 PM' name='92dxhatch']
it really depends on you bulbs k rating. you can use a 5 or 6k and you should be fine, but any higher your headlights will melt like butter in a microwave. its not recommened, but if you do it, just keep an eye on your lamp housings, they might get a little soft.

you could sell you hid's get regular halogens, and take that extra cash and get something nice for you car, just a thought. if you do, let us know how it turns out.
[/quote]

Incorrect.

The color temperature has nothing to do with the actual heat output of the bulb. The 5000/6000/whatever K rating describes just the color of the light emitted (or pretending to be emitted) by the bulb. A bulb that eats 55W of juice will put out about the same amount of heat as any other 55W bulb regardless of color temperature. In any case, 4100-4500K light is best for visibility in headlight setups where you're trying to go for pure white light. 5000-6000K is just going for looks.
[/quote]

thanks for the correction, didn't think it was like that, but, i admit defeat lol
 
Have you ever seen what 65,000 volts does when it's improperly wired ? Holy shit. And no fuse in the world is gonna help you. A votlage fuse is actually a logic board.

I saw the HID mod for the ED Civic at a drift once, and while the result was awesome, it took this kid about 3 weeks to get it right. Also, the underside of his hood (Light baskets and all) were crispy and burned out. He said he whacked himself with the 65k volts once.

Looks risky.
 
If you have problems wiring up an HID setup for a simple headlight conversion, you have no business playing with ANY electronics in your car. Period. It's not difficult.
 
Quoted post[/post]]
If you have problems wiring up an HID setup for a simple headlight conversion, you have no business playing with ANY electronics in your car. Period. It's not difficult.


Just a quick question...? The phillips xenon hid kit is 35 watts is it not......not 55 watts like the oe counter part...??????
 
Yes, almost every HID setup out there is 35 watts. You can't compare a 35W arc discharge light source to a 55W incandescant light source.
 
You were making a point? I thought you were asking a question.
 
What about Halo lights, thy aren't projector are they? Basically i just want a new set of headlamps that look nice and clean. Could halo's work, or should i just get a new OEM set? I am keeping my HID sh*t. Ideas? Suggestions? Ricer comments (fags)?
 
i wouldn't trust hid's in any type of aftermarket headlap units except TYC or the oem units. don't waste money you don't have to. jst a thought
 
Quoted post[/post]]
What about Halo lights, thy aren't projector are they? Basically i just want a new set of headlamps that look nice and clean. Could halo's work, or should i just get a new OEM set? I am keeping my HID sh*t. Ideas? Suggestions? Ricer comments (fags)?

"halo lights" don't even hold up to halogen bulbs, I wouldn't trust them with HIDs.
 
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