A type R with skunk 2 cams or a brand that makes some for a type R, Some Pullies like Skunk 2 or a brand that makes some good ones, Re-sleeve it, Forged rods, some low compression pistons, aem intake, D.C. sports header or comtech, J.G. manifold or some one who makes a good one, a 100 shot of Nos WET not dry, Aem fuel rail, better fuel pump like holley or some who makes a good one, ACT or Clutch masteres Clutch, eight pound flywheel, Also forgot port and polish manifold, and Super AFC ,do you people think this will be an okay type R all motor setup or no? Tell me why if no, and what would you do better please?
Type R
- Thread starter shaun
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I was told you had to have a ,ow compression piston because type r compression is already high also does anyone know what type of power to the wheels with and without nos this setup might have? I was told about 230 without nos and 305 with nos is this true ? Also if I don't need a low compression piston I would get an forged one.
Umm, u may be digging yourself a hole here. Your knowledge of building a motor are not to the level of that type of motor that u want to build. Low compression pistons are generally used for turbo set-ups to handle the boost better, you on the other hand should stay closer to the compression ratio that the ITR motor offers. This will help you make more power and putting in a lower compression piston will rob power from you.
And the benefit to titanium valve train is to reduce mass and help you rev higher, while remaining Safe! Also much more $$what i would do...
the motor is pretty good already. do the basic upgrades, AEM cold air intake (hang on to the stock intake in case the weather is shitty), Comptech header, and like a spoon n1 axle-back exhaust (the stock b-pipe is already a bigger diameter)
As for the cams, Skunk2 are okey, but make sure that you upgrade the rest of your valvetrain just to be safe.
The head is already mildly ported and polished from the factory, so further modification is not really needed.
The same with the stock intake manifold
If you want to spend the money, by all means go for it.
If you want to upgrade the fuel system, do it but again for basic bolt-ons it isnt required.
ACT makes a great clutch, I have personally had one on my car for 70,000 miles of hard driving, I have broken axles, wheel studs, and mounts but the clutch held up great. it is just lately started slipping. if you dont mind the stiff pedal, it is definatly the way to go. Just keep an eye on the rod for your clutch master cylinder. the threads where it attaches to the pedal got worn and the clutch wouldnt engauge properly.
as far as NOS goes, you said that you wanted to go all motor... what is all motor about NOS???
hope this helps
the motor is pretty good already. do the basic upgrades, AEM cold air intake (hang on to the stock intake in case the weather is shitty), Comptech header, and like a spoon n1 axle-back exhaust (the stock b-pipe is already a bigger diameter)
As for the cams, Skunk2 are okey, but make sure that you upgrade the rest of your valvetrain just to be safe.
The head is already mildly ported and polished from the factory, so further modification is not really needed.
The same with the stock intake manifold
If you want to spend the money, by all means go for it.
If you want to upgrade the fuel system, do it but again for basic bolt-ons it isnt required.
ACT makes a great clutch, I have personally had one on my car for 70,000 miles of hard driving, I have broken axles, wheel studs, and mounts but the clutch held up great. it is just lately started slipping. if you dont mind the stiff pedal, it is definatly the way to go. Just keep an eye on the rod for your clutch master cylinder. the threads where it attaches to the pedal got worn and the clutch wouldnt engauge properly.
as far as NOS goes, you said that you wanted to go all motor... what is all motor about NOS???
hope this helps
sleeperls93
Senior Member
I bet you would be super happy with a type R motor, stock.... get that if you want, and take it from there...I suggest you do lot's of research befor you spend any money..... by the way, what do you have right now??
I have two civic's both 1996 two door models, one has a a type R just put in by my boy and the other has nothing in it cause I'm trying to figure out what would be the best motor to put in it , that's why I have been asking about a b20 vtec or a gsr ? I have been hearing so many different answers don't know what to do . So I 'm going to work out this type R thing for now, but I want 13 flat or 12.8 in 1/4 ,mile time at the track with the type R so Ii 'm trying to get a set up that will get me there without dropping compression and turboing or supercharging. The motor I hear and read isn't boost friendly, so I want to get about 230 to the wheels without nos and get a 100 shot to put me at or around 300 hp so I can get to 13 flat. My coupe is heavy so I need about 300 hp to get to 13 flat I have been told. I don't want 300hp and drive it everyday because to me that is too much but the only reason I got an Type R was because I was told it was a bad a$$ motor, but I need more power.
BrahmaBullSQ
Senior Member
The Type-R heads are already ported (along with the manifold) so throw that out. Personally... I don't like nitrous (correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't nitrous pretty much damage the pistons after each usage???).
I'd rather go with a turbo. 300hp from the Type-R is achievable through low boost if there is a good tuner in your area. Drop the compression and 300hp will be readily and safely available whenever you want it... and the only thing ya gotta refill is the gas tank.
Choice is yours. Good luck.
I'd rather go with a turbo. 300hp from the Type-R is achievable through low boost if there is a good tuner in your area. Drop the compression and 300hp will be readily and safely available whenever you want it... and the only thing ya gotta refill is the gas tank.
Choice is yours. Good luck.
streetrays
Member
ITR w/ lowered compression and Turbo should be a good choice.
streetrays
Member
or maybe higher revving ITR with upgraded valve train i.e. NA setup.
When you say drop compression will I need to get a thicker head gasket , low compression pistons , or what would I need to drop compression? The only reason I wanted nos was because it would be a cheap way to get to 300hp and I was told with a type R there is no reason to get it if you are going to turbo it. Correct me if I'm wrong but I was told that turbo in the summer is a bad ideal because you run a high risk of over heating?Also my boy has a geo prizm running and he is using spray and a super afc and his car has been running strong for about two years now. I was also told that if I get forged pistons , rods, re- sleeve ,and re- do value train , that nos would be fine, correct me if I'm wrong?
That doesn't mean there still isn't improvement to be made in terms of P&P, especially when you are changing the powerband with different cams/compression.
A head needs to be ported to YOUR specific powerband and HP goals.
N2O only damages pistons if you get detonation, which can happen with allmotor/fi just as easily.