Type R Camshafts (Finally found some!!)

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Okay...I found a picture that contradicts me. Look at the intake in the middle picture

EDIT: It says CTR and I thought they all said ITR.....Fail

rcams.jpg
 
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Lol I have that pic too. I just didn't post it because I thought the one I posted was the better picture lol.

LMA's are not a must. Don't listen to hear say. Listen to the people who actually have experience instead of people who have a 'friend' or know 'someone' who has done this or that... Anyway, I ran CTR cams in my B16 on the stock springs, retainers, and lost motion assemblies. I never had a problem. I ran/beat on this set up for over a year. But, I stayed with the stock redline. This is the key.

If you plan on reving out to where the cams stop making power, then I would advise getting springs and retainers. LMA's too if it gives you peace of mind.
 
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I want to rev to 8500rpm or so. I figured the LMA's may not be totally necessary. But I have "heard" these cams will make power to roughly 8400rpm
 
00+ itr intake cam (P73): 7.365mm lift, 191.52 degrees duration
CTR intake cam (PCT): 7.365mm lift, 193.45 degrees duration

This is for the vtec lobe. The small lobes are identical for both.
 
I am glad 'some guy' helped us out on the info lol. Oh well....now I need to get the stuff together and actually install these things.
 
Yea, thank the "dude" for checking with his "sources." :ph34r:
 
I am stoked for sure! :thumbsup:

Waiting on a friend to let me know what prices he has on springs, keepers and LMA's. LMA's are way expensive (roughly $300) and I want to rev to at least 8500rpm with no worries. I am pretty sure the camshafts will make power to 8400rpm with my B16A
 
I really dont think you NEED them, the B16 LMA's will work just fine. most people(I myself have done this) run stock B16a-B18c1 LMA's on way more aggressive cams.
 
How long did you run aggressive cams on the b16 lma's? There's a reason Honda gave the ITR much beefier lma's. Most n/a built honda's I've came across made lots of valve noise - likely due to worn lma's.
 
^^^ this is what I have heard. I have read that they LMA's will go out from high rev's or just wear and tear and it will sound like valve lash is way off when it isn't. Gonna hit my friend up to see if he found me any prices yet.

Anyone know much about the LMA's being re-designed to a spring type instead of a hydraulic type? Not sure if its true or bull crap. The thing I read expressed that Honda now sells the spring type if you replace.......???
 
I've seen the spring type replacements, one guy on here used them a while ago in his build.
 
How long did you run aggressive cams on the b16 lma's? There's a reason Honda gave the ITR much beefier lma's. Most n/a built honda's I've came across made lots of valve noise - likely due to worn lma's.

buddy of mine built(I helped) a LSV with 13:1 pistons and BC stage 3 cams 310°/308° duration and .496"/.496" lift. used BC springs and retainers with stock GSR LMA's (same as b16). engine ran great and surprisingly quiet.

its been about a year now that I moved from my mothers house so I dont know how its doing but if its still alive it will be close to 2 years.

Oh and I ran BC stage 2 cams on stock LMA's on a GSR for about a year with no problem.
 
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New replacement part number is 14820-PCB-305

I have been reading up on it and it seems the consensus is they are the same height as ITR's and seem to be the same as the OBD2 H22 spring type LMA but with the appropriate spacer (where guys usually just use a washer) They are about $23 a piece which is cheaper then ITR hydraulic type. And I read an article on H-T that a guy tested coil bind and they pretty much bottom out way lower then then Type R cams would put them in danger of. But I am still investigating.....I would love to not spend $270+ship/tax.
 
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look for them on hondapartsunlimited.com no sales tax for us because they are based out of state.

Plus I double checked with a fellow Builder and he said your stock LMA's should be fine unless they are noisy already.

Always keep LMA's in oil when your pulling the head and storing it. A lot of people make the mistake of not storing the LMA's in oil when storing the head.
 
They aren't super noisy now but I am worried I will kick myself for not changing them when I was all up inside the head

New style from your sourse is $178 + shipping. Although they have two prices for the same part #.....????
 
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I seen that sometimes too, I just choose the cheaper one. both are OEM.

Also remember to soak them in oil before you install em. make sure they get oil inside. if you dont you could destroy em on the start up.
 
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